Nik's Poulan Thread

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By the time the Craftsman grey saws came out, Sears was more into standardization of parts. 3.0 in the charts Gregg just posted refers to a chromed? bore of 1.750, slightly bigger than a 3.0. Many, if not all, of the red ones were repaired with the 3.7 jug, so if you owned a 3.4 you were supersized for free under warranty or if you brought there for repair. Our friend Eccentric, having worked there, will confirm or deny this. So the only difference in saws could have been bar size in the grey ones, now I wish the catalog graveyard was still available.

Joe if you look up that saws part # that was posted as a 3.0 on the Sears website the part #'s for the P/C directly cross to Poulan 3400 parts. That tells me that saw is indeed a 3400 and was probably badged as a 3.0 to meet a special price point for Sears for a special promotion.

Much cheaper to just make up a new 3.0 decal then to tool up a new P/C.

The red 3700, the red 3800 and the black and grey 3800's all were available with 20" bars as well. I have some documents supporting this and shows a different part # for the saws depending on what size bar they came with.

Many sears models have indeed had minor changes (often just decals) to meet price point or promotional needs. As far as substituting 'upgrade' parts, we didn't do it as a practice.................................but would end up doing it in certain circumstances. Usually substitutions involved the carburetors found on the various blowers and weed wackers. I'm refering to the "lunchbox" cased wacker and blower engines which used the same basic (crappy) engine (usually minor differences, such as a different crank used in the blowers).

There were about 15,790 different part #'s of Walbro WA/WT carbs used on these machines. If we didn't have the 'right' carb (designated by the IPL) in stock, but DID have another similar model carb (same throttle/choke arms, etc) in stock, then we sometimes would grab what was on the shelf and install it to speed things up for the customer. Usually it was the single needle fixed h-side crap carbs that weren't in stock. We'd replace 'em with fully adjustable carbs. Never had an issue with it. We didn't stock many saw P/C's (they could be ordered from the branch warehouse in a day or two), so the machines always got the parts specified by the IPL's. We did notice that several machines took the same P/C's (specified by the IPL's), despite the decals on the machines 'claiming' different displacements. We did stock wacker engine P/C's and complete shortblocks, as we'd go through several in a week due to the problems with oxygenated gas in the area.
 
You are correct Aaron.

I have posted before that I have found that Poulan would special make a model for another customer as well. I mean the customer wants something special and has a price point to meet so Poulan would make a special version of there exisiting saws to meet that cusomers desires. I'm assuming there would have to be enough volume of these units to make it worth the trouble .

I have for example found that the Poulan 3000 is a chrome bore and that the Craftsman 3.0 version of the same saw is a plain aluminum bore. The part # for the Craftsman P/C is only listed on the Sears IPL.

Another example is some of the Dayton 245's that came with a decomp but no Power Sharp. Poulan never sold a version like that themselves that I have ever seen or can document.

These are just 2 examples that come to mind and I'm sure there are more. Just remember that rebadged Poulan models are "based" on certain Poulan models and while most the time they are exact copies they do have differences sometimes.
 
Remove the muffler.
Place a plastic soda straw (or similar object) in the exhaust port, keeping it as level as possible, to the back side of the cylinder.
Rotate the crank til the piston comes up and contacts the object.
Give it the bite...bite...bite like when the dentist is working on your filling.
Measure the distance from the end that was at the back of the cylinder to where the piston crimped the object against the top of the exhaust port, in mm, and report your findings here!


Mike

I'm going off memory here, so beware!!:msp_unsure:
I think the bore sizes on them are as follows.

3400-- 45mm
3700 & 3800--47mm
4000 ---49mm

If that isn't right, somebody can slap me around. :biggrin:

:cheers:
Gregg,

Well, I have found good news and bad news. I did the straw trick and it is a 47mm bore, so its got the cc's I was hoping for. The really sad news it that it has become a parts saw for now. The jug is scored a little on the exhaust and a lot on the intake side. What do you want for a freebie??, saws were free and I gave 20 bucks for the b&c's. It was suppose to have been a running saw until it sat...maybe it will run but prolly won't cut balsa wood. I might come across another one or parts in my travel some day and I'll go back to it, I still have many more to keep busy with. I thought it might be a keeper. :frown:

Thanks for all the info and help figuring it out.
Dean
 
Well, I have found good news and bad news. I did the straw trick and it is a 47mm bore, so its got the cc's I was hoping for. The really sad news it that it has become a parts saw for now. The jug is scored a little on the exhaust and a lot on the intake side. What do you want for a freebie??, saws were free and I gave 20 bucks for the b&c's. It was suppose to have been a running saw until it sat...maybe it will run but prolly won't cut balsa wood. I might come across another one or parts in my travel some day and I'll go back to it, I still have many more to keep busy with. I thought it might be a keeper. :frown:

Thanks for all the info and help figuring it out.
Dean

Don't lose hope on that saw, Dean. You may be able to clean up that piston & bore a bit, put in a new set of rings and still have a reasonable saw. These saws are not known for high compression. 130 lbs is a reasonable reading on your average saw.
 
Hi All,

Went to grama's today, started cleaning and organizing all of the manuals and such. Not just saws, everything.
this stood out pretty good. One of you guys said you had an Alden saw, here is ours. Dad confirmed this was what
started the ball rolling. He said the dealership started around 71-72??? not real positive on that yet.

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KJC:)

I'll bet that old saw could be made to run with minimal amount of repairs. Maybe fuel lines and carb kit.
 
I'll bet that old saw could be made to run with minimal amount of repairs. Maybe fuel lines and carb kit.

It probably hasn't been run since 2004. It was my gramps "go-to" saw. He kept it up till around then. The T'NT sticker
is for a ski doo. Its always been there, and until 2 weeks ago, I didn't realize it wasn't correct.

Posting my first youtube video now.......

KJC
 
Youtube link

Here is my very first youtube video. I had no idea it would take this long to upload, WOW.
This is 1 of 2 videos I took new years day. I will post the other one maybe wednesday or thursday.
time for bed!


Poulan Chainsaw Advertising - YouTube

KJC

oh, and last name is pronounced Krol 1 syllable, big O (incase anyone was wondering)

English & German
 
saws gotta go

Well guys, I've reached the point where I feel I need to lighten the saw load. I just can't justify having all these saws here in Texas and will never use them. Better they go where they can be used. Problem is I'm torn as to what to sell. I've got a PP655, PP525 and PP 405. I likely paid too much for the 655, so I'll lose my shirt. I have a 80cc saw so I don't need the 525 and obviously I have a 60+ saw so I don't need the 405. I'm thinking PP525 and 405.
Bob
 
Well guys, I've reached the point where I feel I need to lighten the saw load. I just can't justify having all these saws here in Texas and will never use them. Better they go where they can be used. Problem is I'm torn as to what to sell. I've got a PP655, PP525 and PP 405. I likely paid too much for the 655, so I'll lose my shirt. I have a 80cc saw so I don't need the 525 and obviously I have a 60+ saw so I don't need the 405. I'm thinking PP525 and 405.
Bob

--not trying to talk you out of selling your saws, just your sig says "spend time in Vermont". You keep any saws up there? Vermont is one of those places you can and will use any saw you can get your hands on.

So..how much you gonna lose your shirt on that 655...heh. I already know it is outside my wallet stuffin's....
 
Well guys, I've reached the point where I feel I need to lighten the saw load. I just can't justify having all these saws here in Texas and will never use them. Better they go where they can be used. Problem is I'm torn as to what to sell. I've got a PP655, PP525 and PP 405. I likely paid too much for the 655, so I'll lose my shirt. I have a 80cc saw so I don't need the 525 and obviously I have a 60+ saw so I don't need the 405. I'm thinking PP525 and 405.
Bob

I think you described 90% of the people on AS. It definitely described me, I have over 50 saws and cut little wood anymore but when I go through them to figure what to sell I seem to find a reason to keep each one. I find myself buying junkers to sell so I can keep my "good" saws but then I go ahead and fix the junkers also. Sometimes I buy duplicates so I can feel good about keeping the other duplicate. It's kinda like women and shoes except it's harder to sell a used pair of shoes...
 
My first post, need some help with a Poulan!

heya folks! This is my first post here, though I've taken a lot of useful information from these forums in the past. I'm a saw repairman, but I have no training or experience in the field; my boss knew this when he decided to add that to my duties at work. Go fig! Anyhow, I'm mostly doing ok, but I now have a Poulan here, an older one,
model # S25 CVA-38CC.

The carb on it is a Tilloston HU 10A 80

When it was brought it, it was filthy inside and out, all the lines were cracked and crumbling, the gas was ancient and crystalizing. howeer, astonishingly, it ran (before the lines fell apart), but only for a few seconds.

