Buying a new saw........can't decide

[Shrug]

Well, I would say BIG is over 3 feet across...............as far as how often, I would say about a quarter to half of the time I cut stuff up for them it always turns into a big job. They are like oh yeah, could you cut that one down for me and cut it up as well.......it never fails.

 

[blsnelling]

IMHO, you're borderline. I wouldn't buy the bigger saw unless going with at least a 42" B&C.

I wouldn't buy the 3120 simply because of the non-adjustable carb. For $100, the rev-limited coil on the 880 can be replaced and you'll have a saw that runs like it should and can be tuned.

They're not all that impressive stock.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cjVnMH9cC7Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here's what a ported 880 can run like.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kS1uD7L7d7U?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lqjdp4PPzL4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here's my 084 with a 50" bar and 9-pin rim.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/b1vrZwv2Ojo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Same saw in Beech.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/c0Z0Dc6O7FU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


I realize you're not discussing porting the 880. I'd MUCH rather run a ported 395 or 660 than a stock 880 or 3120. No question about it.

 

[blsnelling]

BTW, I'm not trying to sell you a ported saw either. I just know that a stock 3120 or 880 can be a real let down. I suggest you also throw the MS660 in the mix. It's a very torquey saw capable of pulling a long B&C.

 

[Shrug]

You make some very good points. Here is what I am currently thinking. Based on what you said I will probably go with a ported 395XP, or a ported 660. As I have mentioned before, NO ONE in my area does that kind of work. Do you port saws? And if so how much do you charge for that type of work? I definitely will not buy a saw that costs as much as a 3120 or a 880 and then get a bunch of work done to them, I just can't justify that to myself. If I did this for a living then yeah I would, but since I only make some extra cash from it I don't wanna spend two thousand plus dollars. So, I will probably go with the 395XP and get it woods ported and put the BB kit in it. That should be more than enough for my needs. I do plan to run a 42" bar on it a lot of the time, but the majority of the time it would probably be running a 36" bar. Anyway, please get back to me and let me know if you do port work.

 

[blsnelling]

Again, I don't want you to think I'm just trying to sell you a port job, but it does make a big difference in the power of a saw.

I highly recommend you stick with the OEM topend. The trade off of a 2mm bigger bore is not worth it for the inconsistent quality of the BB kits. If yours is trashed, then it is a consideration, but certainly not on a good running saw.

 

[Shrug]

Hey, thanks for the advice...........I really appreciate it. I got your PM and I will be getting in touch with you when I make my decision.

 

[mdavlee]

A ported 660 or 395 will pull a 41" bar with full comp in oak pretty easily. It will be as fast as a stock 880 or 3120. We ran all of them at a gtg early this year and the ported 90cc saws were ahead of the stock 120cc saws.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Oscar, I tried to reply to your PM.....but your mailbox is full and it would not send it through.


I am located in Western PA..........about an hour north of Pittsburgh PA, if you know where that is.


I am leaning toward the 395XP myself, and what you guys have said does make sense. I figure I can put a BB kit on it and maybe get a port job done on it. Trouble is that NO ONE in my area does port work and I don't really wanna send a new saw through the mail......if ya know what I mean.

All new saws go through some kind of shipping unless you go to the factory to pick it up....just kiddin'

 

[SkippyKtm]

I would go for a 090 forget the rest.

The Stihl 090 Cant be beat! 13hp baby:msp_w00t: If you want the ultimate power then 090 is the way to go.

<a href="http://s518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/?action=view&amp;current=PICT5650.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT5650.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/?action=view&amp;current=PICT5649.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT5649.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[MacLaren]

I think your real decision is between the 395/660.
I also feel you could go either way and not be hurt. They are prolly the 2 best saw in their class in the world. I would put both in my hands and then choose. I have owned both and both are truly fantastic saws.

 

[jrr344]

The Stihl 090 Cant be beat! 13hp baby:msp_w00t: If you want the ultimate power then 090 is the way to go.

