urhstry
ArboristSite Operative
What would be the ideal setup as far as a thermostat for our Shavers? Cost not being an option.
Attention Shaver owners
- Thread starter ngzcaz
- Start date
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ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
Dropping a probe onto the hot water coil area would be best because you don't interfere with the integrity of the water tank that way and create a possible leak.
You MIGHT be able to do that from the front, where the copper coil comes out, without removing the cover.
Best regards,
Ben
ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
Mia?
Hi Steve,
I have posted in other areas and threads.
I looked through all of my e-mails and don't see anything from "Steve" that wasn't answered.
Once can be missed occasionally, with a couple hundred coming in each day - but I don't see yours - thus no reply.
I am usually up until 11 or 12 and once or twice a week, until 2 AM answering e-mails!
Please resend it.
THANKS!
Hi Steve,
I have posted in other areas and threads.
I looked through all of my e-mails and don't see anything from "Steve" that wasn't answered.
Once can be missed occasionally, with a couple hundred coming in each day - but I don't see yours - thus no reply.
I am usually up until 11 or 12 and once or twice a week, until 2 AM answering e-mails!
Please resend it.
THANKS!
Last edited:
T-Stat
Dropping a probe onto the hot water coil area would be best because you don't interfere with the integrity of the water tank that way and create a possible leak.
You MIGHT be able to do that from the front, where the copper coil comes out, without removing the cover.
Best regards,
Ben
Ben, do you guys get complaints about people burning through t-stats? I'm now on my 4th one in 1.5 weeks. and now looking for a nice digital unit. 2 nights of repairing a t-stat at 20 degrees is not fun.
Dropping a probe onto the hot water coil area would be best because you don't interfere with the integrity of the water tank that way and create a possible leak.
You MIGHT be able to do that from the front, where the copper coil comes out, without removing the cover.
Best regards,
Ben
Ben, do you guys get complaints about people burning through t-stats? I'm now on my 4th one in 1.5 weeks. and now looking for a nice digital unit. 2 nights of repairing a t-stat at 20 degrees is not fun.
ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
Ash pans and kitsches
On the subject of the kitsch; most people already have something to scrape the ashes out. All of these things cost money and in keeping with our dedication to keeping our low prices low, we don't add things which would add to the cost - other than the free poker!
While some people have asked about an ash pan and we told them we could make one, not ONE SINGLE PERSON has ever said to go ahead and do it after they have received their furnace and used it.
There is very little fine ash - unlike some models with lots of ash and chunks of wood, particularly the ones without a forced air fan. A 5 gallon bucket of ash a month, is about right (depending on the wood you burn).
Remember, the pan holds a LOT of ash, so cleaning it once a week is fine - about a quart worth. Some people admit to going 2 weeks.
Remember to turn of the fan so you don't get ash blown in your face!
As soon as things slow down a little, we will be putting temperature gauges on the furnaces. A sight glass is so unnecessary when all you have to do is open the valve at the front and when water comes out of the overflow you're fine! A sight glass full of water can freeze...
Do not thread one into the overflow tube or you may inadvertently pressurize your unit because no steam can escape.
Best regards,
Ben
On the subject of the kitsch; most people already have something to scrape the ashes out. All of these things cost money and in keeping with our dedication to keeping our low prices low, we don't add things which would add to the cost - other than the free poker!
While some people have asked about an ash pan and we told them we could make one, not ONE SINGLE PERSON has ever said to go ahead and do it after they have received their furnace and used it.
There is very little fine ash - unlike some models with lots of ash and chunks of wood, particularly the ones without a forced air fan. A 5 gallon bucket of ash a month, is about right (depending on the wood you burn).
Remember, the pan holds a LOT of ash, so cleaning it once a week is fine - about a quart worth. Some people admit to going 2 weeks.
Remember to turn of the fan so you don't get ash blown in your face!
As soon as things slow down a little, we will be putting temperature gauges on the furnaces. A sight glass is so unnecessary when all you have to do is open the valve at the front and when water comes out of the overflow you're fine! A sight glass full of water can freeze...
Do not thread one into the overflow tube or you may inadvertently pressurize your unit because no steam can escape.
Best regards,
Ben
ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
Thermostats
Hi!
