McCulloch Chain Saws

[joeymt33]

the small 10 series gear drives only came three ways, 2-10, 5-10 or G-70 I believe. Mine has a 1/2 inch chain also and it's a G-70.

yeah, according to acres site the 2-1G0 and 5-10G offered the 1/2" chain and the G70 was 1/2" with a .404 option. after looking at the pictures, mark's saw looks like a G-70 and mine looks like a 2-10G or 5-10G

 

[watsonr]

I agree, Mark's looks like a G-70.

 

[Madsaw]

Need info on a SP125c I picked up. How does one determine before taking them down that they have a chrome bore or a cast. I also found a NOS .020 piston and ring set too. My saw is scored but I have yet to run a compression check on it. Also what carb is needed to switch it over to a fully adjustable one.
Thanks
Bob

 

[Eccentric]

Need info on a SP125c I picked up. How does one determine before taking them down that they have a chrome bore or a cast. I also found a NOS .020 piston and ring set too. My saw is scored but I have yet to run a compression check on it. Also what carb is needed to switch it over to a fully adjustable one.
Thanks
Bob

Got a probe magnet Bob? Run the piston down to BDC and reach through the exhaust port into the jug with the probe magnet. If it sticks to the far wall, you have a steel liner. If not, it's chromed. Somebody here posted that before. I can't claim credit for it (although I'd like to).

 

[jeff76]

I finally found my first 10 Series gear drive saw, not sure of the model but the stamp on the bottom says 2-3009 (I think). I will guess it is a 2-10G but I'm all ears (or eyes) if someone has a better idea.

This one came to me with the wrong front handle, but I had a NOS wrap handle in the attice that fits nicely. I ended up swapping out the carburetor, not sure what was up with the carburetor in the saw but it was all out of whack, not the original carburetor for this saw anyway. Last weekend at Baraboo (where I got this saw) someone stopped by looking for advice on getting a carburetor kit for a Target cut off saw - based on the 795 power head; I told him about customchainsawparts on e-Bay selling the Sugar Creek kits, he stopped by later to give me a box of 10 Series parts including a clutch that I passed on to Marty (Kingsley) for his PM700, and a carburetor that I put on this saw after adding the spring to the metering lever (maybe that was why the other guy's saw did not run?).

Finally, clean the points and change the spark plug and it now starts and runs very nicely. Oiler does not work at all, neither automatic or manual so that will require some attention another day.

The bar was originally for a 10 Series but the seller I got it from had modified one of the "Yooper" bars to fiit (I just had a flash, that may be what's wrong with the oiler as the holes are in different spots). I have not seen a 3/8 sprocket on a gear drive before but it seems reasonable on this one.

Mark

Mark,
Nice score on all the parts and great find on the gear drive 10-series. I never realized that they even made any of those. Thats the first one that I have seen. What kind of reduction did they have and how long of a bar would you expect them to be able to handle reasonably?

Jeff

 

[Madsaw]

Got a probe magnet Bob? Run the piston down to BDC and reach through the exhaust port into the jug with the probe magnet. If it sticks to the far wall, you have a steel liner. If not, it's chromed. Somebody here posted that before. I can't claim credit for it (although I'd like to).

Thanks for the info. That is a very simple idea. The muffler is not tight on the saw so it will be easy. I also got a new muffler from the same place as the piston.
Bob

 

[stinkbait]

Here is my 5-10G

Acres site says that the 5-10G is 54cc with a 1.75" bore, but I have found that to be false. My 5-10G has a 2" bore. That would make it 72cc. I used a straw that came with a can of carb cleaner to measure my bore through the carb. I turned the cylinder over until the skirt of the piston was above the intake port and then slid the straw through the carb until it bottomed out on the opposite side of the cylinder. Then I rotated the flywheel until the piston skurt moved down and crushed the straw at the intake port's edge. My 5-10G also has a decompression valve controled by the on/off switch. I also run .404 chain on an 8-toothed sprocket that I got from Discount Marine.

