How I ended up with a Dolmar 5105

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foxtrapper

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I'm just a guy with a couple of acres and far too many years with junk old saws like cast off Poulans and the like. I decided I wanted/needed a good saw that's going to start reliably, cut well and last years. So I went exploring and researching, coming down ultimately to Stihl, Husvarna and Dolmar, in no small measure because of what I read on this forum.

How did I end up with a Dolmar? The short answer is the dealer. For I wasn't planning on buying a Dolmar. And I'm still kinda astonished that it was in fact the dealership that mattered. But the difference was in fact that profound.

Stihl is what I was figuring I'd get. Either a 290 because its cheap, or a 261 because it reads so nice. But all three of the Stihl dealerships I visited keep their saws tied up on the shelf, and no, you can't take it down. You want to handle it, buy it first. The idea of actually starting one or trying some wood cutting with one was met with wide eyed incredulation. OK. Ask about setup, and they tell me it's done at the factory. Um, ok. Thanks guys, I'll let you know.

Husqvarna. I was curious about them. If they sell pro grade saws in my area, I never found them. The listed pro dealerships actually only carried the same homeowner saws that Lowes and Home Depot carry. I sure would have liked to at least seen a 365 XP. But, I never could find one to even look at. All the homeowners saws were tied down on the shelf, just like the Stihl dealers. I didn't bother to ask about picking one up or starting it. You know who I found the most helpful and knowledgeable Husvarna person? Lowes. Yikes!

The Dolmar dealer was an adventure to find. He was also the last place I went. He's got the saws right there on the shelf, untied. Customers can pick them up and explore them and wave them around in the air. Not only that but he takes me out back to do some wood cutting with it. Great! We take the saw partially apart to explore it, we talk chainsaw (and he never trashed the competition), we discussed maintenance and use, we discussed setup and oil mixes and gas octane, and, and, and.

Not particularly surprising, I ended up buying a Dolmar from him.

Is the Stihl 261 a better saw? Maybe, but the Stihl dealers weren't willing to let me find out. Would a Husqvarna XP have balanced as wonderfully as people say? I've no idea, as I could never find one to hold.

So in the end, the Dolmar dealer made the sale because he had the saw and was willing to let me test drive it, and knew how to set it up.

And, I'm quite happy with it. It balances well to me, it's light, the vibration is nill, the engine is rather quiet, and it cuts nicely.
 
Glad to hear!!!! The dealer is more important than the brand IMHO, in reality all of the 3 top brands make awesome saw but as you've seen the dealers make or brake the deal.
I'd love to pick up a dolmar to give a try!
 
I think that you did fine. That saw should work well for you. Others will try to say that the MS261 and 346XP are better choices and I say so what. You found a saw you like and a dealer you like to take care of you. I think that the differences in the saws mentioned are not as big as people would like to believe, they just feel that they need to make everyone think the way they do. I like my Dolmar 5100, I have had it since 2008 with no problems. I don't care if it is better than this or that and everyone else thinks so, the saw just has to work for me. Good luck with the saw and we would all like to see some pics.
 
Rep sent for the new Dolmar. Maybe drop the dealers name here and give him a little more credit. I think that is the #1 thing that is holding them back. It's a great saw and I had the same luck with dealers and all the major brands so I picked what I picked and won't be looking back.
 
Others will try to say that the MS261 and 346XP are better choices and I say so what.

:agree2: Yes.



I think that the differences in the saws mentioned are not as big as people would like to believe.

:agree2: Yes again.


To the OP, congrats on your choice. Its a fine saw and will last with the best of them, if what my local dealers say is to be believed... even the ones that carry the other brands.
 
Congrats on the saw.....Love that shade of orange....:hmm3grin2orange:

We have an Echo/Shindaiwa dealer close to where I live. He had 1 Shiny 446s on the rack. The last saw in stock. Echo makes the saws now and Shindaiwa doesn't anymore. Anyway I want to support the dealer, I asked if he could come off of list price, just a little and I would take the saw. He wouldn't even look me in the eye to say no.
I've been in there several times over the last few years to look at the same saw, just sitting there, discontinued, offered to take it. 10% off and I would have been very happy. He would have lowered his inventory. He just shook his head, nope.
Next year that same saw will be sitting there. He'll have to pay inventory tax on it...again...I don't get it. He sells the saw, then I gotta by a file and sharpener kit, bar oil, two stroke oil, air filters, extra chain, maybe a box for it. He makes money. Doesn't seem to have good business sense. Any way, thats a long winded way of saying he won't get my support or business in the future.

....IT IS THE DEALER to a great extent that makes the difference between this saw or that.....So far I like my dolmar 420.
 
