DR Rapid Fire Rack & Pinion

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Not sure of how many cords exactly since I use along side a TW-7. However, I had this at home doing some cleanup work when it broke. It has about 55 hours on it so far.

It was a 12" piece of knotty oak. But the real issue (I believe) was the piece that jammed between the ram and the table. I have seen it happen before were there was a large amount of torque placed on the push plate because of a bind along side. Just this time, something broke. :mad2:

Yes, the wedge is that wavy, but that is the way it came.:msp_razz:
 
Looking at those pictures it looks like a really poor weld was the problem there, way too cold and no penetration of the thinner plate. Somebody made a nice looking bead, but a weak weld. When parts are getting that thick I like to see beveled edges, root pass that burns in real deep, and then a couple of finish passes. If they want to single pass to save time the amps need to be turned way up. That picture looks like they didn't even burn through the scale on the surface.




Mr. HE:cool:
 
Update

DR Power is sending a whole new splitter and taking the old one back.

Not sure why, but hey, I give them credit for good service. With 3 days of communication, the solution is done.

Kudos to DR. :msp_thumbup:
 
DR Power is sending a whole new splitter and taking the old one back.

Not sure why, but hey, I give them credit for good service. With 3 days of communication, the solution is done.

Kudos to DR. :msp_thumbup:

Not profitable, but admirable. Perhaps they have been watching the TSC thread...? ;)
 
100 cord update

DR contacted me today and wants to send me a brand new machine and wants my old one back for evaluation! We have now crossed the 100 cord barrier and I'm on my second set of belts and return springs. It's about due for an oil change but I may just hold off so the DR team can see it as it is. It still jams every now and then but we are used to that quirk and usually a smack on the round will free it up. That Subaru motor runs really well and drinks very little fuel and uses no oil. It starts easier than the Honda that powers my conveyor. The ram and plate are holding up just fine and I have split just about the meanest rounds I can find including Ironwood, Eucaliptus and twisted knotty Oak. The monster Oak rounds (over 30" diameter) can be tough sometimes but those rounds are too big to handle by hand anyway and should be noodled. I just finished building a splitter for my Bobcat to half or quarter the monster rounds and that should help. After looking at D&B Macks photos, it looks like he tried to split steel! That knotty Oak must be some mean stuff to cause that much damage to the plate and wedge. I bought my Rapidfire because of their reputation for customer service. And look how they are taking care of MNGuns, D&B Mack and myself! I am amazed with their offer to replace my machine just to evaluate my old one! Ten Points for DR Rapidfire. Hmm, I wonder if I can buy back my old machine after the evaluation inspection?
 
Not profitable, but admirable. Perhaps they have been watching the TSC thread...? ;)

Hope you don't mind me jumping in - I'm Michael, the Product Manager for the new Rapid Fire product line.

At DR, we don’t get too hung up on what others might be doing in the marketplace. We’ve been dedicated to building equipment that’s built to last and have been standing behind those products for over 25 years. Supporting our customers is nothing new for DR. In today’s world it might seem old fashioned – but we’ll never waiver on providing world class customer service.

We know not everyone BUYS EQUIPMENT TO LAST A LIFETIME BUT WE SLEEP BETTER KNOWING THAT OUR EQUIPMENT WORKS AS HARD AS OUR CUSTOMERS DO, AND WHEN THINGS GO WRONG WE ARE HERE TO MAKE IT RIGHT.

I'll continue keep an eye on the forum for the great insight and any further questions, but you can feel free to contact me directly.

Thanks, Michael.
 
NEW Rapid FIre

DR Power is sending a whole new splitter and taking the old one back.

Not sure why, but hey, I give them credit for good service. With 3 days of communication, the solution is done.

Kudos to DR. :msp_thumbup:

Outstanding and that is why I go to Dr Country Products for other items in my Garage.
I've said it before....they will treat you good. Especially with a new piece of equipment.
Just outstanding.:rock:
 
I have had a Speed Pro from TS. After 10 cord thay got it back. The wear plate fill off and then the gear on the rack busted off. Got the DR in 12/19/11 and all I have dun to it is replace the two Belts. We have don over 60 cords so far. I trid a friends SUPER Splitter today it is better in one way. Thay have a handie that auto splits. If DR has that next time I will get a DR. If not I will get the Super Splitter, it is faster do to you have two hands free.
 
