My Log Lifter Invention

[Wood Doctor]

Make this out of metal do away with weight box,and make a tongue to fit in traylor hitch to hold it in place??????

Also, RR, remember that gas springs can go higher than 90 lb capacities without too much increase in cost. I like this idea.

The best part about a gas spring is that unlike a torsion spring or coil spring, it maintains a constant lift pressure as it expands. It doesn't weaken, and it doesn't start out too strong.

 

[retired redneck]

This lift is a exlant idea, there are alot of older men that cant lift heavey wood but still like to cut.i am 68 i think i will have one made of metal for me...

 

[Ductape]

Great idea !

A couple simple suggestions for the production model.

1) Make it out of aluminum.... nice and light, won't rust
2) Make it extendable at the log end. This will make it more stable and eliminate the need for counterweight.
3) Make the vertical piece the log rests against fold down flat when not in use (so i can keep mine behind the seat of my standard cab truck when not in use.
4) If possible, perhaps there is a way to make it height adjustable without adversely affecting lift capacity? That way i could use it to load my F350, as well as the next guy could use it to load his 2wd Toyota.

 

[Agnes]

Very Nice! American ingeniunity at its finest!

If I were you I would patent that baby and sell it or the plans to it. I know I would use something like that to load wood in my truck and it would definitely would save the ole back.

 

[WidowMaker]

Slick Idea, how do you release and engage the retaining pins...

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Slick Idea, how do you release and engage the retaining pins...

The pins seem like they would be a hassle of sorts.

if the mounting points for bottom of the gas springs was drilled in the center of the board and the mount for the top was drilled just below center of its board, when you collapsed the lift the springs would break over center and hold itself in place without the need for pins.

To lift the log the first inch or so to break it back over, put a foot lever on the end. You step on the foot lever , it raises the end a couple of inches and it is on it's way up with out bending down to install or release pins.

You have a marvelous idea there. Kudos !!

Edit : I 'd still have the pins ready for traveling with it behind the seat. You wouldnt want it getting unsprung behind you while headed home with a load on.

 

[turnkey4099]

Neat yes, practical no. I think that would be more work then just lifting the pieces in the truck. Maybe my back isn't bad enough yet.

Pretty much my opinion. I have built a lot of stuff in my time that looked great on paper and even worked but soon showed that they weren't practical.

One thing I noticed about the lifter. If it can lift, say 150 lbs, it will also take 150 lbs to push it back down.

Harry K

 

[iowawoodcutter]

Neat yes, practical no. I think that would be more work then just lifting the pieces in the truck. Maybe my back isn't bad enough yet.

I am only 34, 6'5", 215 lbs and lift weights a lot, but I HATE lifting anything over 50 pounds into the back of my truck or wheelbarrow. Much too hard on the knees (which are bad anyway from years of abuse on the basketball court) and back. I prefer to quarter all my rounds with an axe before lifting them in the truck. It has to be done sometime anyway with my axe since I don't own a gas powered splitter.

I do like WoodDocs idea though and will probably make something similar to give it a shot. Sometimes I just don't have enough juice left at the end of the day to quarter and then lift everything. Depending on how much initial lift on the contraption it takes, I would save 50% of my lifting energy thoughout the day.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Great idea !

A couple simple suggestions for the production model.

1) Make it out of aluminum.... nice and light, won't rust
2) Make it extendable at the log end. This will make it more stable and eliminate the need for counterweight.
3) Make the vertical piece the log rests against fold down flat when not in use (so i can keep mine behind the seat of my standard cab truck when not in use.
4) If possible, perhaps there is a way to make it height adjustable without adversely affecting lift capacity? That way i could use it to load my F350, as well as the next guy could use it to load his 2wd Toyota.

I have my thinking cap on.

First, I doubt Item (2) and (4) could be done without using different springs, longer ones for a higher lift. That also means increasing the length of the frame that in turn would also require stronger springs to get the same lifting power. Higher lift means more work required, as I am sure you have already found out. So, best bet is probably to have two models with the lift height being about 6" apart.

Second, the counterweight is almost a must, similar to an elevator. The more weight you try to lift, the greater the tendancy for the counterweight box to raise up as the gas springs apply their force.

Item (3) is easy to build. That can work like a flap that folds down out of the way, hinged at the bottom.

Ductape, thanks for your suggestions.

 

[retired redneck]

If you were stacking big rounds two high on your truck you could lay it on the floor of your truck to do so.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Slick Idea, how do you release and engage the retaining pins...

The retaining pins are simply 5/16" carriage bolts, about 4" long. These fit into oversize holes drilled in the base frame and the lifting frame. They are very easy to remove and replace.

When the springs are compressed down and no log is on board, the gas springs apply a small sideways force to the pins that hold them secure to the lift frame and the base. The closed position is thus retained by the springs and the pins working together.

Then when the log is in place, ready to go up, the pins loosen automatically and slip right out. I suppose I could have used one long rod with a knob on one end that runs all the way across the frame, but that seemed a bit cumbersome. I may try that anyway just to see.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The pins seem like they would be a hassle of sorts.

if the mounting points for bottom of the gas springs was drilled in the center of the board and the mount for the top was drilled just below center of its board, when you collapsed the lift the springs would break over center and hold itself in place without the need for pins.

To lift the log the first inch or so to break it back over, put a foot lever on the end. You step on the foot lever , it raises the end a couple of inches and it is on it's way up with out bending down to install or release pins.

You have a marvelous idea there. Kudos !!

Edit : I 'd still have the pins ready for traveling with it behind the seat. You wouldn't want it getting unsprung behind you while headed home with a load on.

Good points. The retaining pins (or one long one all the way across) are a must for several reasons, the most important being that if the gas springs take off with no weight on board, you have a huge mousetrap to contend with.

