McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah, doesn't work so well. I did find that it lists an AC cs45T, which is a NGK BM6F or DJ8J Champion. If your cylinder does not have the trapered plug hole, use something that has the washer/gasket with a similar nose design, not projected, and heat range, which translates to me as a 7 or 8.

I don't think it's tapered. CJ4, CJ8 both have a gasket and are pretty short so I think CJ6 trial with upgrade to CJ8 makes sense from all the input.
 
I don't think it's tapered. CJ4, CJ8 both have a gasket and are pretty short so I think CJ6 trial with upgrade to CJ8 makes sense from all the input.

Only the top 1/16 or so would be tapered, and its possible that has been mussed up. Or that it wasn't tapered. I like them choices in another brand. Parts there yet?
 
Here are a couple of photo's of the used File-N-Joint as well as the new one still in the package.

196671d1314372393-dscn5122-jpg


196672d1314372394-dscn5125-jpg


And a few of the stuff I trade with 54 Stude for,

196673d1314372395-dscn5128-jpg


196674d1314372396-dscn5129-jpg


196675d1314372397-dscn5139-jpg



Mark
 
Only the top 1/16 or so would be tapered, and its possible that has been mussed up. Or that it wasn't tapered. I like them choices in another brand. Parts there yet?

I agree but I don't know the proper cross references.

Parts are still MIA, I once shipped a John Deere saw to north end of Montana took almost 45 days for USPS to get it there :msp_scared:
 
Here are the pics of the Super 44A's crank and clutch... you can clearly (well, pretty clearly anyways) see the messed up key way and crank surface... the gouge is around 1/8 deep or slightly more at its worst point.

attachment.php


The clutch shows damage as well.

attachment.php


So... as I said earlier, this saw will be shelved for a while, while I get the others done... and once I find a crank for it, then I'll fix it up.

I really don't feel like tearing any more saws down... I want to put the three that I want to run back together before I even think about taking another one apart. To be quite frank, I'm all out of room for another torn down saw.

The 790, Pioneer NU-17, and the Poulan 3100 something or another are priorities. I will not tear down another saw until those are done first.



Also, I am kinda screwed... I gave a guy at a shop my cell number... he says he has had many, many customers come in and ask if he could fix their old saw. At one point years ago, he stopped working on them because of the difficulties usually associated with the old iron. (white death, carb problems, etc. he said things just seemed to pile up when working on them)

Sad thing is, he used to have a #### load of old saws... but, years ago, he scrapped them all. :msp_ohmy: :msp_sad:

However, things may line up and before I know it, I've got saws up the arse, in the rafters, on the shelves, on the ceiling, on the floor, and buried in sealed boxes underground... some customers may be happy that their old saw runs, and I might end up with an old saw that doesn't as a bonus to the money that I made on the repairs...

It'd be like another guy that I know... he has a barn full of old cars, parts, and more. He has three old cars buried under his pole barn floor. Yep, buried. They probably aren't very solid anymore...

I gotta see that guy's place... :popcorn:
 
Last edited:
Meeting with Mark was enjoyable!

It was nice meeting with Mark and swapping saws and parts. All of the MAC stuff came from a shop in northwestern WI that went out of business in '86. The Sachs-Dolmar 123 Mark traded me is a sweet saw, and I also got a McCulloch 250, and a few large Husky bars as part of the deal. I think both of us were happy with the trade, and it was really fun to meet another AS member!

I enjoyed watching Mark sorting McCulloch drums and parts by model with a glance, he is sure a knowledgeable guy when it comes to yellow saws and parts!

I still have a bunch of Jonsered stuff left from the same lot, so I am hinting that if someone is willing to pick up parts in the twin cities MN, PM and we can talk.
 
A few more 10 Series and consumer saw bars

196686d1314373407-dscn5138-jpg


Mark

Great score Mark. The 250 I parted out recently had a Remington style RN bar on it like just the one above the date code in your pic. My bar doesn't look to have been altered to work on the McCulloch. The saw did also have bar plates that allowed me to run an Oregon 'Duo-Tronic' universal bar (from Cliff when he sent my Homelite 1130G to me) on my McCulloch 650 gear drive. Those plates allowed the 650 to oil that universal bar perfectly.

I'm saving that short RN bar to run on a Super 250 with a 3/8-9 or 3/8-10 pin rim and a loop of square ground for zipping through cants at GTG's:D

That's a nice load Mark. Now I know who to contact when I need some 10 series parts.:msp_smile:

+1:D
 
Last edited:
10 Series Gear Drive

I finally found my first 10 Series gear drive saw, not sure of the model but the stamp on the bottom says 2-3009 (I think). I will guess it is a 2-10G but I'm all ears (or eyes) if someone has a better idea.

This one came to me with the wrong front handle, but I had a NOS wrap handle in the attice that fits nicely. I ended up swapping out the carburetor, not sure what was up with the carburetor in the saw but it was all out of whack, not the original carburetor for this saw anyway. Last weekend at Baraboo (where I got this saw) someone stopped by looking for advice on getting a carburetor kit for a Target cut off saw - based on the 795 power head; I told him about customchainsawparts on e-Bay selling the Sugar Creek kits, he stopped by later to give me a box of 10 Series parts including a clutch that I passed on to Marty (Kingsley) for his PM700, and a carburetor that I put on this saw after adding the spring to the metering lever (maybe that was why the other guy's saw did not run?).

