Jonsered Chainsaws

[leecopland]

Hope the oil pump work goes well. I'm still waiting for a Stihl oil pump for my 031. I got a replacement crankcase for mine, as mine was leaking oil, but unfortunately it needs a different oil pump, bummer. I now have way too much into this old Stihl!

Lee

 

[fossil]

Hmmmm....I still think it's a good idea sans the correct tool....which would have to be the correct threaded puller. I have some really fine stainless wire on my work truck that might have held as a choker. I think I'm gonna go down to Fastenal and see if they might have a bolt in that thread. I'm not sure on the oiler line without seeing a pic...what you're up against. You know they make those 'fish lines' for replacing fuel lines in tanks, right? I have one(metal ring on one end, hook affair on the other) ...but maybe in your case you don't have access to use this?

Kevin

Kevin,

There's no access for the "fishing line". The fitting is at right angles to the pump orifice so I doubt it would pull around a tight corner.
I did persevere and managed to get a new line hooked up using a pair of dental tweezers.
(It's good to get in with your dental hygienist as they have lots of picks and other tools that get damaged and they throw them away. They are much nicer than the ones you would buy at a tool store and they are free.)
There is a fitting at the bottom of the opening where the filter screen is which is no problem but the other is higher up and deeper into the tank with not much room around it. I used the angles tweezers and went through the filter screen hole and looked through the fill hole to hook it up.
A pain for sure but a lot faster than splitting the cases. I have to go back to work but I did fire it up and you weren't kidding when you said it pumped a lot of oil.
I may get a chance to get it in wood tomorrow.

Thanks a million for your help. You saved me a ton of time and likely much frustration.

Tim

 

[fossil]

Hope the oil pump work goes well. I'm still waiting for a Stihl oil pump for my 031. I got a replacement crankcase for mine, as mine was leaking oil, but unfortunately it needs a different oil pump, bummer. I now have way too much into this old Stihl!

Lee

Maybe you can sell the one you have that doesn't fit anymore and recoup a bit of cost.
The one on the 801 is a piston pump driven by an eccentric (not Aaron) on the crankshaft. It's pretty simple and looks to be a good design. The odd part is that the pick up location for the oil is fixed and the saw would not pick up oil if it was recoil side down when felling. The fixed pick up could be bypassed with a regular hose and filter. The saw has a lot of miles on it and the pump looks new.

 

[Tpagel]

Hello all,
I have a Jonsered 2051 that I got a few years ago fixed fuel system problems(carb kit, fuel line and filter, tank vent and hose ) and cosmetic stuff and it has been an awesome saw every since....until this week, I cannot get it idle down it just wants to run the chain fast, the T screw has little to no effect on idle speed.
Any history for these saws carbs losing tune over the summer it ran great last winter???
Are there common air leaks on these?
I love to cut wood with this saw because it is so fast.
Any pointers on this saw?
Thanks
Travis

 

[Real1shepherd]

Kevin,

There's no access for the "fishing line". The fitting is at right angles to the pump orifice so I doubt it would pull around a tight corner.
I did persevere and managed to get a new line hooked up using a pair of dental tweezers.
(It's good to get in with your dental hygienist as they have lots of picks and other tools that get damaged and they throw them away. They are much nicer than the ones you would buy at a tool store and they are free.)
There is a fitting at the bottom of the opening where the filter screen is which is no problem but the other is higher up and deeper into the tank with not much room around it. I used the angles tweezers and went through the filter screen hole and looked through the fill hole to hook it up.
A pain for sure but a lot faster than splitting the cases. I have to go back to work but I did fire it up and you weren't kidding when you said it pumped a lot of oil.
I may get a chance to get it in wood tomorrow.

Thanks a million for your help. You saved me a ton of time and likely much frustration.

Tim

I admire your ingenuity and tenacity, Tim! Yeah, I know about the dental tools, but dentists give me the creeps like morticians...so I have as little contact as possible....lol. Occasionally I wind up with dental tools from wherever and yup, very well made, usually German stuff. Yeah, whatever works short of splitting a case. One time on my Husky 2100 I put compressed air into the oil tank and heard the gas/oil tank *pop*. Man, that was the start of a long nightmare. Finally, got it epoxied and it lasted about six months. I don't know how they bond those mag cases from the factory, but I couldn't replicate it.