Now, I've replaced all the lines, the filter, checked the compression, rebuilt & cleaned the carb (Twice), and it still starts, runs for a few seconds (15-40), and then dies out. The carb is spraying gas out the air intake pretty bad, and the saw isntantly stalls if I open the choke at all.

I replaced the carb with a brand new unused one that we had in stock, same carb, and it worked slightly better, but I still can't get it to run. I'm wondering if I might have the H (needle) and L (idle) screws in the wrong positions? I haven't been able to find much information on them, but I tried the modern defaults for Poulan saws and it won't even fire with them there. I'm stumped. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Maybe

I think you described 90% of the people on AS. It definitely described me, I have over 50 saws and cut little wood anymore but when I go through them to figure what to sell I seem to find a reason to keep each one. I find myself buying junkers to sell so I can keep my "good" saws but then I go ahead and fix the junkers also. Sometimes I buy duplicates so I can feel good about keeping the other duplicate. It's kinda like women and shoes except it's harder to sell a used pair of shoes...

90%...not so sure. Maybe with the active posters. I know from running and moderating on some really large sites, you are doing good to hit 10% active posters over just readers. I am thinking that most guys who visit this site haven't gotten into mass hoarding, just accumulating a selection of working saws, because they actually need to cut wood.

I know I fall into that latter category, I came here to learn more about saws, because I had a need for a range of saw sizes and so on (I actually *have* to cut wood, firewood, cleanup, thinning, storm damage, etc), and also wanted tips and tricks on repairs, etc, as I am interested in that for a long term geezer working hobby thing eventually, income supplementation. Something I can do when the more physically demanding stuff gets to be a little too hard. Sort of hitting that transition point now.

So, I am not a "collector" just looking for good runners and spare parts and so on. I have little to no desire on having a garage full of shelf queens, no matter how cool they are. Working saws, that's it.

The thing with "collecting" it is good and bad, good because restoration and repair knowledge can be shared, bad, because people who need saws tend to be forced into the brand new market because the older larger saws are bid up pretty high a lot of times, and there are a very small number of collectors who manage to always get oodles of deals, as they are in the position of having enough surplus cash and time to do it. Say someone has a budget of x dollars, they could use say a larger saw, but those are so high, they have to go to the big box stores and settle on a smaller saw than what they really need, then it gets beat on, over worked.

If you can understand what I am saying..good and bad. Same thing happened with the old small garden tractor market, now collectors bid them up pretty high, again, to have a barn full of tractors that don't get used much, just trotted out for display at the antique shows.

I know we joke about CAD here, but I'd say it is a sure bet there's a fine line between collecting and obsessive compulsive hoarding. And that line can get crossed with some people.

I will say though, it is a *good* thing to save these saws from the chinese market metals scrappers.

We will someday look back in history and the decision wall street and the government made to ship all the manufacturing they could to china, then start shipping them all the "scrap" metal, and now energy stuff will be seen as one of the more boneheaded things any nation ever did.
 
Well, I've got plenty of saws in Vermont. Probably 6, from 32cc's up to 88cc's. Everything from a Stihl 015av, 3400, 3700 4000 Ms441 and a 288XP. 30 here in the garage in Texas, taking up space. If I were a young man I'd likely lean towards keeping the Big PP 525 and 655's. Put it his way at $500, I'd lose a little due to the cost of a new oil pump and manual oiler. Don't think it would sell for that price though, but you never can tell. Not trying to hawk the saw on this site, but just venting.
Bob
 
heya folks! This is my first post here, though I've taken a lot of useful information from these forums in the past. I'm a saw repairman, but I have no training or experience in the field; my boss knew this when he decided to add that to my duties at work. Go fig! Anyhow, I'm mostly doing ok, but I now have a Poulan here, an older one,
model # S25 CVA-38CC.

The carb on it is a Tilloston HU 10A 80

When it was brought it, it was filthy inside and out, all the lines were cracked and crumbling, the gas was ancient and crystalizing. howeer, astonishingly, it ran (before the lines fell apart), but only for a few seconds.

Now, I've replaced all the lines, the filter, checked the compression, rebuilt & cleaned the carb (Twice), and it still starts, runs for a few seconds (15-40), and then dies out. The carb is spraying gas out the air intake pretty bad, and the saw isntantly stalls if I open the choke at all.