I have had a Speed Pro from TS. After 10 cord thay got it back. The wear plate fill off and then the gear on the rack busted off. Got the DR in 12/19/11 and all I have dun to it is replace the two Belts. We have don over 60 cords so far. I trid a friends SUPER Splitter today it is better in one way. Thay have a handie that auto splits. If DR has that next time I will get a DR. If not I will get the Super Splitter, it is faster do to you have two hands free.


I've had my DR Rapid Fire for ~2 months, and was disappointed that it didn't auto-split. The super split(newer ones anyway) on youtube, you notice the operator just pulls up on the handle once, and it fully cycles the rack all the way out, and the springs help auto-return. I was bummed. Until I took off the cover, and adjusted one of the stop bolts a little bit. It now works just like the super split. :rock:

BUT, I would only recommend this to someone who is comfortable working on equipment with moving parts. You could be seriously hurt or killed if your not careful observing the machine running with no cover on.

It is simple. Obviously machine is turned OFF.

Remove the cover:

There are 3 bolts (7/16") two on the I-beam side towards the bottom, and one in the back, under the output side of the engine. Remove these. Then there are two orange locating/alignment pins welded on the frame that you slip the cover forward off of. You may need to move the handle back and forth as you lift the cover up and off the machine.

Next, look at the handle linkage. Pull back on the handle to see how it moves. You'll notice the two carriage bolts, one limits the downward range, and one limits the upward/return range. You want the bottom most linkage(with the roller pressing on the rack) to be basically vertical when you pull the handle all the way back. Adjust the stop bolt, until you get that vertical alignment, tighten the lock nut. Now you just need to test to make sure it's set right. Be extremely careful, running the machine with no cover on, as those flywheels will grab almost anything that gets close!! You could be crushed, or killed if not careful! You can test the setting with the engine idling.

With that said, my DR Rapid Fire is now identical to a super split in every way!! It is so sweet with it auto-cycling:rock::D

Here is a link to video showing more or less how it needs to be adjusted, although I believe on mine the bottom linkage, is set a little more vertical:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbBEvzeDUyk&feature=relmfu
 
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Why don't you just put the cover back on? Or am I missing something?

I thought it was obvious. The cover only comes off to make the adjustment, and test the machine to make sure it auto-cycles. The THE COVER IS RE-INSTALLED for splitting.

And to clarify, when I say auto cycle:

I mean you just yank the handle once, and the ram extends to split, then returns. In order for it to cycle again, you just pull the handle again. From the factory, you need to keep your hand on the handle for the ram to be moving. For a good visual of the "Auto-cycle" ....observe this super split video below, notice he just pulls up on the handle once, and it completes an entire cycle:

super splitter - YouTube
 
Why don't you just put the cover back on? Or am I missing something?

PER DR YOU SHOUD NOT DO THAT. I call DR support ,wot thay told me you will burn up you bilts and at this time do not try to set the handie up for auto split .
 
PER DR YOU SHOUD NOT DO THAT. I call DR support ,wot thay told me you will burn up you bilts and at this time do not try to set the handie up for auto split .


I'm not, sure if you're replying to my first official post which since seems to have been deleted by the Mods? As far as the belts burning up, it has a centrifugal clutch which will begin to slip. I can't see any difference with the ram getting stuck , while the handle is set up for auto-cycle or not?

As far as putting the cover back on, I thought it was obvious. The cover only comes of for any adjustment, then gets re-installed.

Can one of the Mods let me know why my original post was deleted?
 
Hope you don't mind me jumping in - I'm Michael, the Product Manager for the new Rapid Fire product line.

At DR, we don’t get too hung up on what others might be doing in the marketplace. We’ve been dedicated to building equipment that’s built to last and have been standing behind those products for over 25 years. Supporting our customers is nothing new for DR. In today’s world it might seem old fashioned – but we’ll never waiver on providing world class customer service.

We know not everyone BUYS EQUIPMENT TO LAST A LIFETIME BUT WE SLEEP BETTER KNOWING THAT OUR EQUIPMENT WORKS AS HARD AS OUR CUSTOMERS DO, AND WHEN THINGS GO WRONG WE ARE HERE TO MAKE IT RIGHT.

I'll continue keep an eye on the forum for the great insight and any further questions, but you can feel free to contact me directly.

Thanks, Michael.

You seem a sincere fellow and I don't doubt your statement but the above highlighted statement is kind of funny considering you stole the idea from the marketplace.:laugh:
 
All I see with something like that is human carnage, blood on the ice.:bang:
There'd be hundreds of people if not thousands that said the same thing about chainsaws. Or cars. Or planes. Or electricity, etc.
 
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