Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I don't know anything about Intenz bar setups, but how does the style of cutters or rakers on the chain effect the bar staying in place, causing it to slip?
Gregg,
The more aggressive chain pulls the bar back due to taking more bite into the wood. Have you ever planed any wood by hand?
sefh3
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We must have the same computer, I just see red x's also.
Gregg,
Glad it's not just me.
I don't know anything about Intenz bar setups, but how does the style of cutters or rakers on the chain effect the bar staying in place, causing it to slip?
Gregg,
It don't have any effect on it. I can see if the bar nuts are not really tight the better chain could have a slight effect on it.
The bar nuts hold the bar in place. The regular in cover adjusters dont hold the bar tight either, there only held in the cover with a little metal clip. After you run one, check the adjuster screw and see if it's tight. It won't be.
sefh3
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As you can see I'm kinda orange and white fan but I have picked up a 306A and 3400 with another one coming this weekend. I kind of like em. Parts are alot cheaper than the orange and white ones. Looks like I might be hanging around this thread for awhile.
You better start tighting your bar nuts tighter then.
Hey, we don't want to hear about your troubles! :hmm3grin2orange:
CGC4200
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Poulan Pro 260
I have one, a type 3, I think from the -3 on end of serial # sticker.
It does not need the special tool for carburetor adjustment, only needle
nose pliers to pull off limiter caps. I set the carb they way I wanted it
& reinstalled. They help hold a rubber grommet in place that keeps
the air box semi-sealed. It is a clean air/air injection/turbo design.
It still has the Intenze bar, but I swapped the chain to a Carlton
N1C-BL. Bailey's carries the same chain in Woodland Pro without
bumper drive link.
I have one, a type 3, I think from the -3 on end of serial # sticker.
It does not need the special tool for carburetor adjustment, only needle
nose pliers to pull off limiter caps. I set the carb they way I wanted it
& reinstalled. They help hold a rubber grommet in place that keeps
the air box semi-sealed. It is a clean air/air injection/turbo design.
It still has the Intenze bar, but I swapped the chain to a Carlton
N1C-BL. Bailey's carries the same chain in Woodland Pro without
bumper drive link.
That's one of the bad designs of the PP220 and PP260, if you tighten the bar nuts enough to hold the aggressive chain you can feel the plastic case yield. There is no back-up plate behind the bar bolt.
I know what your mean but I have never seen the problem with what your saying.
As you can see I'm kinda orange and white fan but I have picked up a 306A and 3400 with another one coming this weekend. I kind of like em. Parts are alot cheaper than the orange and white ones. Looks like I might be hanging around this thread for awhile.
I like orange and white, my daytons are orange with white writing. Those orange and white ones right?
That Poulan Pro looks like the one I have, probably with one exception; mine has almost no compression! I took the (silver) muffler off and the piston looks like it was drug behind a car! I think some pieces of the muffler are missing. I think there is a gasket or spacer between the muffler and engine, mine doesn't have anything there just muffler next to engine. Looks like I have some work to do.
Was that all the muffler parts you have? Mine has the spacers that the bolts go into to keep muffler from being squashed when you tighten bolts. Also I think there's a gasket and/or spacer behind muffler. Your piston looks a lot better than mine!
KMB
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There is a gasket that is stuck to the back of the muffler and back plate (not shown) that goes between the cylinder and muffler. Of course there are the 2 bolts that attach the muffler pieces to the cylinder. According to the IPL I have it's all there. The piece with all the holes is what keeps the muffler from being squashed when the bolts are tightened.
I might have missed it, is your saw a PP260 also?
Kevin
No, mine's a PP 3516 but looks somewhat like yours. Mine is missing the piece behind the muffler. I thought I must have dropped it when I took the muffler off but looked all over and can't find it. It might not have been on the saw when I got it. I'll probably make one out of a piece of aluminum.
Thanks again Mark.
I think these are the 3 pics that did not load properly.
Kevin
Kev, looking at the second picture I see they have what Poulan calls a insulator in that exhaust port. That just slips out of the port.
I don't know about porting that and how the best way to deal with the ledge at the inside of the port when that insulator is removed. I know that the port is much larger with it removed for sure.
Looks like the port on the muffler would have to be opened also.
You see what I mean on that muffler, it is a breeze. Drilling the front will do much more then opening those little slits in the back.
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ha, I had not noticed that insulator. Good eye! Something else to fiddle with. I see in my IPL that only the Type 1,2,3 shows that part.
I did notice that the spark plug boot is torn, but still looks intact. Looks like if the boot is messed up, I have to get another coil since the plug wire is one with the coil.
Kevin
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