Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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Good one Marco,

But you can plainly see it is stamped 308.

Never seen another meself, but that starter (other than the bolt pattern) is a dead ringer fer the 152.


Win some lose some, it all works out in the end.
 
I have seen that too, as i told you i think they used the last parts they had from the Dolmar 122.
Starter and rearhandle is from Dolmar 122. The stonecutterthat used the Dolmar 122 motor was called 308.
Dolmar 122 came out in 3 different type's 122, 122-122S-122SL.
The Dolmar 122 has 3 different cilinders,also there where used 3 different starters.
Old Dolmar 122 the one with the airhole's in the cover have also a other caburateur.
Later the Dolmar 123 came out, the stonecutter model was 309.
When you look at the model 123 it has een orange underpart in the rearhandle.

Marco
 
Thanks Marco,

Sorry for confusing the point when I posted that first picture of the 309.

I have a half dozen demo saws. SD made them for Wacker too!

Would you have any IPLs or other literature for the old SD or Wacker stone cutters?
 
Thanks Marco,

when you find the time send me the 308, 309, 343.

I am always looking for old Sachs Dolmar literature.

You wouldn't have anything for the 152s would you?

Thanks,

mo


(ill send you a conversation with my email address)
 
Hello Mo,

I am superdolmar and i only collector saws and paper about Dolmar.

I have papers from the model C '30 until late '80's

Dolmar 152 is have also papers from.

Marco
 
So,

you don't have any scanned to your computer?

Or are you saying you only sell them?

I sent you a conversation with my email address, check your inbox

Thanks,

mo
 
Thank you Marco!

And I've seen some of your saws over at Magnus' place.

Very very impressive is all I can say.

mo
 
Lovely picture!
412.JPG
CT?

My biggest are 152/153s, good enough for an Indiana flat lander like me.

The only way I can 'exercise' the old girls properly is to hook them up to my Home made Alaskan type mill.

I would like to add a 166 AND a CT someday to my collection.
 
Since the new format I am having trouble finding anything with the search so here goes.

Are the P/C interchangeable between the 540 and the 112?
I came across one of each. The 540 is scored bad but the rest of the saw is good. And the 112 is exact opposite, got ran over by skid steer but ran good.
So will the P/C from the 112 bolt directly into the 540?
 
Since the new format I am having trouble finding anything with the search so here goes.

Are the P/C interchangeable between the 540 and the 112?
I came across one of each. The 540 is scored bad but the rest of the saw is good. And the 112 is exact opposite, got ran over by skid steer but ran good.
So will the P/C from the 112 bolt directly into the 540?
I would check acres for specs and make sure the strokes are the same. Seems like some 112's had the black handle and some had the entire plastic handle.

You also might be able to clean the transfer off and put a new piston in. I think the 540 piston is still a aila le through dolmar..?
 
Since the new format I am having trouble finding anything with the search so here goes.

Are the P/C interchangeable between the 540 and the 112?
I came across one of each. The 540 is scored bad but the rest of the saw is good. And the 112 is exact opposite, got ran over by skid steer but ran good.
So will the P/C from the 112 bolt directly into the 540?

Short and to the point answer,..no.
Different bore and stroke between them, different chassis as well.
 
Ok so is there a special dolmar tool for removing the clutch on this ol girl?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1388897437.095730.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies gentlemen

One more question, where does a guy find the specs for the somewhat newer Dolmars like the 540, 6000, 6800 vintage. Acres has all the older "100" series models listed but nothing newer.
 
Pry that spring off and the three shoes will fall right off.

A small three jaw puller or a steering wheel puller should do the trick.

I made my own with a push bolt and three slotted holes 120 degrees apart.

Make sure you use a standoff so you are not pushing on the end of the crank snout.

They will split pretty easy, please don't ask?

When you get a good tension on the pusher bolt heat around the spyder with a heat gun or torch.

If'n it doesn't go 'tink' hold the puller and rap the pusher bolt with a soft hammer.
 
Ok so is there a special dolmar tool for removing the clutch on this ol girl?

It is a pain to do it with a 3 jaw because it is hard to get the jaws around the edge of the flange. A steering wheel puller, or an old Homelite style flywheel puller(round disc with 3 small bolts and a threaded larger od stock with a tapered pointed nose going through the middle). Harbor F-ups Tools will have one and it will be cheap enough for you to throw it at someone when you're done.
 
Thanks for the replies gentlemen

One more question, where does a guy find the specs for the somewhat newer Dolmars like the 540, 6000, 6800 vintage. Acres has all the older "100" series models listed but nothing newer.
Google "barret small engine" they have most of the husky, dolmar, and Stihl ipl's on their website.
 

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