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Congratulations on the saw, I am jealous! Your dealer sounds just like my Dolmar/Jonsered/Efco dealer. He does all the things we read on here should be done at purchase, then asks you to bring it back after a few days for him to re-check the crab settings and make sure its all good, for free. Doesn't it feel good to support the dealer who has your back? Have fun with the saw.
 
Congrats on the new saw. Dolmar rep sent. I am fortunate to have a good Dolmar dealer near by too. You are going to like your new saw. You know the drill, pics or it didn't happen.
 
Hi

I have a question for you guys, I recently bought a 5105 and I'm having a problem with the starting procedure
I attached a picture of the Instructions manual in which it is presented; the red part does not appear in mine (Romania)
First it's said that at warm starting you have to go: On-Choke and then back to ON again;
I don't like this, It would have been easier to just go ON and pull the rope and the engine to start at idling speed.
From the instructions you have to activate the brake, then accelerate to go from half-throttle to idle; I'm not very keen on activating the brake and accelerating...
On my 5105 the switch goes like this: OFF-ON-CHOKE, from the lower part upwards
In the part I've highlighted it's said that "The engine is switched off, but can be turned on again without moving the combination switch", so do you have to go CHOKE and the ON to warm start or not.
On the European there is no "Safety position", the OFF position is equivalent to the "Safety position"; it's like shown in the picture butt OFF and Safety are just one.
Could be this the reason why you have to go on-choke-on?
 
Hi

I have a question for you guys, I recently bought a 5105 and I'm having a problem with the starting procedure
I attached a picture of the Instructions manual in which it is presented; the red part does not appear in mine (Romania)
First it's said that at warm starting you have to go: On-Choke and then back to ON again;
I don't like this, It would have been easier to just go ON and pull the rope and the engine to start at idling speed.
From the instructions you have to activate the brake, then accelerate to go from half-throttle to idle; I'm not very keen on activating the brake and accelerating...
On my 5105 the switch goes like this: OFF-ON-CHOKE, from the lower part upwards
In the part I've highlighted it's said that "The engine is switched off, but can be turned on again without moving the combination switch", so do you have to go CHOKE and the ON to warm start or not.
On the European there is no "Safety position", the OFF position is equivalent to the "Safety position"; it's like shown in the picture butt OFF and Safety are just one.
Could be this the reason why you have to go on-choke-on?

If the engine is hot enough, you should be able to just put it in on, for a restart at idle. It is the same way with Husky and Stihl. The manuals always leave that option out - likely because it doesn't work if the saw isn't warm enough, and it is hard to make a guideline for when it will work, and not.

Just try, and you will find out when it will work, and when it will not on that particular carb setting/saw.
 
If the engine is hot enough, you should be able to just put it in on, for a restart at idle. It is the same way with Husky and Stihl. The manuals always leave that option out - likely because it doesn't work if the saw isn't warm enough, and it is hard to make a guideline for when it will work, and not.

Just try, and you will find out when it will work, and when it will not on that particular carb setting/saw.

So it's OK to start it without going to CHOKE position
I was worried that I could damage something on the saw, but if it's just a precautionary measure for them, then I will try starting it without going to choke position, and in time will get the hang of it.
I used to start a chinese saw by keeping the saw accelerated with my shoe and pulling the rope, otherwise it wouldn't start; I think it's the same principle...
So Stihl and Husqvarna start in the same way, half-throttle? Accelerating with the brake on wouldn't cause some damage in time?
 
So it's OK to start it without going to CHOKE position

Yes.


I used to start a chinese saw by keeping the saw accelerated with my shoe and pulling the rope, otherwise it wouldn't start...


You now have a quality tool. Take your experience with that chinese garbage saw for what it was, a learning lesson.
 
So it's OK to start it without going to CHOKE position
I was worried that I could damage something on the saw, but if it's just a precautionary measure for them, then I will try starting it without going to choke position, and in time will get the hang of it.
I used to start a chinese saw by keeping the saw accelerated with my shoe and pulling the rope, otherwise it wouldn't start; I think it's the same principle...
So Stihl and Husqvarna start in the same way, half-throttle? Accelerating with the brake on wouldn't cause some damage in time?

Yep, they all start at half throttle or so. Why would the brake be on when you plan on using it? I personally never use the brake, even when walking around. Just keep your eye on the blade :cool2:
 
If the engine is hot enough, you should be able to just put it in on, for a restart at idle. It is the same way with Husky and Stihl. The manuals always leave that option out - likely because it doesn't work if the saw isn't warm enough, and it is hard to make a guideline for when it will work, and not.

Just try, and you will find out when it will work, and when it will not on that particular carb setting/saw.

:agree2:
 
Dealer is what sold me on mine as well. Personally ive seen stihl dealers be a little arrogant but nice enough fellows . You are right though no firing up a stihl here either . The husky guy was nice but had very limited stock and their prices seemed high. Who knows maybe dolmar may come back fierce in the states . I know where my business is going from now on.
 
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