The failure rate on thermostats is less than 1%.
I have NEVER heard of four failures like you have experienced, not even a request for two!
Just a thought: At $5-8, it wouldn't cost much to keep a spare on hand.
We use a commercial thermostat - supposedly US made, from a company in NC. Make sure your replacement goes to 180F. A cheaper household thermostat only goes to 150F.
The are rated to handle thousands of watts since they control the elements in a hot water heater, so why any would fail at 40 watts, is unbeknownst to me!
Thermostats are a warranty item so we will gladly send you the correct replacement!
Best regards,
Ben
Hi!
The failure rate on thermostats is less than 1%.
I have NEVER heard of four failures like you have experienced, not even a request for two!
Just a thought: At $5-8, it wouldn't cost much to keep a spare on hand.
We use a commercial thermostat - supposedly US made, from a company in NC. Make sure your replacement goes to 180F. A cheaper household thermostat only goes to 150F.
The are rated to handle thousands of watts since they control the elements in a hot water heater, so why any would fail at 40 watts, is unbeknownst to me!
Thermostats are a warranty item so we will gladly send you the correct replacement!
Best regards,
Ben
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
unfortunately the probe needs to be in a well. Will it void my warranty if I mount a well in the thermostat area? I realize if it leaks from that area I'm responsible, but what if it leaks elsewhere or the unlikely event of a burn through.
I hope you don't take this thread as Shaver bashing. The boiler is the ruggedly built one I've seen, it weighs the same as a CB 6048 which is physically much larger. I like the fact it is simple, that way I can customize it to my needs. The only thing I wish I did was have you add about 4 more ports to access the water jacket when you added the custom large door. I most definitely do not regret buying the boiler, it's working well for me, but I am a tinkerer (you should see my geothermal AC system
). Just out of curiosity Ben, what is the cost of an ashpan for a 290? Is it longer than a 160? If so you might want to provide both prices. A thermometer would be awesome!!!!! Will you offer retrofit kits? please...ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
Ben, I for one, would have taken advantage of that offer had I known about it. I would much prefer an actual slide out pan, not a bin. Can I cut out the raised part of the furnace bin and make my own pan to slide out ? Or will I be cutting into the water jacket ? If I make a pan the way it is, its going to be angled quite a bit and make the ashes slide toward the draft blower which is not good. Its the main reason I got rid of an older great wood stove and bought one with an removable ash pan. While finer ash is good as far as efficiency is concerned, its not a great thing when its raked and falls especially if its windy......
It appears most of the guys would like an actual reading of the water on the front of the boiler. There's no way to tell what the actual temp of the water is or even if the t-stat is working until the boilers half empty. I realize costs are an issue but let the consumer decide what, if any, extra expenses he's willing to incur. Whats a couple of bucks when you have $5,000 or more in this ? And it doesnt have to be a sight glass, it can be made of a thick clear flexible plastic tube. And all it would take is a couple of inches of 1/2 inch pipe coming above or below the present one depending on how you run it.
It appears Fletcher has the only viable idea at present for a t-stat. Does Shaver have a better or alternative idea ? And I said this numerous times ( and its been borne out by several posts ) a water level gauge and front water temp gauge should not be extras, they should be standard issue for all manufacturers. Sure its easy to turn on the water and see if it comes out the overflow but that involves 2 people unless you want to run outside, see if its coming out and then run back in the house to turn it off. Plus you have no way of knowing how low it was. Its kinda like shutting the barn door after the animals are out of the barn. Obviously this is for the many guys who opted to run just two lines with a bypass and not the third line operated outside the boiler.
It appears most of the guys would like an actual reading of the water on the front of the boiler. There's no way to tell what the actual temp of the water is or even if the t-stat is working until the boilers half empty. I realize costs are an issue but let the consumer decide what, if any, extra expenses he's willing to incur. Whats a couple of bucks when you have $5,000 or more in this ? And it doesnt have to be a sight glass, it can be made of a thick clear flexible plastic tube. And all it would take is a couple of inches of 1/2 inch pipe coming above or below the present one depending on how you run it.
