Bore cut felling?

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In my falling and felling experience as a faller and feller, I believe there are only three real reasons to plunge.
#1 To make it appear that you know what you're doing because GOL says to do it.

#2 To rip out the heart behind the hinge to prevent butt shatter and fibre pull on leaners.

#3 To rip out the heart thru the undercut to prevent fibre pull when using shorter bars.

All other plunging is merely perfunctory unless someone can come up with a viable reason to plunge except in the odd bucking situation or your from Europe. Lol
Gypo
 
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DAMN Gary, you is really scarin me with all that techno talk!

BTW whats the Coos Bay look like? i have herd of it but cant picture it and that is unacceptable!
:cheers:




If a tree is a heavy leaner and will go the way of the lean without any hinge to steer it, you can cut it up with a strip like a hinge holding the tree up side ways.
Think of it as a hinge holding up a heavy side leaner and ripping the hinge out of it.
You just cut a kerf in the sides and leave the wood in the middle holding the tree up and the kerf will close and keep it from falling over side ways.
Then you rip the long narrow piece of wood out and let er fall the way she's leaning. It will greatly reduce fiber pull and eliminate barber chair. There are some variations that can be used to steer it some after it starts moving.
 
Looks like that leather mitt would aslo make a good beer holder. Lol
What kind of beer is that in the pic and what% of alcohol?
Gypo

The beer is my favourite bitter beer it is the only beer I will touch over here in New Zealand 4% alcohol content (not strong enough? my home brew is 10%) the name on the can is waikato (pronounced y-cat-o). Oh and for the record that is an empty can that I use as an ash tray i never drink any alcohol while sharpening my saw at home after a day out cutting.
 
The beer is my favourite bitter beer it is the only beer I will touch over here in New Zealand 4% alcohol content (not strong enough? my home brew is 10%) the name on the can is waikato (pronounced y-cat-o). Oh and for the record that is an empty can that I use as an ash tray i never drink any alcohol while sharpening my saw at home after a day out cutting.

pu$$y
 
Oh and for the record that is an empty can that I use as an ash tray i never drink any alcohol while sharpening my saw at home after a day out cutting.

Sure...... you don't Lol

A guy could get pretty **** faced on 10%. Here in Canada our strongest beer is 6% Black Ice and Extra Stock, but you get a wicked hangover.
Gypo
 
DAMN Gary, you is really scarin me with all that techno talk!

BTW whats the Coos Bay look like? i have herd of it but cant picture it and that is unacceptable!
:cheers:

If a tree is a heavy leaner and will go the way of the lean without any hinge to steer it, you can cut it up with a strip like a hinge holding the tree up side ways.
Think of it as a hinge holding up a heavy side leaner and ripping the hinge out of it.
You just cut a kerf in the sides and leave the wood in the middle holding the tree up and the kerf will close and keep it from falling over side ways.
Then you rip the long narrow piece of wood out and let er fall the way she's leaning. It will greatly reduce fiber pull and eliminate barber chair. There are some variations that can be used to steer it some after it starts moving.

Joesawyer explained it pretty good... You can cut in the sides like a "T", or a "triangle", depending on how much holding wood you need. For a severe lean I will use a "triangle" since there will be more holding wood. Then bring the saw up in RPM, and rip like a mutha through the back of the "T", or "triangle".

This was taught to me by a very experience faller from Oregon... also Gerry Beranek had showed the 2 differences to me some time ago.

Here is a diagram... hope it explains it... I even used Powerpoint... now my brain hurts...

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Gary
 
I have used that "T" cut alot. benefits of having a 20'' bar when your over in east coast hardwood country. That 20 is just the right size for getting all in the hardwood guts like that. I am gonna have to try the triangle deal. The gray matter tellls me that it wont work that well on hardwood. I have had white oaks open up with just alittle bitty square of wood on the pull side of the face.

To me there are so many other ways that are funner & easier than the boring cut;(face,plunge behind each side of holding wood and release) that **** is for the birds...

I never knew you knew Jerry Gary. That man knows his stuff I believe. . .

BTW thats a PRO job on the power point Gary!
 
The big traingle works well on Big softwoods. Not sure how it would work on the hardwoods you're used to. We usually get some wicked leaning Alders around here, and the T works great on those. Gerry had showed me the Triangle... Not sure which one is the "true" Coos Bay cut... but they both work when applied correctly to the situation at hand.

I used my daughters laptop to do that Powerpoint diagram some time ago... Almost makes me feel not so knuckledraggerish... :laugh:

Gary
 
I read somewhere about a cut similar to the triangle cut but your aimed lay is where the triangle points, no face... Its not a directional deal but a flopper.
 
Yep... I've seen that too. Never used it myself, but have seen it used.