I replaced the carb with a brand new unused one that we had in stock, same carb, and it worked slightly better, but I still can't get it to run. I'm wondering if I might have the H (needle) and L (idle) screws in the wrong positions? I haven't been able to find much information on them, but I tried the modern defaults for Poulan saws and it won't even fire with them there. I'm stumped. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

A lot of the folks have the S25 saws on this site and I'm sure someone will pop on to offer their advice. They are known for spitting fuel out of the carb, esp. with the cover off. Unfortnately its the only way to adjust them. I have a couple but don't think I have a Tillotson carb on any of them. Would have to check as I just don't remember. Generally 1 turn open for both needles should get you going, initially. I've got to think you may not have the metering needle set right. The metering lever should be set flush with the metering chamber floor for the HU carb. If its higher you could be flooding the carb.

Bob
 
Photo0163.jpg


Picked this Craftsman up this weekend for $20, I replaced the fuel line and it runs great, now I have to straiten the front AV spring and unclog the oilier. I think it is a 2.3 and it has a 18 inch bar, which it pulls surprisingly well.
 
Here is my very first youtube video. I had no idea it would take this long to upload, WOW.
This is 1 of 2 videos I took new years day. I will post the other one maybe wednesday or thursday.
time for bed!


Poulan Chainsaw Advertising - YouTube

KJC

oh, and last name is pronounced Krol 1 syllable, big O (incase anyone was wondering)

English & German

Nice! Thats the kind of stuff I was talking about that needs to be scanned and saved! I'm waiting for the second video!

Just throwing it out there that I would be glad to scan all that stuff and send it back to you when done with it.

It was me who has the Aldens/Poulan 25 and like I said, I have never seen another like it till now. Mine was in bad shape when I got it and it got completly disassembled and repaired and is now running great. I also have a Aldens/Poulan 361.




My Aldens.

attachment.php
 
90%...not so sure. Maybe with the active posters. I know from running and moderating on some really large sites, you are doing good to hit 10% active posters over just readers. I am thinking that most guys who visit this site haven't gotten into mass hoarding, just accumulating a selection of working saws, because they actually need to cut wood.

I know I fall into that latter category, I came here to learn more about saws, because I had a need for a range of saw sizes and so on (I actually *have* to cut wood, firewood, cleanup, thinning, storm damage, etc), and also wanted tips and tricks on repairs, etc, as I am interested in that for a long term geezer working hobby thing eventually, income supplementation. Something I can do when the more physically demanding stuff gets to be a little too hard. Sort of hitting that transition point now.

So, I am not a "collector" just looking for good runners and spare parts and so on. I have little to no desire on having a garage full of shelf queens, no matter how cool they are. Working saws, that's it.

The thing with "collecting" it is good and bad, good because restoration and repair knowledge can be shared, bad, because people who need saws tend to be forced into the brand new market because the older larger saws are bid up pretty high a lot of times, and there are a very small number of collectors who manage to always get oodles of deals, as they are in the position of having enough surplus cash and time to do it. Say someone has a budget of x dollars, they could use say a larger saw, but those are so high, they have to go to the big box stores and settle on a smaller saw than what they really need, then it gets beat on, over worked.

If you can understand what I am saying..good and bad. Same thing happened with the old small garden tractor market, now collectors bid them up pretty high, again, to have a barn full of tractors that don't get used much, just trotted out for display at the antique shows.

I know we joke about CAD here, but I'd say it is a sure bet there's a fine line between collecting and obsessive compulsive hoarding. And that line can get crossed with some people.

I will say though, it is a *good* thing to save these saws from the chinese market metals scrappers.

We will someday look back in history and the decision wall street and the government made to ship all the manufacturing they could to china, then start shipping them all the "scrap" metal, and now energy stuff will be seen as one of the more boneheaded things any nation ever did.

Yeah, I was referring to the regulars, not the ones that pop in and out wondering why their saw is cutting out, never to be heard from again until something else goes wrong. That's what I do on the computer fix-it sites. You can usually tell the regulars by the number of posts they put up here. My 90 is not as far off as you might think with the "frequent fliers."

I do have a few "garage queens" sitting around but they all would run and cut wood if you don't mind lifting a heavy saw. I generally use lighter weight saws for firewood, just mess with the old heavy ones for fun but it wouldn't be rare for my neighbors to look out and see (hear)me cutting some firewood with my C5 or an old Poulan S25DA.
 
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