You'll have to back off max on that oiler or she'll run out, way before your gas. I like a manual oiler too for big timber....but these Jonny's are up for anything else just short of big timber. You'll really love that 801...they have gobs of low-end grunt......something the newer saws seem to lack.

Let me know how she's runnin' after a day of real work and how you like her!

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hello all,
I have a Jonsered 2051 that I got a few years ago fixed fuel system problems(carb kit, fuel line and filter, tank vent and hose ) and cosmetic stuff and it has been an awesome saw every since....until this week, I cannot get it idle down it just wants to run the chain fast, the T screw has little to no effect on idle speed.
Any history for these saws carbs losing tune over the summer it ran great last winter???
Are there common air leaks on these?
I love to cut wood with this saw because it is so fast.
Any pointers on this saw?
Thanks
Travis

You've got a leak for sure. Do you know how to run a pressure and vacuum test on the carb? Check all your gas lines first for pinhole leaks. Check your vent system out too. If it was dying and running erratic, I'd say it's your crank seals....doesn't sound though like that's your problem.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

My first Jonsereds.
I have the 801 back together. It needs a few parts to get it up to snuff. The muffler is dented up, the air filter cover is broken, it's missing the plug cover and the chain is pretty thin on cutters. It runs and oils well now. I will try it in wood tomorrow if the weather clears a bit.
Here's a few pics.

 

[leecopland]

Well done Fossil!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well done, Tim! In a pinch if you lose your oil plug, a US pipe plug will work..1/2". Oil caps are VERY hard to find in reasonable condition. Owners tighten them too tightly and they break in half. It looks to me like Jonny used the same cover and air filter set-up as the on the 90. That's a plus, because the 80 flocked filters are VERY hard to find in decent shape, at a decent price. They made a metal screen filter for the 80 as well...never liked that one and it requires a different cap. I picked up a low hr 90 from Arkansas and it had all the original stuff on it; hand guard, spark plug cover...everything. The saw looked trashed at first glance, but it was just grossly dirty. But the owner mauled some threads that cost me some $ to fix and left stale gas in there for YEARS. Probably too much saw for him anyway and he couldn't get it started again. My favorite all-around saw now with a 32" bar.

You should pick up a spare nylon mesh filter for it and have a spare for your work day. They get kinda dirty by afternoon....but I think the old Husky's runs dirtier. I gotta lot of spare parts that would fit this saw if you're in a pinch or need to trade. If it's runnin' right, you're gonna love this saw.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I just noticed you don't have any fallin'/bucking dawgs on it, Tim. I might have a factory somewhere if interested, because I make and put my own on.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I just noticed you don't have any fallin'/bucking dawgs on it, Tim. I might have a factory somewhere if interested, because I make and put my own on.

Kevin

Hi Kevin,
I usually make my spikes as well. If you have the capability of scanning a spike you like and saving it at 100% as a pdf file I could make in easily. That would be a big help.
I have another question. I put a bar and chain on it today and fired it up with the intention of trying it in wood and the chain kept spinning. It idles down fine so suspect there is an issue with the clutch. I tried to get it off but the steel bushing that is over the crank that the clutch drum bearing rides on is stuck firmly on the crank. I looked at an IPL of a 621 clutch which looks to be similar and it looks like the bushing is just a slip fit. There are two holes in the bushing and I thought maybe there were spring loaded pins in there but I don't think so. Let me know if that's the case because it doesn't make any sense that it would be threaded on. I would like to get the clutch apart to clean it and make sure everything is in the right order.
Thanks
Tim

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hi Kevin,
I usually make my spikes as well. If you have the cap


Hi Kevin,
I usually make my spikes as well. If you have the capability of scanning a spike you like and saving it at 100% as a pdf file I could make in easily. That would be a big help.
I have another question. I put a bar and chain on it today and fired it up with the intention of trying it in wood and the chain kept spinning. It idles down fine so suspect there is an issue with the clutch. I tried to get it off but the steel bushing that is over the crank that the clutch drum bearing rides on is stuck firmly on the crank. I looked at an IPL of a 621 clutch which looks to be similar and it looks like the bushing is just a slip fit. There are two holes in the bushing and I thought maybe there were spring loaded pins in there but I don't think so. Let me know if that's the case because it doesn't make any sense that it would be threaded on. I would like to get the clutch apart to clean it and make sure everything is in the right order.
Thanks
Tim