Finally, clean the points and change the spark plug and it now starts and runs very nicely. Oiler does not work at all, neither automatic or manual so that will require some attention another day.

The bar was originally for a 10 Series but the seller I got it from had modified one of the "Yooper" bars to fiit (I just had a flash, that may be what's wrong with the oiler as the holes are in different spots). I have not seen a 3/8 sprocket on a gear drive before but it seems reasonable on this one.

196831d1314493763-dscn5143-jpg


196832d1314493766-dscn5144-jpg


196833d1314493769-dscn5145-jpg


196834d1314493771-dscn5146-jpg


196835d1314493774-dscn5147-jpg


Mark
 
Last edited:
All of the bars this week (from 54Stude) are for 10 Series or Mini/Consumer Macs including that little roller nose.

Old photo below , but you can see a large Remmington roller nose at the top, and an Oregon DuoTronic with the universal mounts and bar plates, plus a couple of Generals. This lot of parts came from Brian & Tina at APSE almost two years ago.

196836d1314494782-dscn0990-jpg


Mark
 
That was quite a haul too Mark. The Remington RN I was refering to is the type where two plates connect the bar to the roller, like the X-10 series bar in your pic you posted earlier. The bar in your pic above looks more like a General, Cannon, or Oregon (with the Torrington type roller). That NOS Duo-Tronic bar is sweet. Mine's in nice shape, but not that nice. The logo style is different too. Here's a pic of it on My dirty 790.

000_0190.jpg


Here's a closeup of a little 12" Remington-type RN bar on my Remington/Wards SL-9/Power Kraft 2.8. The 15-16" RN bar I took off of that McCulloch 250 has a roller nose like this. No markings on the bar that I can find at all (other than "Remington" on one of the 'plates' on the tip)...

100_3608.jpg
 
Last edited:
That was quite a haul too Mark. The Remington RN I was refering to is the type where two plates connect the bar to the roller, like the X-10 series bar in your pic you posted earlier. The bar in your pic above looks more like a General, Cannon, or Oregon (with the Torrington type roller). That NOS Duo-Tronic bar is sweet. Mine's in nice shape, but not that nice. The logo style is different too. Here's a pic of it on My dirty 790.

Creamsickle Alert in the background!

:yoyo:
 
Creamsickle Alert in the background!

:yoyo:

Yeah Ted.................I get hell every time I post one of the pics from that set (shot in the same location). That's my little beater brush saw. Goes in to do the dirty, scratchy work in Junipers, bushes, and such. Saves the paint on the 'vintage' saws.:D

I've since moved all my saws from the garage to shelves on the shop. The little creamsicle 011AVEQ won't be 'fouling' any more Homelite, McCulloch, or Poulan pics...:jester:
 
Last edited:
Here's a pic with little Rachel sitting between the smallest and largest saws I had at the time. Poulan XX/Craftsman 1.9 (with 1/4" chain) and Mark's McCulloch 77 (with 5/8" chain). I took the bar off of the 77 so both powerheads, the sprout, and the bars and chains could all be together. Also visible is the rotted muffler Mark replaced, and the large mud dauber nest that was inside said muffler. Thank GOD the piston had closed off the cylinder while the saw was sitting. That kept the little bastards from building a nest in the jug. Both saws together probably weighed more than the kid at the time...

100_3326.jpg
 
Last edited:
I finally found my first 10 Series gear drive saw, not sure of the model but the stamp on the bottom says 2-3009 (I think). I will guess it is a 2-10G but I'm all ears (or eyes) if someone has a better idea.

This one came to me with the wrong front handle, but I had a NOS wrap handle in the attice that fits nicely. I ended up swapping out the carburetor, not sure what was up with the carburetor in the saw but it was all out of whack, not the original carburetor for this saw anyway. Last weekend at Baraboo (where I got this saw) someone stopped by looking for advice on getting a carburetor kit for a Target cut off saw - based on the 795 power head; I told him about customchainsawparts on e-Bay selling the Sugar Creek kits, he stopped by later to give me a box of 10 Series parts including a clutch that I passed on to Marty (Kingsley) for his PM700, and a carburetor that I put on this saw after adding the spring to the metering lever (maybe that was why the other guy's saw did not run?).

Finally, clean the points and change the spark plug and it now starts and runs very nicely. Oiler does not work at all, neither automatic or manual so that will require some attention another day.

The bar was originally for a 10 Series but the seller I got it from had modified one of the "Yooper" bars to fiit (I just had a flash, that may be what's wrong with the oiler as the holes are in different spots). I have not seen a 3/8 sprocket on a gear drive before but it seems reasonable on this one.

196831d1314493763-dscn5143-jpg


196832d1314493766-dscn5144-jpg


196833d1314493769-dscn5145-jpg


196834d1314493771-dscn5146-jpg


196835d1314493774-dscn5147-jpg


Mark

hey Mark, i got the same problem. I don't know the model of this 10 series gear drive. mine came to me with a half inch chain and a filter cover that doesn't say what it really is. my bar seems to point up a bit more than yours. here is a vid. i can't find any serial number on this one, under the saw or under the filter cover. it must be one of those tags that is held on my a screw in the airbox and someone had removed it.

Mac 2-10 - YouTube
 
Mark, your tank and filter cover is a different style that I got. i call mine a 2-10 and you call your a 2-10. i guess one or both of us has something different than a 2-10.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top