Do shorter bars cut faster?

[isaaccarlson]

I agree, longer bars are much better in the kickback dept.

I have had an 18" bar snap back so fast I didn't know what happened. A 20" bar is a little slower than the 18, but a 28 USUALLY just gives a little bump and comes up a couple inches because I can feel it coming and can compensate.

 

[isaaccarlson]

They CAN cut faster, but it depends what you are cutting.

To cut through the whole log. If same sized wood shorter than bar, then yes faster. On wood that is deeper than the short bar, no. OK? Good.

 

[Analyst Man]

So back to the original question....

Are we all in agreement thet short bars DO cut faster?

They may not be the best for your application but i think it has been proven beyond any doubt that they will cut faster!

Scotclayshooter, finally had a chance to watch your video (post #9). All I can say is doh!!! And if that’s the same saw with the same kind of chain and both are sharp, I concur, shorter is faster.

:Eye: Concur

 

[Analyst Man]

I think that this quote from “The Compete Joy of Home Brewing” by Charlie Papazian is relative to this discussion.

“However, there is still a great deal of satisfaction in knowing that although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is much further away!”

 

[Justsaws]

Yes.

 

[Analyst Man]

Yes.

Next question. What the heck are all those gold stars and little green dots under the location and posts numbers on the left side of each post? Hope I don’t have to start a new thread for this.

 

[bytehoven]

So back to the original question....

Are we all in agreement thet short bars DO cut faster?

:agree2:

I like a 12" E-light Picco or Micro-Lite bar on the 192T, for the least amount of weight, for occasional one handed use in the tree. Moving up to a 14"/16" bar on the 192T definitely slows the saw down in the same size wood, especially with Picco .050" chain. .043" NF chain is a little more forgiving, but I still don't need extra reach or weight.

I like the E-light 14" on the ms211 because it gives me just enough reach, enough weight reduction for lighter handling, while enough power to cut the full bar when needed. Although, if I needed to cut anywhere near the full bar more than a couple of times, I'd pull out a bigger saw. I could see running a 12" bar on this saw, but never the 16".

I like the 20" E bar on the ms361, because the setup provides a good balanced of weight and power, as well as good handling for bucking. I keep the 25" bar around, but I rarely use it. I would like to get a 16" setup for the 361 for occasions when I had a ton of limbing on a down tree. I'm not sure I'd appreciate the extra speed, but I would appreciate the reduced weight.

IMHO, bar choice is like saw choice. Both have their optimum performance range for the job at hand, so I try to set up the tool to accordingly.

As far as danger, a saw deserves my maximum respect, regardless the setup. But I would be particularly respectful of a real big saw with a real small bar.

 

[bytehoven]

What the heck are all those gold stars and little green dots under the location and posts numbers on the left side of each post? Hope I don’t have to start a new thread for this.

That's your reputation. I just gave ya a 2nd green bar.

 

[Analyst Man]

Back at ya! I'm a little green as you can see.

 

[chad3]

Best post in the past 2 pages is have a saw for what you are cutting. I'll swap saws as the tree gets smaller as I only want the saw to get through the tree. Only time I can see using larger bars is (my father is my best person for this) when you have a hard time bending over. He uses a 24" bar most of the time and then will use the tophandle for the branches. Posts that say most loggers will use a smaller bar I agree with. I do know a logger that uses a 660 with a 20" just because it is less weight than something larger and he can get through most of the wood. I also know another that used to swear by a 23" bar (can't get anymore) that would make the saw just about perfectly balanced. Thinking this might be the best idea.
Sorry this has nothing to do with the large vs small, but does have to do with why you would use one or the other.

 

[stihlboy]

you aren't gonna have kick-back any time soon with this

 

[isaaccarlson]

gave ya another green bar........

Maybe one of the heavy hitters can take care of you....

 

[Gypo Logger]

It also might be because most injuries happens with small top-handle saws!

Sawtroll, you have a memory like an elephant! lol
Here's my last saw cut with a small top handled 020, kickback induced while cutting skids. lol
John

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Looks like that the potential for pain.

 

[Analyst Man]

Maybe one of the heavy hitters can take care of you....

Well I have to say that I enjoyed all the input and that this was educational for me. Plus I learned what the green dots are for. Thinking back I can see where I should have given some out for some of the great comments that I saw here and the good advice given on a few other threads.

I no longer suffer from green dot envy…

:biggrinbounce2:

 

[howellhandmade]

SNIP For those that think 2" is negligible, ask your girlfriend if she shares that opinion. . .

Hey, Tom, it's not like you to let that one slide. Not feeling well? Too easy a shot?

Jack

 

[belgian]

I'm surprised no one complimented me on my superbly artistic chainsaw painting skills.

Ok, I'll say it then : congrats on your nice painting !

But like other have said, you cannot point out the significance of one physical law and forget the others.

Shorter bars are more dangerous for kickback, because of low inertia and shorter travel distance of the bar tip, combined with a higher chain speed in general. At least that's my limited experience.
I won't run smaller bars on anything above 70 cc.

 

[rarefish383]

Shorter distance to rotational axis, and without the energy loss from the longer bars mass at rest.

Short bars "Snap" up on kickback, longer bars IME are slower to come up and allow more time to recover control.

There is also energy loss due to the flex in longer bars...
It's a distance/force/time thing, not just a force/distance issue.

All the same dats some bad juju..best avoid it anyhooo.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

I think my 100cc 1050 with the 24' kicks back faster and more violently than the 36"er. I think the weight of the 36 loses energy faster as it comes up. I make darned sure I'm well over the log before setting the bar down to cut. Years ago I aproached a log non chalantly with the 24 and cracked the throttle and had the tip hit the edge of the log and that thing was in my face, like now. I learn fast and pay attenion, that was 35 years or more ago and I haven't done the exact thing again. I've had other kick backs, but not for cracking the throttle before I'm over the log, Joe.

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

Maybe we can put this to rest at the WI/MN GTG in March.

 

[SawTroll]

Sawtroll, you have a memory like an elephant! lol
Here's my last saw cut with a small top handled 020, kickback induced while cutting skids. lol
John

Looks like a painful....:jawdrop:


.....but also like you one-handed the saw.