I like the idea of a separate lever to get the spring action started, provided one man can run the lever AND contol the lift. Let me think about that one. On occasion, and with really heavy logs, I have started the lift with an ordinary long-handle shovel with a blunt point.

 

[strongback]

After reading this thread I'm dying to see this contraption but I can't see the photos. Can they be posted in a different manner. As links maybe? If they are in photobucket I'll just have to wait until I get home.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I have my thinking cap on.

First, I doubt Item (2) and (4) could be done without using different springs, longer ones for a higher lift. That also means increasing the length of the frame that in turn would also require stronger springs to get the same lifting power. Higher lift means more work required, as I am sure you have already found out. So, best bet is probably to have two models with the lift height being about 6" apart.

Second, the counterweight is almost a must, similar to an elevator. The more weight you try to lift, the greater the tendancy for the counterweight box to raise up as the gas springs apply their force.

Item (3) is easy to build. That can work like a flap that folds down out of the way, hinged at the bottom.

Ductape, thanks for your suggestions.

Unless I read it wrong, I don't think Ductape was reffering to the lifting portion being extendable but rather the foot of the device being longer, giving more stability. I could be wrong.

The counter weight is only needed because the foot doesnt extend past the center of the load, making it lopsided or off-balance as it is trying to raise it. Make the foot longer with a cross brace on the end, like on the lift arm. This gives you a place for the lever to get things started once you are ready. You wont need the counter weight and it should be lighter to carry.

Instead of making the lift arm extendable put in a second 'flap' for shorter trucks.

It looks like you have spent some time , thought and effort maximizing it's lifting potential. I have to say, Nice Work.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

You think the chinks will coppy this and sell it to northern first???

we know who invented it and if northern took this invention and try to claim it as there own then they would have several folks saying something to them


we know wood doc invented it

i think it looks rather cute helps saves someones back from getting a vertabrae out of wack

 

[Wood Doctor]

Just the Opposite is True

Unless I read it wrong, I don't think Ductape was reffering to the lifting portion being extendable but rather the foot of the device being longer, giving more stability. I could be wrong.

The counter weight is only needed because the foot doesnt extend past the center of the load, making it lopsided or off-balance as it is trying to raise it. Make the foot longer with a cross brace on the end, like on the lift arm. This gives you a place for the lever to get things started once you are ready. You wont need the counter weight and it should be lighter to carry.

Instead of making the lift arm extendable put in a second 'flap' for shorter trucks.

It looks like you have spent some time , thought and effort maximizing it's lifting potential. I have to say, Nice Work.

Boy, this is going to be a shock to you (and pehaps to Ductape as well). I originally made the foot frame the same length as the lifting frame on the original design because that was easy to make. That completely backfired!

By extending the foot frame ends toward the log, you give the gas springs more leverage (moment of force) to lift the counterweight right off the ground. By shortening the foot frame, the gas springs lose their leverage (moment of force) on the counterweight and the counterweight thus needs less mass to keep the whole assembly from lifting off the ground.

So, I shortened the ends of the foot frame about as far as I could so that I could still close the gas springs back down after the lift, and suddenly my invention worked beautifully. GASP! :jawdrop:

 

[iowawoodcutter]

Wooddoc

Would you mind putting together some dimensions? I would like to do it, but I dont really want to go through the growing pains..

thanks

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I originally made the foot frame the same length as the lifting frame on the original design because that was easy to make. That completely backfired!

....

So, I shortened the ends of the foot frame about as far as I could, and suddenly my invention worked beautifully. GASP! :jawdrop:

If you tried it and it didn't work for you it would be insane Keep doing the same over and over expecting different results.

I'm still not convinced though. I didn't say I didn't like the idea. I can see the usefullness of it right away. BUT - With the weight of the log extended past the end of the foot frame it couldnt help but tip without counter balance. That is like running a boom truck without the outriggers down. Then having the hired help hang on to the other side for counter balance for the guy in the bucket.

I'm not knocking you or your work. I offered some free advice thinking I might put something like this together, take it for what it's worth. If you dont think it will work' nuff said.

 

[Wood Doctor]

If you tried it and it didn't work for you it would be insane Keep doing the same over and over expecting different results.

I'm still not convinced though. I didn't say I didn't like the idea. I can see the usefullness of it right away. BUT - With the weight of the log extended past the end of the foot frame it couldnt help but tip without counter balance. That is like running a boom truck without the outriggers down. Then having the hired help hang on to the other side for counter balance for the guy in the bucket.

I'm not knocking you or your work. I offered some free advice thinking I might put something like this together, take it for what it's worth. If you dont think it will work' nuff said.

Well, I guess you have to try it to understand, but trust me, I was fooled also. You have to balance the moments of force about the end of foot frame. The longer the foot frame, the more counterweight that is required or else the whole assembly rocks backwards toward you, the lifter.

As the bottom of the gas spring approaches the end of the foot frame the counterweight has a greater advantage over the gas spring.

And, I do appreciate your free advice. Opinions and discussion are priceless, and that is why I posted this invention.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Well, I guess you have to try it to understand, but trust me, I was fooled also. You have to balance the moments of force about the end of foot frame. The longer the foot frame, the more counterweight that is required or else the whole assembly rocks backwards toward you, the lifter.

As the bottom of the gas spring approaches the end of the foot frame the counterweight has a greater advantage over the gas spring.

And, I do appreciate your free advice. Opinions and discussion are priceless, and that is why I posted this invention.

OH, they were the same length. It was balanced on the end of the foot, on the verge of tipping anyway. As the log moved toward the truck the small foot needed more stability where it was supporting the weight...

Never mind, 'nuff said".

You are welcome.