McCulloch Chain Saws

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That gap looks parallel to me. Maybe the rod just needs to be flipped. My engine is in many pieces. If it still binds when I put it back together I am going to flip it to see if it makes any difference. Ron

It does look that way in the pic but the gap does get wider towards the end. If I flip the rod over, then the very outer edge of the big and small end is resting on the straight edge with a smaller gap leading towards the center of the rod.
 
I bet if you got yourself a decent 1 or 2 ton arbor press, and an oxy/acetylene torch, you could warm it up enough to straighten it. I recommend that you then re heat treat it and shot peen it afterwards, though.

If it's a minor bend, someone out there can straighten it. A machine shop would be a good place to ask questions on straightening a connecting rod. Maybe it's something that they can tell you enough about, and something that you could do yourself.

Just talking out of my ass over here. :cheers:

Edit: that is a real minor bend. Probably could be straightened without heat, which would remove the need for heat treating. Would still shot peen it afterwards, though.

Going to make some phone calls and stop in a cycle shop to see what can be done.
 
797 Score

Well I got lucky finally and got the number one saw on my want list. It's in fairly decent shape with nearly 140psi on the new compression gauge. Thin ring regular model 797. It came with a 32-34" roller nose bar and square chisel tooth 1/2" skip chain.... but it was WORN down to nearly nothing. A few teeth were missing here and there. Poor chain was used and abused till it died... That's ok as I also got a spare 1/2" chisel skip tooth chain with it that has plenty of life left in it. I put the Solid Welded Tip Roller Mac bar on it for now with 1/2" chipper McCulloch Pro chain as the other chain needs to be cleaned up and oiled on the longer roller bar. The original handle was broken so I put a handle off a gear drive saw which is why it is out front somewhat but I like it as I get more leverage with the saw like this instead of the handle being right at the tank.

The flat back was in need of a rebuild and I had one kit left so I cleaned that up good and put in the new gaskets and now she just purrs... Primer works great which is a plus. All I have to do is press once or twice and she fires right up and idles nice. Haven't had a chance to use it yet but I am in no hurry I am glad I just got one of these saws and it runs good. I may end up tearing it down and putting new gaskets in it, possibly painting it but she don't look all that bad. It would be nice to have one like new though or look new. Now I will look for a Super 797 to add along side it and then I am done with that model. Didn't really take all that long to get one of these even though I hear they are kinda hard to come by. Im happy with it... Can't wait to feel the power in the cut when I use it one day and see the chips fly... I like how it revs up it's peppy...

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Well I got lucky finally and got the number one saw on my want list. It's in fairly decent shape with nearly 140psi on the new compression gauge. Thin ring regular model 797. It came with a 32-34" roller nose bar and square chisel tooth 1/2" skip chain.... but it was WORN down to nearly nothing. A few teeth were missing here and there. Poor chain was used and abused till it died... That's ok as I also got a spare 1/2" chisel skip tooth chain with it that has plenty of life left in it. I put the Solid Welded Tip Roller Mac bar on it for now with 1/2" chipper McCulloch Pro chain as the other chain needs to be cleaned up and oiled on the longer roller bar. The original handle was broken so I put a handle off a gear drive saw which is why it is out front somewhat but I like it as I get more leverage with the saw like this instead of the handle being right at the tank.

The flat back was in need of a rebuild and I had one kit left so I cleaned that up good and put in the new gaskets and now she just purrs... Primer works great which is a plus. All I have to do is press once or twice and she fires right up and idles nice. Haven't had a chance to use it yet but I am in no hurry I am glad I just got one of these saws and it runs good. I may end up tearing it down and putting new gaskets in it, possibly painting it but she don't look all that bad. It would be nice to have one like new though or look new. Now I will look for a Super 797 to add along side it and then I am done with that model. Didn't really take all that long to get one of these even though I hear they are kinda hard to come by. Im happy with it... Can't wait to feel the power in the cut when I use it one day and see the chips fly... I like how it revs up it's peppy...

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congrats nickolas on you're lucky score, I wish I had one. :cry:
 
Well I got lucky finally and got the number one saw on my want list. It's in fairly decent shape with nearly 140psi on the new compression gauge. Thin ring regular model 797. It came with a 32-34" roller nose bar and square chisel tooth 1/2" skip chain.... but it was WORN down to nearly nothing. A few teeth were missing here and there. Poor chain was used and abused till it died... That's ok as I also got a spare 1/2" chisel skip tooth chain with it that has plenty of life left in it. I put the Solid Welded Tip Roller Mac bar on it for now with 1/2" chipper McCulloch Pro chain as the other chain needs to be cleaned up and oiled on the longer roller bar. The original handle was broken so I put a handle off a gear drive saw which is why it is out front somewhat but I like it as I get more leverage with the saw like this instead of the handle being right at the tank.

The flat back was in need of a rebuild and I had one kit left so I cleaned that up good and put in the new gaskets and now she just purrs... Primer works great which is a plus. All I have to do is press once or twice and she fires right up and idles nice. Haven't had a chance to use it yet but I am in no hurry I am glad I just got one of these saws and it runs good. I may end up tearing it down and putting new gaskets in it, possibly painting it but she don't look all that bad. It would be nice to have one like new though or look new. Now I will look for a Super 797 to add along side it and then I am done with that model. Didn't really take all that long to get one of these even though I hear they are kinda hard to come by. Im happy with it... Can't wait to feel the power in the cut when I use it one day and see the chips fly... I like how it revs up it's peppy...

