Do shorter bars cut faster?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You really have to run this experiment in your mind 'cause you can't cut the same wood twice.

In my thought experiment I cut the same 12" diameter log twice; once with a 16" bar and once with a 20" bar. So the only thing that changed was the length of the bar. Everything else is exactly the same. If you can suspend disbelief a little further you could run the experiment using a chain of zero mass and frictionless contact between the chain and bar. In this scenario there would be absolutely no difference in cutting speed between the long and short bars. This is true because the same volume of wood is removed in each cut. There is no more friction using the long bar than the short bar because there is the same amount of contact between the wood and the chain/bar. Makes sense right?

Now if we take into account the mass of the chain and the friction between the chain and bar, we can agree that the longer bar uses a more massive chain and that there is more more surface area and thus more friction between the chain and bar. Thus greater percentage of the saw's energy is used to simply move the chain around the bar and less of the energy goes into actually cutting wood. So the shorter bar would be the faster.

Real world, the extra mass of the chain and the added friction of the longer chain/bar combo is probably insignificant when compared to the friction between the chain and the wood. I doubt you could even measure the difference even with a stopwatch.

All that other stuff about less bending, fewer cutters to sharpen, less weight, balance between power head and bar, personal comfort, etc. are probably all more important than the difference in the speed of cut.

:agree2:

Bogiemsn, right on, that’s the point I was making in my opening question when I said, “Since the Linear speed of the chain can be no faster than the circular speed of the drive sprocket why do some say that a shorter bar cuts faster?”

So we really don’t gain much cutting speed by using a smaller bar, ok, maybe a little if we consider the additional friction, but not enough to really matter. It sounds like it just boils down to a matter of preference and cutting conditions.
 
Spacemule is on my ignore list so I can't quote him but I was able to read his post thanks to Euroford. Space you are once again absolutely wrong when it comes to working a falling saw. A short bar is a recipe for disaster when teamed up with a big powerfulm saw. For instance a 16" bar on a MS660 will be one heck of a kickback hazard compared to a 36" bar.

Stick to what you kanow which is... I don't know what.

How quaint. I can dog you at will and you will not see it. I don't mind if you discount what I say, but you merely make a fool of yourself when you do so without justification or basis. I provide this response for any others keeping up with this discussion.

Your statement that a 16" bar on a 660 is a larger kickback hazard is completely wrong, and I'll illustrate why. But first, let me ask everyone this. What do you do when you are loosening a nut that will not budge? Have you ever gotten a "cheater bar" to break nuts loose? Longer bars posing more danger works on the same principle.

Let's take two arbitrary bar lengths, say 16" and 28". Now, for all intents and purposes, the chain speed will be constant between the two bar lengths for a given saw.

Now, we need to understand kickback. Kickback occurs when the bar tip comes against an obstruction and forces the tip of the saw up and back towards the operator.

attachment.php


As you can see, your hands are holding the rear of the saw and acting like the bolt you had trouble breaking loose before. The upward force on the bar is transferred as torque through the bar into the handles and you must hold the bar in place. Given that the chain speed is for all intents and purposes constant between bar lengths, the upward force on the tip of the bar will be the same in a kickback situation whether the bar is 16" or 28".

Now, we've said that torque is transferred through the bar into the handlebars on the saw. But, just what is torque you say? Torque is a rotational force multiplied by a distance. Let's take an arbitrary amount of force for illustrative purposes, say 50 pounds. We've already decided that this force will be the same between the bar lengths. So, the question becomes, how much torque is applied to the handlebars with a 16" bar versus a 28" bar?

Easy. While the rear of the bar is not the pivot point, we can use it for comparison, again merely for illustrious purposes. A 16" bar with a 50 pound kickback force at the tip will apply 50 pounds x 16", or 800 inch pounds of torque at the rear of the bar. A 28" bar with a 50 pound kickback force at the tip will apply 50 pounds x 28" or 1400 inch pounds of torque at the rear of the bar.

That's right folks, almost double the kickback torque that your hands must hold steady. The longer bar is a "cheater bar" of sorts and it will be more difficult to control in a kickback situation. Furthermore, I cut a lot of wood with a 20" bar on my Husqvarna 394, and I can tell you from personal experience that real life bolsters the physics facts I've alluded to. Furthermore, the longer bar is more apt to inadvertently be touched against a log unintentionally, further compounding the dangers of a longer bar.

Now, you can argue with me all you want, or disagree. I don't mind one bit. But please realize, arguing with the laws of physics only makes you look a fool.
 
Last edited:
Not sure I understand that? With a 6 inch diameter log you could theoretically run a 200 (that’s two hundred not twenty) inch bar and a 14 inch bar and they would both have exactly the same amount of teeth in the wood at any given moment.

OverAnalyst Man.....
Assuming the full length of the bar will be used for cutting and the chain can clear the chips, faster cutting speeds are possible with shorter bars.
 
