gitrdun_climbr
ArboristSite Operative
I decided to upgrade my system in recent weeks and switched from distel to VT, knotted to eye to eye machine splice, HRC to Beeline, old Weaver fixed double D saddle to Ergovation, flipline from right hip to left hip away from saws, handsaw from left to right hip with chainsaw, incorporated 25' rope lanyard (daisy-chained).
I'm hoping some of you more experienced climbers may have some input on a few minor problems I'm having. Overall I can tell this setup should make for more comfortable and efficient climbing in the long run but not if I don't work out a few kinks.
My 3/3 VT is so nice and slippery I love it on these long ascents here in PNW. Love how it self tails just from rope weight then locks well under weight (with manual setting every time). Biggest problem I'm having with it is it self tails all the slack out when I'm trying to gather working line for the next hand pitch. Find myself pulling my hank, then tying a little stopper knot which reduces net efficiency (as did pinning the rope with foot, holding it with teeth, etc.). Do you guys have any ideas for dealing with this? With those bulky machine splices I can't add anymore wraps or brainds. Maybe I need the 2" longer eye to eye offered and add a wrap? I have the 30", they offer 32" at Vermeer.
The eyes on my eye to eye machine splice have stretched just a bit so now I'm constantly side-loading (or threatening to) my biners because there is no sinching action like with the double fishermans. I understand there is an appeal in greater break rating on the splice, is there a special shape of biner that keeps them in order? Some other trick?
Beeline seems nice. Softer and grippier than the HRC. HRC seems to hold a good shape with the distel and not bind up too much.
The Ergovation is nice but not as comfortable as my old leather saddle yet (nothing like well worn leather). Killing my right hipbone but I think there's just a small fold in the backpad right there. Also all the extra leg padding is nice but the added material makes a more effective nut cracker if you don't hang them way low on your legs. Be aware that they run slightly large. Everything's maxed out on my adjustments and it barely fits my 32" waist just right. Sliding bridge is great for reaching but still getting used to adjusting myself straight when I teeter to one side of the other.
Keeping lanyards on left and all saws on right should have been done from the start. Over alot of years I got used to throwing the flipper with right hand so I still reach for the adjuster with the right hand first, then go to the left. Has anyone else changed something like that where it felt like forever to 'remember' it?
The long rope lanyard I had used years ago. Works well in deciduous trees where you can instantly setup a double crotch, standard lanyard with one hand adjustment, it's lightweight, etc. I found that assembling the daisy chain from the tail up makes it to where you can easily undo one half hitch, pull as much lanyard out of the chain as you need, throw a half hitch back on and never have to tamper with your chained and hung tail. Only problem I see is hanging the tail puts a loop in your system to catch on things. Even a 25' lanyard chained only hangs 6-7 feet when unhooked. About like a standard 15' steelcore.
Are all of these gagets and changes gonna make me leaner and meaner over time or have I just made more work for myself?
Thanks guys!
I'm hoping some of you more experienced climbers may have some input on a few minor problems I'm having. Overall I can tell this setup should make for more comfortable and efficient climbing in the long run but not if I don't work out a few kinks.
My 3/3 VT is so nice and slippery I love it on these long ascents here in PNW. Love how it self tails just from rope weight then locks well under weight (with manual setting every time). Biggest problem I'm having with it is it self tails all the slack out when I'm trying to gather working line for the next hand pitch. Find myself pulling my hank, then tying a little stopper knot which reduces net efficiency (as did pinning the rope with foot, holding it with teeth, etc.). Do you guys have any ideas for dealing with this? With those bulky machine splices I can't add anymore wraps or brainds. Maybe I need the 2" longer eye to eye offered and add a wrap? I have the 30", they offer 32" at Vermeer.
The eyes on my eye to eye machine splice have stretched just a bit so now I'm constantly side-loading (or threatening to) my biners because there is no sinching action like with the double fishermans. I understand there is an appeal in greater break rating on the splice, is there a special shape of biner that keeps them in order? Some other trick?
Beeline seems nice. Softer and grippier than the HRC. HRC seems to hold a good shape with the distel and not bind up too much.
The Ergovation is nice but not as comfortable as my old leather saddle yet (nothing like well worn leather). Killing my right hipbone but I think there's just a small fold in the backpad right there. Also all the extra leg padding is nice but the added material makes a more effective nut cracker if you don't hang them way low on your legs. Be aware that they run slightly large. Everything's maxed out on my adjustments and it barely fits my 32" waist just right. Sliding bridge is great for reaching but still getting used to adjusting myself straight when I teeter to one side of the other.
Keeping lanyards on left and all saws on right should have been done from the start. Over alot of years I got used to throwing the flipper with right hand so I still reach for the adjuster with the right hand first, then go to the left. Has anyone else changed something like that where it felt like forever to 'remember' it?
The long rope lanyard I had used years ago. Works well in deciduous trees where you can instantly setup a double crotch, standard lanyard with one hand adjustment, it's lightweight, etc. I found that assembling the daisy chain from the tail up makes it to where you can easily undo one half hitch, pull as much lanyard out of the chain as you need, throw a half hitch back on and never have to tamper with your chained and hung tail. Only problem I see is hanging the tail puts a loop in your system to catch on things. Even a 25' lanyard chained only hangs 6-7 feet when unhooked. About like a standard 15' steelcore.
Are all of these gagets and changes gonna make me leaner and meaner over time or have I just made more work for myself?
Thanks guys!