It appears Fletcher has the only viable idea at present for a t-stat. Does Shaver have a better or alternative idea ? And I said this numerous times ( and its been borne out by several posts ) a water level gauge and front water temp gauge should not be extras, they should be standard issue for all manufacturers. Sure its easy to turn on the water and see if it comes out the overflow but that involves 2 people unless you want to run outside, see if its coming out and then run back in the house to turn it off. Plus you have no way of knowing how low it was. Its kinda like shutting the barn door after the animals are out of the barn. Obviously this is for the many guys who opted to run just two lines with a bypass and not the third line operated outside the boiler.
My CB unit, that just came in today, has a peck cock on the sight tube. Flip it up and the water runs into the tube showing the level. Turn it down and it shuts off the water flowing in to the tube, then the water in the tube has a hole to drain out. There is never a time to freeze inside the tube. Lever up, check level, lever down, drain tube. Priceless !!!
:monkey:
:monkey:
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
My buddy has one and I do like that function. The CB is a well put together unit.
tanker
ArboristSite Operative
After reading all these posts,I can honestly say I have no regrets about buying my Central Boiler and the price that I gave for it
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
did you have regrets before reading them?
JK, I have a CB dealer about 3 miles up the street, but the guy really rubbed me the wrong way and I couldn't bring myself to buy from him. Nice boilers though.
tanker
ArboristSite Operative
did you have regrets before reading them?
JK, I have a CB dealer about 3 miles up the street, but the guy really rubbed me the wrong way and I couldn't bring myself to buy from him. Nice boilers though.
No, about the only thing that I have ever bought that actualy paid for itself and worked out like I thought it would.A very good pc. of equiptment and the dealer is a jewel.
projectsho89
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I resent it last Thursday morning shortly after you posted here. Outlook's receipt says it was read at 11:52 AM, but I still haven't heard from you.
I've been giving the benefit of the doubt so far, but this is not promising....
Problem with Shaver thermostat?
Anyone using the thermostat originally installed by Shaver can simply remove the thermostat, put on a Thermal Mastic Heat-Conducting Compound and reinstall the thermostat. (sandwich it between the OWB casing and thermostat)
This is a heat transfer paste that is used with commercial boilers and it increases heat transfer at four times the rate obtained with mechanical mounting only. You will notice the difference immediately.
It also replaces solder for heat transmission and can be used wherever rapid heat transmission is desired. It is stable at all working temperatures, does not harden or lose adhesion at -50*F and will not flow at +220*F.
I use this on all my commercial boiler and water heater sensor installs.
Give it a try.
HVACrTech - Tom
Anyone using the thermostat originally installed by Shaver can simply remove the thermostat, put on a Thermal Mastic Heat-Conducting Compound and reinstall the thermostat. (sandwich it between the OWB casing and thermostat)
This is a heat transfer paste that is used with commercial boilers and it increases heat transfer at four times the rate obtained with mechanical mounting only. You will notice the difference immediately.
It also replaces solder for heat transmission and can be used wherever rapid heat transmission is desired. It is stable at all working temperatures, does not harden or lose adhesion at -50*F and will not flow at +220*F.
I use this on all my commercial boiler and water heater sensor installs.
Give it a try.
HVACrTech - Tom
ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
Thermostats
That's a good suggestion Tom.
I believe that dielectric "grease" from your local auto parts store may work the same way.
It's for transferring heat from an electronic control module to the distributor.
Best regards,
Ben
That's a good suggestion Tom.
I believe that dielectric "grease" from your local auto parts store may work the same way.
It's for transferring heat from an electronic control module to the distributor.
Best regards,
Ben
ShaverFurnace
ArboristSite Member
I DID answer!
Hi Steve,
I answered EVERY e-mail from Thurday. I just looked through every one of them.
You must not be receiving them!
In fact I answered TWO e-mails to people writing named Steve, that day.
Best regards,
Ben
Hi Steve,
I answered EVERY e-mail from Thurday. I just looked through every one of them.
You must not be receiving them!
In fact I answered TWO e-mails to people writing named Steve, that day.
Best regards,
Ben
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
I can vouch for that, I am the other Steve and received a response.
projectsho89
ArboristSite Operative
If that is the case, then my ISP (AT&T) must be filtering your ISP's traffic and the mail is never making it through.
See your PM inbox in a couple of minutes.
Steve