Space, Have you ever had a 36" bar kick back at you as opposed to a 16" with the same 90cc saw? The 36" has a lot more weight and slower chain speed. It is also that much farther away so it has to travel that much farther, thereby slowing down in the process. A 16" is traveling much faster and has a much shorter distance to cover and less weight to cover it with. It is like spinning a tennis ball at the end of a string. The closer it gets to you as you shorten the string the faster it moves. Now add weight differences to that also. Try it tomorrow if you can. I have had it happen both ways. Believe me the 16" is much faster kicking back at you.
 
Space, Have you ever had a 36" bar kick back at you as opposed to a 16" with the same 90cc saw? The 36" has a lot more weight and slower chain speed. It is also that much farther away so it has to travel that much farther, thereby slowing down in the process. A 16" is traveling much faster and has a much shorter distance to cover and less weight to cover it with. It is like spinning a tennis ball at the end of a string. The closer it gets to you as you shorten the string the faster it moves. Now add weight differences to that also. Try it tomorrow if you can. I have had it happen both ways. Believe me the 16" is much faster kicking back at you.

Shorter distance to rotational axis, and without the energy loss from the longer bars mass at rest.

Short bars "Snap" up on kickback, longer bars IME are slower to come up and allow more time to recover control.

There is also energy loss due to the flex in longer bars...
It's a distance/force/time thing, not just a force/distance issue.

All the same dats some bad juju..best avoid it anyhooo.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Shorter distance to rotational axis, and without the energy loss from the longer bars mass at rest.

Short bars "Snap" up on kickback, longer bars IME are slower to come up and allow more time to recover control.

There is also energy loss due to the flex in longer bars...
It's a distance/force/time thing, not just a force/distance issue.

All the same dats some bad juju..best avoid it anyhooo.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

I agree. I was a little too beat last night to get too crazy into detail about it. Occaisonally I get a limb or something that is under pressure that will kick the nose into places I don't like. I also find that a firm, but flexible (for lack of a better term, supple maybe?) grip on the front handle bar will absorb the energy a lot better, than white knuckling it which gives the saw a firm point to use as an axis during kickback.
 
That's right folks, almost double the kickback torque that your hands must hold steady. The longer bar is a "cheater bar" of sorts and it will be more difficult to control in a kickback situation. Furthermore, I cut a lot of wood with a 20" bar on my Husqvarna 394, and I can tell you from personal experience that real life bolsters the physics facts I've alluded to. Furthermore, the longer bar is more apt to inadvertently be touched against a log unintentionally, further compounding the dangers of a longer bar.

Now, you can argue with me all you want, or disagree. I don't mind one bit. But please realize, arguing with the laws of physics only makes you look a fool.

Spacemule, you make some valid points, but If you’re going to use the laws of physics, you have to use them all. You're forgetting about inertia. Inertia = “the tendency of matter to remain at rest if at rest, or, if moving, to keep moving in the same direction , unless affected by some outside force”.

With a chainsaw, the inertia comes primarily from the spinning mass of the engine components (piston, rod, flywheel etc) which are near the hands, and partially from the spinning mass of the chain which is away from the hands. A longer bar will add a little more mass from the chain, but again chain mass is mostly away from the hands.

The parts of the saw that “remain at rest” while we’re cutting are the rest of the chainsaw components, like the bar. It takes inertia to start the bar in motion, therefore it stands to reason that it will take more inertia to start a longer bar in motion than a shorter bar.

Using the same saw running at the same RPM you will get a more violent kickback from a short bar as opposed to a long bar.

Just some food for thought.
 
Weight!!! Weight = inertia = energy. Ok, I’ll buy that thought. But again it can’t make a noticeable difference just adding or subtracting 2 inches.

2" turns into 4 inches more of drag, for the top and bottom rails of the bar. sometimes more if the larger bar also has a broader tip
 
OverAnalyst Man.....

OverAnalyst Man.....
Assuming the full length of the bar will be used for cutting and the chain can clear the chips, faster cutting speeds are possible with shorter bars.

LOL, It’s true, I do overanalyze stuff. Things that probably don’t really matter. But it does pass the time.

But now, back to your argument, what am I missing here? If I have a 10 inch diameter log and cut it with a 16 inch bar or an 18 inch bar aren’t the same amount of teeth going to be in the log at the same depth? Yes, a little more drag from the longer bar, I understand that so it’s has to be slightly faster with a shorter bar, but is it enough to matter? Are we talking 15 seconds with an 18 inch bar as opposed to 14.9 seconds with the 16?

The best argument for the shorter bar that I’ve seen here is the pro that wants to keep the weight as low a possible to avoid fatigue at the end of the day. Not so he (or she so I don’t offend any women arborists) can get more wood cut in a shorter time.
 
So back to the original question....

Are we all in agreement thet short bars DO cut faster?

They may not be the best for your application but i think it has been proven beyond any doubt that they will cut faster!
 
I don't have time to read the whole thread so I don't know if any body made any comments like i have.
I don't doubt a short bar has a slight edge in speed going through a log near the size of bar length, but to go out and buck 25" and bigger logs 1 after another such as blocking firewood with a 16" bar is a waste of time and much harder work then if your running a 20 " or bigger bar. Last time I did it about 2 months ago it wore me out going from 1 side of the log to the other and the going was much slower then what I'm used to using longer bars.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top