I use the oregon gauge and it works just fine, as long as you file the cutter somewhat evenly you won't have any problems with this kind of gauge.
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Stihl#1 - you may well be doing it the "right way", but you are the only guy I know that gives a damn about "ruining the tool'
When I use the Stihl raker gauge, I set it on the chain and look straight across to see if any material is protruding through the slot on the gauge. If it is I take the gauge off, file across a few times with a "SAFE" file, meaning it has no teeth on the edges, just the flat so it will not damage the cutter edge, and then set the gauge back in place to see if the raker is set. I do not file across the gauge as that will eventually ruin the gauge. And I roll the file down as I cut across the raker to round off the front so it is done already.
I was reading his post and was thinking how I do the same exact thing for the same reasons
So now you know 2 people...
When I use the Stihl raker gauge, I set it on the chain and look straight across to see if any material is protruding through the slot on the gauge. If it is I take the gauge off, file across a few times with a "SAFE" file, meaning it has no teeth on the edges, just the flat so it will not damage the cutter edge, and then set the gauge back in place to see if the raker is set. I do not file across the gauge as that will eventually ruin the gauge. And I roll the file down as I cut across the raker to round off the front so it is done already.
I used to eye ball them with a flat bastard, now I use my grinder get one set in to gauge and get with the program. My saws cut great I have no problem with my quick method. I just need them to cut good not win races, I will file them for that! I wander if I am the only one that uses the silvey for raker's and cutters:monkey:
Crofter, just so Lakeside doesn't feel that I'm bashing the Stilh giude tool, the pointed end is the best thing I've found for cleaning out the bar grove. Run it down the grove and give it a blast of air and you're done.
Carl
Where do you buy one of those things. I've never seen the one with the roller & depth gauge combo.
I use the progressive method of lowering the rakers as the chain is filed back. The optimum cutting angle is reduced as the chain is filed back resulting in a smaller chip. To maintain the original new chain cutting efficiency when the tooth reaches the rear rivet, the depth of the raker should be .038”. This allows the cutting edge to enter the wood at the correct optimum angle. Depth gauges should be lowered every time the chain is filed, but this is rarely done. When the “constant” method is used, the gauge reads .025” but as the chain is filed back, the chain becomes less efficient because the optimum cutting angle is reduced. With the progressive method, the optimum raker height is factored in and the chip size remains constant. This progressive method is easily accomplished with a file-o-plate. Even if you have an adjustable depth gauge, the exact amount the rakers should be lowered is hard to determine. A lot of experience helps. Any chain that is filed back, using either the constant or progressive method of lowering the rakers, will cause kickback energy to increase slightly.
Art Martin
Thanks Frank,
I did read about them in that thread and something about them being progressive, just a little too much for my pea brain too grasp, I'll go back and study a little more.
Later,
PS here is a little on it-
It all makes sense to me , but if all the cutters are the same length would not any gauge work and get the same raker height ?
Nope, a progressive one will make the raker clearance larger as the chain is filed back, as it should be - the std Stihl/Oregon type will give you a constant clearance all the way.
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