SawTroll - raker guide

[boilerhouse47]

SawTroll in another thread you said not to use a raker guide that sets on top of the chain. I have one of the Stilh raker guides that lays ontop of the chain, why would you not recommend using it? I'm not doubting your word on this, you have far more expierence than I, but I just want to know why this style is poorer at the task than some other style. I will say I'm not sure if this guide should point toward the chain brake or away from the chain brake when it is being used and it is hard to hold steady without rocking. If one of the other styles is simpler and better to use I'm all for it. Again I'm not busting on you, I only want to learn from those that have used all types of guides and why they prefer a certain style.
Carl

 

[Ekka]

I dont bother with that crap thing, just look down the chain and you can see the gap, eye sight mate, then I decide one or two wipes with a flat file to get it right.

Piece of piss.

 

[outdoortype]

Try the Husky or J-Red version...

I know you asked ST but I kind of understand what he was talking about in that thread. I've used the Stihl/Oregon syle and it works fine but the Husky style is more precise and easier to use. It's hard to explain without showing you a picture but here goes. The Stihl raker gauge rests on top of several teeth with the groove facing the tip of the bar. The step down edge behind the groove rests against the face of the tooth. Each tooth is slightly differnent in length after a few filings so your really getting an "average".

The Husky depth gauge tool snaps around the drive link and lays at an angle on top of the next raker. You have to hold the gauge fairly level but it works better IMO.

 

[24d]

I'm glad this has been brought up, I use a peice of glass and a feeler gauge or a Granberg type file guide. The glass an feeler gauge method gets them all the same in relationship to the tooth, the file guide method gets them all the same in relationship to the bar. I know everyone has a way and I'd like too hear about it. Also why is (this guide) considered by many to be the ultimate?

Later,

 

[superfire]

I dont bother with that crap thing, just look down the chain and you can see the gap, eye sight mate, then I decide one or two wipes with a flat file to get it right.

Piece of piss.

i agree eyeball works best
me when i buy a new chain two light swipes on the riders and then one light swipe every 6th sharpening

 

[boilerhouse47]

Those of you that suggest the eyeball method, you have cut more trees in one week than I have in my lifetime, for me to look at a chain and say that the rakers need taken down just won't work. I look at a chain and say "yep those are rakers". I understand the importance of having the rakers at the proper hieghth, but I would like a easy to use tool to set the hieghth for me.
I may look for a Husky dealer and have them demonstrate thier raker tool. One question on the Husky tool. If the raker controls the depth that the tooth bites into the wood how can you adjust the raker hieghth by using the bar as your starting point for the hieghth measurment?

Thanks to all that replied, I should have asked for everyones imput not just Sawtrolls. I know how some get thier panties in a wad when you do what I did.

Thanks Again Carl

 

[SawTroll]

SawTroll in another thread you said not to use a raker guide that sets on top of the chain. I have one of the Stilh raker guides that lays ontop of the chain, why would you not recommend using it? I'm not doubting your word on this, you have far more expierence than I, but I just want to know why this style is poorer at the task than some other style. I will say I'm not sure if this guide should point toward the chain brake or away from the chain brake when it is being used and it is hard to hold steady without rocking. If one of the other styles is simpler and better to use I'm all for it. Again I'm not busting on you, I only want to learn from those that have used all types of guides and why they prefer a certain style.
Carl

The ones that sit on top of two or more cutters will not adjust the rakers to the individual tooth - and will make good results only if the cutters are filed to exactly the same length and higth. Otherwise the resulting raker clearance will vary quite a bit.

You will also have to "ramp" the rakers in a second operation, as the guide make them flat on the top.

The Husky raker guides, that often are found in combination with the roller guides, make better results easier.
The rakers are lowered and ramped in the same operation.
I believe the Carlton File-O-Plate works the same way, but haven't actually used it.