<a href="http://s518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/?action=view&amp;current=PICT5650.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT5650.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/?action=view&amp;current=PICT5649.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT5649.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I dont really see how you could go wrong with the 090 it is the saw for every occasion.

 

[cuttingintime]

I just won"t to say this is a very informative thread.

 

[blsnelling]

Just to complicate this for you, I can get you a new 395XP for $975, PHO.

 

[Shrug]

Hmmmmmm, a new 395XP for $975 huh? Would that be a stock saw? Or would that be with the work that I was gonna get done to my 390XP already done to it? I imagine that is probably just stock....then again my local dealer sells the 395XP for over $1200 if you just walk in and buy one with a bar and everything already set up. Please get back to me and let me know the details. Also, if this is just for a stock saw........it sounds like you have access to it since you said that you could get it for me. So, if I decided to buy it......and it is in fact stock, would there be a way that you could pick it up....do the work we talked about.....and then ship it out to me? Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to weigh out all my options before I make my decision.

 

[blsnelling]

Hmmmmmm, a new 395XP for $975 huh? Would that be a stock saw? Or would that be with the work that I was gonna get done to my 390XP already done to it? I imagine that is probably just stock....then again my local dealer sells the 395XP for over $1200 if you just walk in and buy one with a bar and everything already set up. Please get back to me and let me know the details. Also, if this is just for a stock saw........it sounds like you have access to it since you said that you could get it for me. So, if I decided to buy it......and it is in fact stock, would there be a way that you could pick it up....do the work we talked about.....and then ship it out to me? Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to weigh out all my options before I make my decision.

That is a brand new, stock saw, power head only. I can do the mods and ship it to you, just as you mentioned. Actually, I do this quite often. Just add the mods to the $975 and you've got yourself a new, ported 395XP.

 

[Andyshine77]

Some very good advice has already been given, but I'll add my .02

I personally would just port the 390 and keep my chains nice and sharp. With that said, both the 660 and 395 will have a bit more bottom end. The 660 is lighter than the 395, but I here the 395 balances better with long bars + it's smoother.

 

[Shrug]

Now that right there seems like the ticket. Let me ask you this. Is there any kind of a time frame on which this would have to be done, or any kind of a rush? For example, is this price of $975 like a one time thing for this particular saw.......or is this, as you said, part of a common deal that you are able to offer all the time? I only ask because it will probably be about two weeks until I am able to save up the rest of the money.

 

[blsnelling]

Now that right there seems like the ticket. Let me ask you this. Is there any kind of a time frame on which this would have to be done, or any kind of a rush? For example, is this price of $975 like a one time thing for this particular saw.......or is this, as you said, part of a common deal that you are able to offer all the time? I only ask because it will probably be about two weeks until I am able to save up the rest of the money.

Only thing to change it is if Husky jacks their prices. I doubt that will happen in the next couple of weeks.

 

[mdavlee]

That's about the going price for a 395. I can get one from my local dealer with a 20" b/c for $1025. I think you'll be happy with a 395 for the big bars.

 

[ShadeTreeWelder]

A ported 660 or 395 will pull a 41" bar with full comp in oak pretty easily. It will be as fast as a stock 880 or 3120. We ran all of them at a gtg early this year and the ported 90cc saws were ahead of the stock 120cc saws.

Question I was just at my dealer and the book does not show a 41" bar for the MS 660. And the 41" bars took a .404 chain. My question is what has to be done to get the saw to run 41" bars?

I am clearing 3/4" of roadway for the local Township road commissioner and there are some big trees. I'll bury even a 41" bar in them.

I will add for the OP, I have had my MS660 for 3 years now, it's a beast. I love the thing, in big wood you gotta have a big saw, but with that said 60-70% of my work is still done with my 17 year old 039.

Starting my 12 year old son out on a MS 180C.