Hey there whippersnapper... isn't it past your bedtime? :laugh: It's almost 1am here so it's gotta be pretty late there. :)

I'm out for the night... later mang!

Gary
 
Its one here too Old fart. Im still tryin to migrate haha. I need one of them flying carpets..... but sleep sounds good, im getting hungary, that means I need to get to sleep quick before I go and tear the kitchen apart....
 
I've used the triangle back-cut on heavy leaning DF. . . I cut the cheeks of the face with it too and it helps with stump pull. :cheers:
 
Yep... I've seen that too. Never used it myself, but have seen it used.

Hey there whippersnapper... isn't it past your bedtime? :laugh: It's almost 1am here so it's gotta be pretty late there. :)

I'm out for the night... later mang!

Gary

Yeah, sure...you kids go on and get your beauty sleep. I'm just getting and going to work...gonna sneak up on the trees in the dark.

That Coos Bay cut is a good one. You can vary it different ways a little and generally the wood goes where you want it. I've heard it called different things in different places but I've used it and seen it used.
 
Who took a leak in your cornflakes. I am not feeling the forester love. I suppose that anybody with an education regardless of work experience is an idiot.

Not at all. What a college degree means to me is that you were given some unique information and training and you managed to remember enough of it to get the minimum passing grade on enough exams that after four years they gave you a piece of paper and tossed you out into the world.

It's what you do with the education, and how you apply it, that matters. Don't confuse education with knowledge. Most people know the difference.

And, please, learn to cuss right if you're going to be talking to loggers. It's not "who took a leak in your cornflakes"...that's lame. It's "who pissed on your Cheerios this morning"...you need to work on this stuff.

And as for not feeling the forester love? We all love sensible foresters...you could learn a lot from them. And you probably should.
 
By the way, there's a few loggers out there with "educations" too. They might have more than you. Never, ever assume your piece of paper trumps years of experience.

During the 80s, it was rumored that there was a faller who was a burnt out opera singer from the East. There was quite a variety of backgrounds working in the woods then.

There's a junior high drop out who can come up with a height quicker than using Logger PC how high he's got to rig a tail tree. He'll come up with the same answer as the computer. I checked him for fun once.

College education is a good thing, but NEVER stop learning. If a logger is doing something new to you, ask questions. Seems like a lot of folks I work with assume they have no more to learn after they get that piece of paper. Makes me want to urinate in their granola....:) Drum roll please. Now back to you fallers.....:popcorn:
 
Hey Gary thanks for the diagram! I've been having a hard time picturing it myself. I have used that on occasion, but if the bar is long enough to plunge all the way thru behind the hinge I'll work to the back and leave a strap on heavy headed forward leaners. It beats walkin around the tree, but hardwood is different. I think the Kid is right on the triangle on hardwoods. Sometimes the saw is not fast enough to get there in time.

Boring is just another tool in the bag. Every tree, ground, and situation is different. There is no catch all and hardwood felling is a hell of a lot different from softwood I believe. Its about knowing when and what to use not just standard procedure for every damn tree. Those GOL guys must go thru a hell of a lot of fuel! I think the same for a lot of the Euro vids I have seen.

Some of the guys who really know what the hell they are talking about on this site should have a special symbol or something next to their username for newbs or guys who just don't know. Theres about a dozen or so that hang out in this forum regularly that I would designate for that insignia.
 
Not at all. What a college degree means to me is that you were given some unique information and training and you managed to remember enough of it to get the minimum passing grade on enough exams that after four years they gave you a piece of paper and tossed you out into the world.

It's what you do with the education, and how you apply it, that matters. Don't confuse education with knowledge. Most people know the difference.

Those are very wise words. My brother was an "expert" at attending college. He would "cram" one week before a test, pass the test, then a week later forget everything! He basically wasted 4 years of his life. He never "learned how to learn".

And that is important these days with all the new technology and things changing constantly. If someone can learn something new on their own, then they can do anything.

Following is a link to a biography of a person with just a high school education who could run circles around many college educated engineers.

Note: ["...When he enlisted Yeager was not eligible for flight training because of his age and educational background..."]...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chuck_Yeager
 
Sure...... you don't Lol

A guy could get pretty **** faced on 10%. Here in Canada our strongest beer is 6% Black Ice and Extra Stock, but you get a wicked hangover.
Gypo

Oh lets just say if you get stuck into that 10% stuff of mine the hangover will last more than a day,
 
I'll let the others handle the bore cutting issue , I know what works for me and I can't see myself spending 5 days on a 2 day lot .
I think Yukonsawman might have to come to the Maritimes to get a better selection of beer .
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This one make all others that I have had on the weak side .
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Just a few of the 239+ beers that we have in our stores .


:cheers:
 

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