 

[Ed*L]

Those of you that suggest the eyeball method, you have cut more trees in one week than I have in my lifetime, for me to look at a chain and say that the rakers need taken down just won't work. I look at a chain and say "yep those are rakers". I understand the importance of having the rakers at the proper hieghth, but I would like a easy to use tool to set the hieghth for me.
I may look for a Husky dealer and have them demonstrate thier raker tool. One question on the Husky tool. If the raker controls the depth that the tooth bites into the wood how can you adjust the raker hieghth by using the bar as your starting point for the hieghth measurment?

Thanks to all that replied, I should have asked for everyones imput not just Sawtrolls. I know how some get thier panties in a wad when you do what I did.

Thanks Again Carl

I put a short straightedge across the top of the teeth and check the height with a feeler gage.
Then a couple of freehand passes with the file, check again, file again if needed.
Repeat the same ammount of file strokes for each raker.

Ed

 

[SawTroll]

.... If the raker controls the depth that the tooth bites into the wood how can you adjust the raker hieghth by using the bar as your starting point for the hieghth measurment? ....

You surely don't with the Husky guides that I am referring to - the tip of the cutter and the top of the chain chassis are the reference points.......

 

[MAG58]

OK....here we go again................

 

[boilerhouse47]

Thanks Sawtroll your post are allways to the point and easy to understand, don't ever leave this forum.
Mag58- great pictures now I see how that style works it looks as though it would stay in place better than the style I use. Is that the Husky raker guide or some other brand?
Carl

 

[MAG58]

Thanks Sawtroll your post are allways to the point and easy to understand, don't ever leave this forum.
Mag58- great pictures now I see how that style works it looks as though it would stay in place better than the style I use. Is that the Husky raker guide or some other brand?
Carl

This is the Husqvarna/Jonsered/Partner guide for 3/8 (blue)chain, for cutters and rakers..........

 

[SawTroll]

It is sold under several brand names, but usually referred to as Husky.

It is important to get the right one - there are several versions for different kinds of chain

 

[Lakeside53]

You'd have to have a pretty big variation in tooth length to have any material effect.... I don't believe it matters a hoot in every day use.

 

[Stihl #1]

When I use the Stihl raker gauge, I set it on the chain and look straight across to see if any material is protruding through the slot on the gauge. If it is I take the gauge off, file across a few times with a "SAFE" file, meaning it has no teeth on the edges, just the flat so it will not damage the cutter edge, and then set the gauge back in place to see if the raker is set. I do not file across the gauge as that will eventually ruin the gauge. And I roll the file down as I cut across the raker to round off the front so it is done already.

 

[Lakeside53]

Stihl#1 - you may well be doing it the "right way", but you are the only guy I know that gives a damn about "ruining the tool'

 

[pdqdl]

That's just what my father-in-law needs

It is sold under several brand names, but usually referred to as Husky.

It is important to get the right one - there are several versions for different kinds of chain

Where do you buy one of those things. I've never seen the one with the roller & depth gauge combo.

 

[logbutcher]

Been using the Pferd combination filer for about 2 years on Stihl .325, 3/8, and "micro". Easy to work, fast, does BOTH the cutter and raker based on the cutter height---yes, you do have to round the rakers after 2-3 sharpenings. Don't even bother with a power grinder anymore , except grinding chipping from barbed wire or 30-06's .

Husky sells the Pferd as "Sharpforce": what marketing, huh ?

Damn Pferd is better than __________ (time for a poll ) :monkey:

 

[ropensaddle]

I used to eye ball them with a flat bastard, now I use my grinder
get one set in to gauge and get with the program. My saws cut great
I have no problem with my quick method. I just need them to cut good
not win races, I will file them for that! I wander if I am the only one that
uses the silvey for raker's and cutters:monkey:

 

[parrisw]

I give a big thumbs up for the Husky combi gauge, works great. Thats what I use out when cutting. I have a grinder at home, that I sharpen and set the rakers with. I also have a oregon gauge for rakers, and it sits across 2 teeth, I never had a problem with that gauge, always cut good, and I don't care about ruining that gauge, if it wears out, get a new one!!!