View attachment 306745View attachment 306746View attachment 306747View attachment 306748View attachment 306749

Great find!!!
(would NOT repaint it)

E.
 
Well since the 610 is tore apart in thinking of what I can do with it. I have a good machine shop close gonna get it ported and smoothed out if I can get a piston. Has anyone ever built one of these from a stock saw to maybe a everyday/hot saw. I know it's got to have a different exhaust maybe a different carb. Just want to play with it and see what can be done with it. Any suggestions. I defiantly got out of it what I payed for it cut quite abit of wood with it before it went down. Knew it was going too because comp on it has been low from day one.
 
There have been a few that have put the effort into modifying a 600 Series McCulloch, typically start with a PM650 for the reasons Joey pointed out; the 650's already have the best porting to start with. I think it was Al Smith (denizen of another site) that had a modified PM650 that would compete very will in the 60 cc class.

On the other hand, with so many other saws in the same size range with so much more capability, why bother with a PM 600 Series. I am not trying to be arrogant, just saying if you are going to invest time and effort, you might want to choose a better base to work from

On the other hand, the PM 600 Series saws are plentiful and can usually be found for low or no dollars so it can be a good place to get started.

Mark
 
ethar, port it yourself, or have MM or another builder do it. The key with porting is to not overdo it. Transfers are touchy, and so are the roof and floors of the intake and exhaust.

If you do it yourself, just widen the intake and exhaust a mm or two. Maybe more if it won't snag the rings. Leave the transfers alone, and leave the top and bottom of the intake and exhaust ports (floors) alone. Match the muffler inlet with the exhaust port, and match the carb adapter with the port as well. Make it smooth transitions... you'll see what you need to do with it.

The best thread for first reading (and second reading, and third reading) is the Porting 101 thread. Also, many of Stumpy's build threads are good too. MM's build threads are good as well. Snelling's threads have info as well.

If it were me, I'd just get that 610 exhaust port to look like the 650's, and call it good.

I'm sure MM can make that thing rip. It will cost money though. and I am not sure it would be worth putting 250 bucks worth of work into a 610. Maybe it'll surprise us, maybe not.
 
Someone has already opened the exhaust port but its not well smoothed looks like they cut the excess and didn't bother after that. I'm not in a rush to get it done as I replaced this saw with a 10-10a. Figured while it was in pieces let's see what can and cant be done. I can port just don't have the tools to do so at the moment use to build engines for an amateur race team and the guy I know does all the work for the lawnmower racers. He doesn't ever charge much. If after I look at all my options and decide if it's actually worth putting work into it it may just sit in the box in pieces.
 
All you really need to touch up the intake and exhaust ports is a round file, perhaps a flat file would be useful as well on some models. If you already sharpen chains, you likely have the tools in your hands already. A bit of emery cloth comes in handy as well to help smooth things out a bit.

Die grinders with carbide tools can make the job go faster, but you can also go too far very quickly without ever knowing it.

If you were modifying saws all day, every day the better tools would be more efficient but certainly not essential for some experimental work.

Mark
 
Have plenty of files for various things and my sharpening kit. Looked liked all it needed was alil smoothing. I have a few bigger carbs from various other saws maybe get some dug out see if any will work and measure the venturi size. Easy enough on this one to modify the intake as its plastic. Gonna crunch a few numbers and see if it can take a bigger carb after I smooth the port and maybe mod a muffler. My main issue is my odd collection of various parts nothing seems to fit much of what I have sitting around now since my last cleanup of scrap.
 
ethar, the source wanted $93.68 for a NOS 610 piston with rings. No, I did not buy it.

Grabbed a 610 parts saw. If you still need a piston, I can tear it down and get the piston and cylinder alone. All I'd want is most of the money that I paid for this beat up but still good compression brick. In other words, real cheap.
 
Have plenty of files for various things and my sharpening kit. Looked liked all it needed was alil smoothing. I have a few bigger carbs from various other saws maybe get some dug out see if any will work and measure the venturi size. Easy enough on this one to modify the intake as its plastic. Gonna crunch a few numbers and see if it can take a bigger carb after I smooth the port and maybe mod a muffler. My main issue is my odd collection of various parts nothing seems to fit much of what I have sitting around now since my last cleanup of scrap.

Make sure you have the walbro carb. The zama carbs were smaller. The zamas usually come on the 605 and EB 3.4 which were the smaller 55 cc models.

Joey


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 
Think I found the problem with the crank binding issue I'm have with my kart saw. I pulled the saw apart planning to rotate the rod 180 on the piston to see if it made a difference. No visible wear on any parts so before pushing the wrist pin back in, I placed a straight edge across the flats on the rod with the bearing cap tightened back on and could see that the rod is bent. Don't think I did it but who knows. Kind of happy to at least find the likely cause of the problem.

Anybody have an extra usable 101 rod laying around that you wouldn't mind parting with?

Thanks for all the suggestions and info so far.

Talked to Terry Ives this afternoon and it looks like I'll be sending the connecting rod to California to get straightened out. Kind of shocked how little he's going to charge too. He did mention some one is going to have new 101 rods made and they're supposed to be available this fall.

I'm a little happier right now.
 
Talked to Terry Ives this afternoon and it looks like I'll be sending the connecting rod to California to get straightened out. Kind of shocked how little he's going to charge too. He did mention some one is going to have new 101 rods made and they're supposed to be available this fall.

I'm a little happier right now.

No shortage here in 101 rods have over 25 mostly new bought up over a 3 year period knew the day was coming and only too soon ................. oh happy days

McBob.
 
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