Homelite Chainsaws
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Wow you do good work! Both them saws look amazing!
Thanks for the compliment! A lot of the credit goes to AS members for contributing their knowledge of saws and getting me started. Thanks to all!
BTW, I found a NIB 60" bar for that 1050 - how does it look?
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No really it looks bad ass!
Looks heavy. I think the 1050 might struggle with that bar, but your neighbors would never know! I have that exact bar (got it years ago) and a spare roller tip that I'm leaning towards combining for my gear drives.
Chris B.
Looks heavy. I think the 1050 might struggle with that bar, but your neighbors would never know! I have that exact bar (got it years ago) and a spare roller tip that I'm leaning towards combining for my gear drives.
Chris B.
HAHA, you're probably right just a little too nose heavy! The Acres site shows a 60" listed for the 1050E (my other one) but I don't see any difference between the two other than the carb and intake. Any ideas why the different lengths? Maybe 5/8" vs 3/4" clutch?
Couldn't say why the difference--never owned a 1050. Mike Acres website isn't perfect, though. I wouldn't try to run a 60" on my Super 2100, and that saw is alot more power and an even wider clutch than your 1050. That 60" bar was probably made solely for the gear drives, particularly the 3100.
All the same, you enjoy that bar. I'm betting nobody around you has a saw that can touch that 1050.
Chris B.
I somehow missed this post as well.
As for a 3100, I would say it is one of Homelites rarer saws.
I have been lucky to have found 3 for my collection but have
only seen maybe 2 on ebay in the past 5 years or so. If you
really want that style saw you might want to consider the 3100's
little brother the Super 1130G. They can be bought very reasonable
and have been on ebay and craigslist lately. They're a very well built
saw with 100cc's of great power. And will pull a 60 incher without
much trouble.
Lee
corsair4360
ArboristSite Member
Bar Differences 1050
I had a XP1000 the predecessor to the 1050. At the Homelite dealer in Bountiful Utah in 1970 I saw a 108 inch bar for the XP1000s and such. Long, I wanted no part of carrying it or attempting to work with the monster. It was hanging on a peg from the ceiling. Mine had a 36" bar, and was well balanced and would pull a full comp chain (404) in seasoned dry oak without any problem with the bar buried.
I had a XP1000 the predecessor to the 1050. At the Homelite dealer in Bountiful Utah in 1970 I saw a 108 inch bar for the XP1000s and such. Long, I wanted no part of carrying it or attempting to work with the monster. It was hanging on a peg from the ceiling. Mine had a 36" bar, and was well balanced and would pull a full comp chain (404) in seasoned dry oak without any problem with the bar buried.
Youre prolly right - it even has the knockout for the stinger handle. Yeah, it will be for display only. Got the 36" on my other one and while still a little nose heavy, it handles it fine.
Can't imagine a 108.
One of my 36" bars has the knock out for the stinger, and it's knocked out. How hard are the helper handles to find? I wouldn't mind having one for display. The 5-30 I was looking at has a helper handle, would it be the same? Joe.
kentuckydiesel
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for all the advice. While I do really want a 3100g, I have also been looking for an 1130g, and 2100s. I'll start looking for 750s too.
So far I haven't found even one complete saw in any of these models.
-Phillip
So far I haven't found even one complete saw in any of these models.
-Phillip
Guys, I spent the afternoon finding my brain and tape measure. That bar is 50", not 60". What can I say?
Ozzie
ArboristSite Member
150 Air Gap Shim
My son and I tore into his 150 today to clean it up and see why it would not make spark. We emory clothed the rotor and removed the coil (this one has electronic ignition) but did not measure the gap between the rotor and coil. The IPL lists a .0125" shim between the coil and rotor. What's so special about the shim? Can't a feeler gauge work instead? My next step is test the condensor. I would think a condensor would fail before the coil would.
The 150 is a saw you either love or hate. Removing the engine from the case is not hard but does pose some trouble-shooting issues. Can't wait to run the whopping 43 cc's in such a small saw.
My son and I tore into his 150 today to clean it up and see why it would not make spark. We emory clothed the rotor and removed the coil (this one has electronic ignition) but did not measure the gap between the rotor and coil. The IPL lists a .0125" shim between the coil and rotor. What's so special about the shim? Can't a feeler gauge work instead? My next step is test the condensor. I would think a condensor would fail before the coil would.
The 150 is a saw you either love or hate. Removing the engine from the case is not hard but does pose some trouble-shooting issues. Can't wait to run the whopping 43 cc's in such a small saw.
raycarr
ArboristSite Operative
Dude!!!!
I think he would like this.
I think he would like this.
I dedicate these to you in your absence Randy.
That's not carved in stone. I've set them as close as .005" using typing paper. You must have good main bearings for that close. Sloppy mains I set at .015" using (greeting) cardstock. Just cut a rectangle of paper, put it between the magnet and coil, loosen the coil mounting bolts and the magnet(s) will grab the coil. Tighten the screws and you're ready to go.
67L36Driver is right on with his post.
Using a shim under both poles ensures easy and even setting. Be sure to hold the coil firmly while tightening the screws - they may have a tendency to twist the coil back a little.
Sprintcar
Chainsaw Slut
An XL Super 2 It Ain't
Ozzie
ArboristSite Member
Thanks, folks. This is exactly what I needed to know. We'll set it up correctly Monday night and let you know if we get spark.