To remove the clutch drum....I fish a piece of V-belt down though the spark plug hole. I think that nut is left-handed thread, but I could go check for ya. There are a bunch of weird washers that stack with it...waffle type etc. Don't lose any of those...they almost look like a homeowner thought he had a better idea but no, it's Jonny. Nothing spring loaded, just the regular cage bearing and a wear washer under the drum. Hmmm...I have an office printer that I can barely run. I'd be happy to scan a custom dawg if you can tell me how? It's a tried & true design I've been using for over thirty yrs. I sorta stole the concept from the dawgs on my Husky 2100 back in the day. I never tried to put a dawg on the Jonny clutch clover...it was never made for that and there's nothing there to help ya.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I got the nut off OK. It's the spacer bushing which maybe you don't have on your 80 or 90. That spacer jams against the large washer over the clutch face so without getting that spacer off and then the washer off I can't get the clutch off. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I got the nut off OK. It's the spacer bushing which maybe you don't have on your 80 or 90. That spacer jams against the large washer over the clutch face so without getting that spacer off and then the washer off I can't get the clutch off. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Hmmmm...maybe it's sorta welded itself on there...have you tried to work like a knife edge in there underneath it? Here's a scan of the 89/90 clutch assembly....tell me what's different?

 

[fossil]

Hmmmm...maybe it's sorta welded itself on there...have you tried to work like a knife edge in there underneath it? Here's a scan of the 89/90 clutch assembly....tell me what's different?

The same. The part that's frozen on is 5222-1. I will continue to soak it with various solvents to see if I can loosen it. I guess I will use heat as a last resort because it will damage the seal.

 

[Real1shepherd]

The same. The part that's frozen on is 5222-1. I will continue to soak it with various solvents to see if I can loosen it. I guess I will use heat as a last resort because it will damage the seal.

I see, that's the bearing race. Yeah, keep soaking with PB Blaster or Kroil penetrating oil. What I'm worried about is that it's not rust but from excessive heat and no grease scenario. Since the nut's off, do you have a little puller to lift off the drum? The threaded part of the puller should fit nicely in that grease zerk hole on the shaft. Sorry for this...I've never had to do anything but lift the drum off with my fingers. The puller teeth need to be small enough not to touch the clutch shoes...may not be possible...just an idea.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I see, that's the bearing race. Yeah, keep soaking with PB Blaster or Kroil penetrating oil. What I'm worried about is that it's not rust but from excessive heat and no grease scenario. Since the nut's off, do you have a little puller to lift off the drum? The threaded part of the puller should fit nicely in that grease zerk hole on the shaft. Sorry for this...I've never had to do anything but lift the drum off with my fingers. The puller teeth need to be small enough not to touch the clutch shoes...may not be possible...just an idea.

Kevin

Drum came off as it should. The bearing is in good shape and I don't see any evidence of excessive heat. The bearing race is stuck pretty good though.
It will come off eventually.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Drum came off as it should. The bearing is in good shape and I don't see any evidence of excessive heat. The bearing race is stuck pretty good though.
It will come off eventually.

Wow....I'm scratching my head on this one. Lack of grease on that race & bearing would usually showed up as a race that's blue and/or with heat spots. I've never seen one stuck on there. A new/used race shouldn't be that hard to find. I check the 80/90 page on ebay about everyday. I might even have a spare...let me know.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

Wow....I'm scratching my head on this one. Lack of grease on that race & bearing would usually showed up as a race that's blue and/or with heat spots. I've never seen one stuck on there. A new/used race shouldn't be that hard to find. I check the 80/90 page on ebay about everyday. I might even have a spare...let me know.

Kevin

Me too Kevin. I can't figure why it's stuck and it's on there good. I wonder if the guy put some retaining compound on it or something. I'm not ready to gall it up trying to get it off. I need to get some kroil or PB blaster tonight and try that first.

 

[fossil]

I put it back together and fired it up. I would guess the garter spring on the clutch would be the engagement issue. I was able to slow the clutch down at a normal idle speed. When I put enough pressure on the drum to stop it, it almost stalled out.
The drum does spin freely when the saw is off.
I popped the garter spring out and it is worn. The shoes can be fairly easily pushed out with the spring on.