my first top end rebuild on a 066 has some issues

[crazyjay]

i picked up a 066 that needed a piston and cylinder . i put the nwp big bore piston and cylinder in it , went well . threw some gas in her, fired her up . runs good, tweaked the carb best i could, it idles and runs good. the problem im having is it wont start unless you choke it. it idles good but the chain moves a fair bit. also it has a wierd noise comming from the flywheel side , i pulled the flywheel cover, the fly wheel has some play in it, not sure if thats common or not. the coil looks like someone gapped it with a axe handle. is .10 the correct gap for that? when i rev it up it almost feels i can feel something moving.

 

[watsonr]

that gap will work. Make sure the flywheel nut is tight! It will bust off the key and maybe some of the crank if its loose. Sounds like you need a carb kit in it if you need to run with the choke on. The rubber fuel pump inside of it is worn out and looses the pressure to pump up the fuel. Not enough fuel for the air charge means less air.... to get less air you pull the choke. The carb setting should be one turn and one turn for high and low. If the chain is spinning the idles to high or the clutch springs need replaced, try turning down the idle first. Adjust the low needle to give crisp throttle response, then adjust idle to stop the chain.

 

[crazyjay]

i will gap the coil tomorrow check the fly wheel. put a new plug in it a get a carb rebuild kit. appreiciate the advise

 

[watsonr]

You can use a business card, there around .010-.012 and is what guys use most. Hard to set the gap using a medal gap tool, they stick to the magnet.... and when you pull it out to gap the other end... well you get the idea.

And I will remind you of the rules around here, kind of an unwritten thing. If you don't provide pictures, it didn't happen.

Good luck and Welcome to the site!

 

[cutforfun]

Sounds like you need to ck the bearings on the flywheel side or that new top end will be short lived. It sounds like you have an air leak also from the bearing going and taking out the seal.

 

[crazyjay]

i will check it out. the fly wheel is loose a bit not much. i had a feeling when i felt and heard it thats what it might be. i should of striped it when i got it and went through the whole saw.

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[RiverRat2]

i will check it out. the fly wheel is loose a bit not much. i had a feeling when i felt and heard it thats what it might be. i should of striped it when i got it and went through the whole saw.

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after you get the flywheel nut tight It should have zero play it cant be loose At all,,, then if you can still see it move radiaily when you apply pressure side to side/up and down the bearings are worn,, pull the B&C and cover,, grab the end of the PTO side Clutch spyder nut and the flywheel @ the same time and rock one side forward and the other back or up and down @ the same time,, if you can see/feel it moving,,, it is time for new brg's & seals,, if it dont have play you're prolly good,,, just a carb kit may have you runnin!!! if its brgs shot and you keep running it,,, cut4fun is right you will trash the new topend

 

[blsnelling]

after you get the flywheel nut tight It should have zero play it cant be loose At all,,,

Zero, nada, none, zilch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get the idea?

 

[crazyjay]

i was curious so went and checked it out, i tightened the nut up. and it moves.
yep ill figure the rest out from here. i apprieciate all the help. this will be my first time going past the fly wheel. wish me luck.

 

[cutforfun]

dont run it again, start the rebuild all over,

replace both bearings and all seals if you take it apart

 

[crazyjay]

ya im going to replace everything. i dont have very much into it now, so few more bucks to do it right wont hurt

 

[pdqdl]

That saw lost the piston and cylinder right? Unless you fix what caused that problem, it will happen again.

I'm with cutforfun; reseal the crankcase. New seals, new bearings, and do a crankcase pressure AND vacuum test before you fire it up.

It's not that hard, and it sure makes them run better. (Look around on AS, I learned how to do that myself in this forum.)

 

[crazyjay]

. soon as i get the parts im going to tear it apart.

 

[RiverRat2]

i was curious so went and checked it out, i tightened the nut up. and it moves.
yep ill figure the rest out from here. i apprieciate all the help. this will be my first time going past the fly wheel. wish me luck.

Thats defintily where you are,,, split the cases time (there are several threads on splitting cases) when you get the P/C back off you need to check the bigend rod bearing for play.
It will have some play when you wiggle from side to side,,, but vertically,,, 0 nada none,,,, period. Any vertical play see the last,,,,,,,,,
also the color of the rod metal should be the same color as the middle of the rod,, if there are bluing/signs of heat on the big end or smallend get a good used crank... that way it will last you alot longer,,,,

 

[crazyjay]

when i get her apart. ill take some pics. im hoping to order parts tomorrow. is there any special tools i need . or does it just come apart? i do need to get a clutch remover tool. that i know of.

