going to take the the plunge on new maul

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demc570

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going to order the pa 80 stihl 6 pound maul,already have the x27 its does ok,but need bigger maul,since my old 8 lb handle brke,it will also get new handle soon...........
 
Can't wait for the review! I would love to have a good quality maul but hate to spend the money. I know I'm cheap ..
 
yep i hate to spend the money, but thought about it awhile...was going to buy cheaper one but most are 30 to 40.oo anyway mise well try it and be impressed or live and learn i reckon! lol
 
wanted new saw,but need the maul,and a new bar and couple chains for 028,and 361.....rs or rsk of course
 
I understand demc570 I honestly need one too . The x27 $25 on clearance has a little trouble with some of the knarly stuff.
 
I believe you will be happy with it. I thought $80.00 was a lot 9 years ago, but it has been a great tool good hickory handle. I have no complaints and would buy another, if this one walked away.
 
The "quality" of a maul is unimportant! The shape, weight, and handle length are all that is important.
Buy the cheapest you can find that has an ax eye handle and a CONVEX face. Get an angle grinder and refine and polish the faces. The maul, grinder, and disks will cost less than one of those European "hand forged" mauls.
A maul is just a wedge that you use a handle to throw, in a controlled manner, at a piece of wood. That wood does not care if the steel was cast, mashed out with a hydraulic press, held under a mechanical hammer, or actually forged by hand on an anvil with a hammer.
Just because it is left unfinished with scale and hammer marks does not make it split better. Of course, everyone knows the more you pay for something the better it is. Yeah, right!
 
Actually it does matter how it is manufactured. The hand forging produces a material that will stand up to the abuse. Not to say the other mauls don't split wood, but some will split more than others.

Definitely. Quality steel, finished off with good heat-treating gives you a chunk of metal waaaaay better than the ones on the cheapies or fiskars. Quite obvious on a-b comparison a year ago of Mueller and fiskars- fiskars way inferior.

Sometimes the head shape gets a bit more complicated, like with Wetterlings and Hultafors (also badged as Husqvarna). Almost clones. The head faces are essentially flat from the edge to a ways back. Neither convex nor concave. Beyond that, they're narrower. The Husqy one I'd have to call the Best Buy at $60-80. I've been polishing, in wood, a Wetterlings, and find the 5.5 lb head just about right for me.

The "crafted" mauls IMO also have by far the best handles out there. Way better than flexy plastic or flimsy wood. Substantial hickory that just feels up to the task.
 
I have never heard of a maul wearing out, the only cracked ones I have seen were because they were beat on with another maul. Hardened faces aren't supposed to be hit with other hardened faces. No shape has split better for me than a convex one. I play with a forge often and have a thing for good axes and knives, but splitting wood doesn't require great steel.
 
thank you all for the great comments!!:bowdown:,i went to order it yesterday,but guy i deal with was in meeting,so i try again back today........and maybe get the new handle for my old 8 pond maul as well,or buy cheap one,or all the above.....lol
 
+1 on the new handle. But good luck if you are planning on buying a handle worth a crap. Most the replacement handles I have found are cut with the grain turned the wrong way or on an angle so that the wood has a weak point in it. I started making my own handles and they hold up much better. The last several that I bought didn't last a full cord of splits. And no I didn't bash them into the handle. Just the force I can generate on a clean blow will snap any box store replacement handle that I have found.
 
I have a pa80. The quality is good but it's one of my least used mauls. It's just too clunky for me to ever take a liking too. My 2 cents, the handles is too thick for comfort and the head profile is too obtuse. With a little time I could fix both issues but honestly I just reach for another maul.
My favorite maul is the husqvarna maul. It's lighter and feels good in my hands. The bit it really thin so it sinks deep into the wood. It's just plain fun to use.

But my most used maul is the x27. It's a pos compared to the other listed above but I don't bat an eye lash abusing the ever living hell out of it.
 
+1 on the new handle. But good luck if you are planning on buying a handle worth a crap. Most the replacement handles I have found are cut with the grain turned the wrong way or on an angle so that the wood has a weak point in it. I started making my own handles and they hold up much better. The last several that I bought didn't last a full cord of splits. And no I didn't bash them into the handle. Just the force I can generate on a clean blow will snap any box store replacement handle that I have found.
Hickory handle store is good avenue if you do not want to make your own.
 
@demc570 I'm not so sure if "plunge" would be the word I'd use for a maul purchase, if one does a quick tally of the equipment in your signature line. ;) But all the same, best of luck.
 
THANKYOU EVERY ONE!!!!!ok,i know i change like the wind....lol.....but ordered the husky 6.6 maul today instead of the stihl,i like the shape of the husky better......well see HOW IT DOES, it be here 3-4 days!
 
Gransfors Bruks Splitting maul. You will love it I promise its more agile than the PA80. I too make my own handles its not hard. Ben Orford on youtube is how I learned.

 

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