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[ChainsawmanXX]

Dang I wanna see some of these 10 series G-drive saws in wood.
That saw looks sweet Stink

 

[briantutt]

10-10 rings

10-10 Automatic, Put the new rings on the piston, seems weird there is no locator pin. Question, Do I have to adjust the gap of the rings? right now I can squeeze till the ends touch each other.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

the small 10 series gear drives only came three ways, 2-10, 5-10 or G-70 I believe. Mine has a 1/2 inch chain also and it's a G-70.

yeah, according to acres site the 2-1G0 and 5-10G offered the 1/2" chain and the G70 was 1/2" with a .404 option. after looking at the pictures, mark's saw looks like a G-70 and mine looks like a 2-10G or 5-10G

There is two more. LG 6A and Super LG 6A.

Model Profile: LG 6A

Model Profile: SUPER LG 6A

Here is my LG 6A.

And my G-70 automatic.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Acres site says that the 5-10G is 54cc with a 1.75" bore, but I have found that to be false. My 5-10G has a 2" bore. That would make it 72cc. I used a straw that came with a can of carb cleaner to measure my bore through the carb. I turned the cylinder over until the skirt of the piston was above the intake port and then slid the straw through the carb until it bottomed out on the opposite side of the cylinder. Then I rotated the flywheel until the piston skurt moved down and crushed the straw at the intake port's edge. My 5-10G also has a decompression valve controled by the on/off switch. I also run .404 chain on an 8-toothed sprocket that I got from Discount Marine.

In 1966 McCulloch came out with the 5-10G, Had the half wrap handle only.
In 1972 they came out with the 5-10G Automatic, You could order it with
full wrap handle or half wrap.
I see yours is the 5-10G Automatic.

 

[briantutt]

10-10 ring ?

10-10 Automatic, Put the new rings on the piston, seems weird there is no locator pin. Question, Do I have to adjust the gap of the rings? right now I can squeeze till the ends touch each other.

I am quoting myself but since nobody answered yet I just tried to slip everything together "as-is". Everything rotates smoothly. Am I good to go?

 

[Warped5]

I am quoting myself but since nobody answered yet I just tried to slip everything together "as-is". Everything rotates smoothly. Am I good to go?

Hi Brian - You may want to give this answer a day or so, since there are a few Mac experts that may be occupied with concerns over East Coast weather .... :msp_wink:

 

[briantutt]

Hi Brian - You may want to give this answer a day or so, since there are a few Mac experts that may be occupied with concerns over East Coast weather .... :msp_wink:

Good call, I am in no hurry, I will just let her sit until I get some feedback. Thanks for the reminder about the East Coast, weather is beautiful here today and I haven't had the TV on all day.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

I am quoting myself but since nobody answered yet I just tried to slip everything together "as-is". Everything rotates smoothly. Am I good to go?

Mark told me that the rings end gaps should be about 120 degrees apart from each other and to the intake side. Shouldnt have to do much more

 

[watsonr]

there should be some gap. Put the rings in the bore and measure with a feeler gauge, what do you get? Some room for expansion is necessary, most saws require .010-.012 for optimal gap.

 

[briantutt]

Thanks guys, I moved them around to the exhaust side so I could see the gap. It's probably closer to .020, definately bigger than .010. I will move them back to the intake side, 120 apart.

Thanks again on the feedback,

Brian

 

[paccity]

i.d. help please. another one to ad to thestable. it;s derect drive. View attachment 196978View attachment 196979View attachment 196980View attachment 196981

 

[stinkbait]

Dang I wanna see some of these 10 series G-drive saws in wood.
That saw looks sweet Stink

Thanks!

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<iframe width="420" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CXRpmtPJ1mg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

In 1966 McCulloch came out with the 5-10G, Had the half wrap handle only.
In 1972 they came out with the 5-10G Automatic, You could order it with
full wrap handle or half wrap.
I see yours is the 5-10G Automatic.

Yeah, and that auto oiler slings oil too. I have never had to use the manual because the auto keeps the chain wet.

 

[heimannm]

Super 44, enjoy 80 cc's of vintage McCulloch muscle.

Watch out for that rotating flywheel cover, it will burn a whole in your jeans or chaps.

Mark