 

[KTM640]

Crazyjay, before you even start to tear it down, work on cleaning it up. Get as much junk off it first.

Keep the jug on as you will need it for stopping the crank (use rope in the spark plug hole) from spinning when you loosen the clutch and flywheel nut. Make sure the piston in on the up stroke and above the intake and exhaust ports before you install the rope. If you use this method all you need is a 19mm on the clutch. Remember it is reverse thread. Right to loosen... You can use an impact if you have one and will not need a piston stop. JUST REMEMBER THAT THE CLUTCH IS REVERSE THREADED...

If you don't have the tools to split it, you can go to a dealer and ask if they would do it for a nominal cost. Search the site for tools as there was a thread on people making their own tools.

Take your time, keep things in bags and mark them.. Get yourself an IPL and service manual too. PM me your email address if you need one and I can get one out to you tonight.

Jon

 

[RiverRat2]

Ditto!!!

Crazyjay, before you even start to tear it down, work on cleaning it up. Get as much junk off it first.

Keep the jug on as you will need it for stopping the crank (use rope in the spark plug hole) from spinning when you loosen the clutch and flywheel nut. Make sure the piston in on the up stroke and above the intake and exhaust ports before you install the rope. If you use this method all you need is a 19mm on the clutch. Remember it is reverse thread. Right to loosen... You can use an impact if you have one and will not need a piston stop. JUST REMEMBER THAT THE CLUTCH IS REVERSE THREADED...

If you don't have the tools to split it, you can go to a dealer and ask if they would do it for a nominal cost. Search the site for tools as there was a thread on people making their own tools.

Take your time, keep things in bags and mark them.. Get yourself an IPL and service manual too. PM me your email address if you need one and I can get one out to you tonight.

Jon

see folks already steppin up to lend a helping hand like the good advice from KTM640,,,, reminder when you get the lid (P/C) off,,, before you pull it completely apart check the big end rod brg. for play vertically,,, that way if you need a crank you will know!!!!

keep us posted,,, you can do this,,, that cheap Purple cleaner works fine w/warm water on the caked up knarly stuff,, then blow it dry with compressed air,,,

 

[crazyjay]

sounds good. i apprieciate everyones advice and help.
that purple cleaner is good stuff. last time i had a jug of it, i used it for everything,

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Crazyjay, before you even start to tear it down, work on cleaning it up. Get as much junk off it first.

Keep the jug on as you will need it for stopping the crank (use rope in the spark plug hole) from spinning when you loosen the clutch and flywheel nut. Make sure the piston in on the up stroke and above the intake and exhaust ports before you install the rope. If you use this method all you need is a 19mm on the clutch. Remember it is reverse thread. Right to loosen... You can use an impact if you have one and will not need a piston stop. JUST REMEMBER THAT THE CLUTCH IS REVERSE THREADED...

If you don't have the tools to split it, you can go to a dealer and ask if they would do it for a nominal cost. Search the site for tools as there was a thread on people making their own tools.

Take your time, keep things in bags and mark them.. Get yourself an IPL and service manual too. PM me your email address if you need one and I can get one out to you tonight.

Jon

OP.....if you use a rope in the cylinder as a piston stop....make sure the piston is above the exhaust port, like mentioned above, so the rope doesn't get in there! It really makes a MESS! :msp_sad::help: Did that ONCE! Now.....I think twice or more on which way the 'nut' needs to turn and set the impact accordingly.

Also....keep in mind when you put the flywheel back on....the key is only to align it with the crank. The clean grease free tapper is what holds it in position with the proper torque of the nut. The flywheel will slip if not properly installed!

You guessed it....I'm speaking from experience here!

Oh....if you would like to embed your pics.....there are instructions in my sig.

 

[bluestripes]

OP.....if you use a rope in the cylinder as a piston stop....make sure the piston is above the exhaust port, like mentioned above, so the rope doesn't get in there! It really makes a MESS! :msp_sad::help: Did that ONCE! Now.....I think twice or more on which way the 'nut' needs to turn and set the impact accordingly.

Impact?? I've seen a few too many sheard flywheel keys and other bad stuff to be using a Impact on a chainsaw.