Andy's Christmas 460 build

[ECsaws]

I'll take some pics of the bars I use to do it tomarrow and post them. they dont have to be anything super special .
Nick unless your doing a new cly remember most of that plating is virgin material so you need to be real careful how far you shove that piston up in there:msp_ohmy:
I have a cly to cut tomarrow I'll try to take some pics of how I do it.

 

[FATGUY]

I understand that hitting the plating is a no no, but the confusion for me lies in the fact that by re-machining the squish band, you expose bare aluminum. So how much can be bare under the newly machined squish band?

 

[ECsaws]

I understand that hitting the plating is a no no, but the confusion for me lies in the fact that by re-machining the squish band, you expose bare aluminum. So how much can be bare under the newly machined squish band?

I would say as long as you leave enough that you dont get the ring into the aluminum? .. I dont take any more that I would pop a piston up once you get past a certain PSI things go into reverse anyways (fights it self)

 

[Metals406]

Nik, I was thinking along these lines. The bar could be made from 1045, and grind the end. Wouldn't be to hard to do, and the bend could be figured for how you needed it. Since the Modulus of Elasticity is the same for hard or soft steel, mass is where you'll buy stiffness for the boring bar.

Eric, I'm also not trying to jack your thread. . .

 

[FATGUY]

Nate, will send you a pm. Erick and Andy, ty you guys for not getting upset that we sort of derailed the thread. I think it's great that you're doing this pro bono and your work clearly speaks for itself. I will limit my posting in this thread to the build.

 

[Mastermind]

I was thinking more along the lines of a fly cutter...

 

[andydodgegeek]

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Hello fellow AS members. I just got home from a long weekend. I drove a fire truck from east central Minnesota to Great falls, Montana. 1100 miles. I just got home and read through this thread. I watched the before and after videos a couple times and I must say that is going to be sweet to own that saw. I loved running the 460 the way it was but it looks like a different animal in the after video. I will be mounting a 25" bar and new stihl chain on to it when I get it, and then I will video some action. I never posted video here before and hope I can figure out how to get it on here. I cant thank Eric enough for this very generous gift. If I know of any one looking to get more power from there saw I will be mentioning his name.

 

[parrisw]

Make ya one then mang. . . Should be fairly straight forward. If you're an insert type guy, ya make a boring bar with an end that the insert will faced forward. Cut here, grind there, drill and tap, done.

I'm sure Nik could hook ya up with ideas, or a tool he already has for cutting a dead-end.

I'm not sure.

This is what I have, just a cheap set.

 

[parrisw]

I'll take some pics of the bars I use to do it tomarrow and post them. they dont have to be anything super special .
Nick unless your doing a new cly remember most of that plating is virgin material so you need to be real careful how far you shove that piston up in there:msp_ohmy:
I have a cly to cut tomarrow I'll try to take some pics of how I do it.

Sweet. I've been actually wanting to try this way for some time now without doing a popup, but never really knew how to go about it. Ive seen the sand paper on the end of the mandrel trick, but thinking that would take forever.

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

This is what I have, just a cheap set.

I use the same cheap boring cutter......but grind relief on the top, right, underside and angle grind the carbid .

 

[parrisw]

I use the same cheap boring cutter......but grind relief on the top, left and underside.

Thanks. They are hard to grind that's for sure, I tried to resharpen one and didn't turn out too well, must try again.

 

[ECsaws]

Nate, will send you a pm. Erick and Andy, ty you guys for not getting upset that we sort of derailed the thread. I think it's great that you're doing this pro bono and your work clearly speaks for itself. I will limit my posting in this thread to the build.

derail away nic your machine experience is astounding!!!! I'm all ears and wanting to learn all I can to:msp_thumbup:
"I" find the biggest trick to cutting these is take nice small slow cuts like .005 at a time !!! you get hungry its gonna tell you it dont like it HA HA HA.
I'm about chucked up on a cly now pics later

 

[ECsaws]

Hey Andy... Saw is boxed and ready for UPS gos out today

 

[stihl038x2]

Here are some of mine. Most can be used in either the lathe or mill.
BTW..... how do you get pics to show up without having to "click" on them ??

Steve

View attachment 211084

 

[ECsaws]

Everyone wanted pics here ya go....
I use a 4 jaw chuck to center everything I tried using a round block in a 3 jaw but there is just to much variance in clys.

This is the boring bar set up I use works well for me just take small cuts have neaver has a issue with anything moving and the bolts dont need to be over tight just snug !!!

I set the cly up in the mill 1st and just shave a little off to make everything sit flat on the Jig ... Flat & square is KEY!!!!

 

[Tzed250]

Untitled by zweitakt250, on Flickr

This is what I bore with. CCMT insert. Set the squish angle on the compound, bore to depth, then cross feed the compound.

 

[FATGUY]

Nice set up Eric. I agree on all counts, less is often more, particularly when tightening something finicky. I'd almost always take multiple light passes versus hogging (not that that doesn't have its place). Less stress on the material and on the tools, not to mention the set-up.

John, are those Valenite BBars? ( I think I have the same ones)

 

[Tzed250]

Nice set up Eric. I agree on all counts, less is often more, particularly when tightening something finicky. I'd almost always take multiple light passes versus hogging (not that that doesn't have its place). Less stress on the material and on the tools, not to mention the set-up.

John, are those Valenite BBars? ( I think I have the same ones)

Chinese knock-offs.

My favorite bars are the Sandvik solid carbide or the Sandvik with the internal vibration dampers.

 

[FATGUY]

Chinese knock-offs.

My favorite bars are the Sandvik solid carbide or the Sandvik with the internal vibration dampers.

big $$$$$

 

[Tzed250]

big $$$$$

Yeah, $500 for a .75" bar