Here'a another home made splitter

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JAL

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i like the spikes on the push plate.

did you make them yourself?

also, i noticed the pump being above the tank.....did you have to prime it before the first start up? there was a question about this in another thread.

the splitter looks great...nice job!!
 
mga said:
i like the spikes on the push plate.

did you make them yourself?

also, i noticed the pump being above the tank.....did you have to prime it before the first start up? there was a question about this in another thread.

the splitter looks great...nice job!!
Click to expand...

Yes I did I made the whole thing from scratch except the tank. The spikes are 1/2" cone tipped set screws and are replacable. I have had no problem priming the pump and it appraers to be self priming.
 
2FatGuys said:
Great job!

What are the springs behind the push plate for?
Click to expand...

I am not sure what the springs do. The reason they are there is because when I first mounted the cylinder to the beam I used just 9/16” bolts and torque them to 120 Ft/lbs. I then ran the cylinder in an out a few times to get hydraulic fluid in the cylinder. Then I attached the pusher to the cylinder rod and ran the cylinder rod in and out a few times and noted the pressure reading on the gauge. The pressure to extend the cylinder was about 125 psi and to retract the cylinder was about 300 psi with no load. Then I got to thinking a how regular cylinders are somewhat loose at the pusher to cylinder rod and from the back side of the cylinder to I bean support bracket. So I went out and got some longer bolts and some 400 lb compression springs and installed them thinking that this would give the cylinder a ‘loose” connection. I then ran the cylinder in and out again and the retract and extend pressures changed to 50 psi to extend and 200 psi to retract. I am not sure why the numbers changed like this and maybe after splitting a few cords of wood these numbers will change again. Wait an see I guess.
 
JAL said:
I am not sure what the springs do. The reason they are there is because when I first mounted the cylinder to the beam I used just 9/16” bolts and torque them to 120 Ft/lbs. I then ran the cylinder in an out a few times to get hydraulic fluid in the cylinder. Then I attached the pusher to the cylinder rod and ran the cylinder rod in and out a few times and noted the pressure reading on the gauge. The pressure to extend the cylinder was about 125 psi and to retract the cylinder was about 300 psi with no load. Then I got to thinking a how regular cylinders are somewhat loose at the pusher to cylinder rod and from the back side of the cylinder to I bean support bracket. So I went out and got some longer bolts and some 400 lb compression springs and installed them thinking that this would give the cylinder a ‘loose” connection. I then ran the cylinder in and out again and the retract and extend pressures changed to 50 psi to extend and 200 psi to retract. I am not sure why the numbers changed like this and maybe after splitting a few cords of wood these numbers will change again. Wait an see I guess.
Click to expand...

I suspect the cylinder rod or pusherplate is binding from misalignment. The springs allow things to move around a bit releasing some of the initial bind. I didn't see any support on the back of that cylinder. Support the back of the cyl and the pressure should drop some more.

Like your design BTW, great job !
 
Nice Job

I have a buddy that has been using a splitter of a similar design with the tubing instead of the I-beam but his is a 4x8 inch tube with a 3/8 wall and he welded the ends shut and it is used as the hydraulic tank.

Lazer
 
I've had nasty, knotty pieces "float" against the push plate until they shot out sideways at about a hundred miles an hour- I vote for the spikes.
 
Dave said:
I've had nasty, knotty pieces "float" against the push plate until they shot out sideways at about a hundred miles an hour- I vote for the spikes.
Click to expand...

Sometimes the wood that I split will slide off the pusher and pop out. Then I have to start the cycle again...wasting time. I tried it with and without the spikes and the spikes work better for me. Maybe it will not work for some else,don't know.
 
You guys need to understand that this is a custom splitter made for the way I process my firewood. I tried a number of different splitters and looked at all the different splitter designs and took the features that best suited what I do and made the splitter that was the best design for what I will use it for. There may be someone out there that this splitter design would be very awkward for them to use and someone may just hate it.

A good example is the wedge spreader wings. I made the a wedge wings a little bigger so the the split wood would fall to the side into a HD 2' x 4' wagon. This also eliminated the wood going off the end and hitting the trailer hitch and the need for a table on the end of the splitter. This works for me but it might not work for someone else.

I put a lot of thinking into this to make it easier for ME. "Different Strokes for Different Folks" I guess.View attachment 75846
 
Looks great.

I think the spikes look great. The whole splitter looks great.

On a fixed wedge splitter you need to have something to keep the bent pieces from shooting off of the ram. Maybe some people leave all of the pieces that aren't cut straight, have a bow in them or are nasty crotches. I split it all.

My splitter has a pattern of angle iron slices on the main ram and pipe slices on the ram extension (to close the gap for stringy woods). I have attached pictures of both.

Don
 
I built mine a few years ago, and if I had to do it again I wopuld just buy one. I thought I could build it in a couple of hours and it took forever any many design changes to get things just right.
 

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