Didn't know that the25DA had 2 piston rings, surprised.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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dunno how to undo the quote... got 2 micros, red & green, and 2.1/14 craftsman, non cv, yesterday if anyone needs parts
Little did you know Roger that we no longer have pennies in Canada for the timing change. I saved some though and am selling for $1 each.
Hi John,
I have two of those 3400's that are 61cc. They both have 3700 top ends on them.
They were assembled at the Skil plant in Toronto for Poulan. I also have a Canadian Tire branded 3400 with a 3800 top end in it.
I think they may used inventory imbalances to "upgrade" the saws.
I would guess that cover was swapped over from one of the 61cc saws.
Here's a rare one for sure. Unfortunately it's 2 hours away each way.
I don't see a chain brake and I can't tell if it has a .325 pitch chain like Acre's site says.
Always the entrepreneur.
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Just an idea. I'm sure you have a compression gauge. Maybe try a bit of 2 cycle down in the plug hole, take the gauge off of the hose, screw in the fitting for the plug, connect the gauge hose to a compressor and hit it with some air. Might just be enough to seat the ring where it is grabbing and push it out rather than pulling.
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Will have to block the ports too- couple pieces of 1/8 sheet anything with a piece of inner tube behind bolted strait to the cylinder. Might be able to use the muffler and carb bolts/screws.
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
I'm not saying load it up just a quick hit. maybe even one of those harbor freight air nozzles with a rag.
Or adapt a zerk fitting to the plug hole and pump grease into it until it gives..., (basic hydraulics) ..., if a PB Blaster or tranny oil soaking for a few days doesn't loosen it up.
I'm thinking out loud on this.
Go to the supermarket and hit up the seafood department for some dry ice. They ship it in styrofoam containers with fish often. We get it for free. You need to make the piston physically smaller and the cylinder larger. The linear/volumetric coefficient of expansion of aluminum will take care of the rest. Get the dry ice on top of the piston and packed underneath. Leave it for quite awhile. Warm the cylinder externally - perhaps with a heat gun. This should (could) create enough clearance between piston and cylinder for pb blaster or what have you to penetrate (orientate cylinder vertically). Perhaps a wooden dowel and gently increasing force through the spark plug hole can be used to free the piston at this stage?
*** I have not tried this exactly but know from experience in the lab with other metals that contraction of the larger inner "circle" (piston in this case) and expansion of the smaller outer "circle" (cylinder) can be achieved to relieve the binding (temporarily).
Obviously the larger the gradient the more effective. If you know where the binding is occurring, heat gun the cylinder locally as best you can while having dry ice on the top of the piston adjacent to where the heat is applied. You would likely have to move quickly before thermal equilibrium across piston/cylinder interface is established. Probably best with a couple sets of hands.
Just some thoughts. And perhaps you've tried this?
If you've any smooth dents in lighter metal it will also often work to pull them out like nobody's business. Works like a charm on motorcycle tanks, car doors....etc for certain types of dents. Heat followed quickly with carbon dioxide ice can pull them.
Good luck - Cory
Go to the supermarket and hit up the seafood department for some dry ice. They ship it in styrofoam containers with fish often. We get it for free. You need to make the piston physically smaller and the cylinder larger. The linear/volumetric coefficient of expansion of aluminum will take care of the rest. Get the dry ice on top of the piston and packed underneath. Leave it for quite awhile. Warm the cylinder externally - perhaps with a heat gun. This should (could) create enough clearance between piston and cylinder for pb blaster or what have you to penetrate (orientate cylinder vertically). Perhaps a wooden dowel and gently increasing force through the spark plug hole can be used to free the piston at this stage?
*** I have not tried this exactly but know from experience in the lab with other metals that contraction of the larger inner "circle" (piston in this case) and expansion of the smaller outer "circle" (cylinder) can be achieved to relieve the binding (temporarily).
Obviously the larger the gradient the more effective. If you know where the binding is occurring, heat gun the cylinder locally as best you can while having dry ice on the top of the piston adjacent to where the heat is applied. You would likely have to move quickly before thermal equilibrium across piston/cylinder interface is established. Probably best with a couple sets of hands.
Just some thoughts. And perhaps you've tried this?
If you've any smooth dents in lighter metal it will also often work to pull them out like nobody's business. Works like a charm on motorcycle tanks, car doors....etc for certain types of dents. Heat followed quickly with carbon dioxide ice can pull them.
Good luck - Cory
So was I, but not on nearly as elaborate a level of applying principles of physics!
Problem with either approach would be whether or not the piston was in a position that blocked the intake and exhaust ports. Hydraulic pressure from the spark plug hole would obviously require both ports to be blocked by the piston in order to be effective. The thermo differential approach would require at least minimal space between the top of the cylinder and the piston crown, plus access to the crank case itself (likely through the exhaust port) to stuff both cavities with enough dry ice to be effective....assuming both metals are indeed aluminum in the first place.
But based upon the general principles you provided, I'd give the heated cylinder approach a shot anyway just in the event it's an aluminum cylinder/plated piston setup which may be the case with that old rascal.
Otherwise, patience and persistence with the penetrating oil/tranny fluid approach works more often than not unless the crank itself has disintegrated to the extent that the debris has everything so hosed up that it just ain't gonna happen and is a lost cause.
If all else fails, drill out as much of the piston as possible through the exhaust and intake ports, start pryin' and beatin' the hell outta the whole mess, figure on replacing the bearings and probably even the whole crank, maybe get lucky somehow before having to take such drastic measures.
I'm very interested in how this one turns out...hopefully on a postiiive note!
Good luck, indeed.
Can't tell from the pic if you've got enough access under the cylinder via the bottom of the jug to get some dry ice packed there. But, it looks like the piston is half way out of the cylinder?
Another option might be to make a cooling bath by mixing dry ice into a solvent such as acetone or isopropanol. You should be able to make a solution that is -80 Celsius or so. You could then carefully pour it into the spark plug hole if there is room in the cylinder. It will cool that piston in a hurry. Drain and repeat a couple of times. Drive it out and/or drain and carefully heat the cylinder without flame.
In addition the acetone would be an excellent penetrant. Come to think of it, given that pb blaster is mostly naptha, it too should be able to be cooled with dry ice to a fairly low temp.
A bit of a stretch perhaps, but you never know.
Another option might be to make a cooling bath by mixing dry ice into a solvent such as acetone or isopropanol. You should be able to make a solution that is -80 Celsius or so. You could then carefully pour it into the spark plug hole if there is room in the cylinder. It will cool that piston in a hurry. Drain and repeat a couple of times. Drive it out and/or drain and carefully heat the cylinder without flame.
In addition the acetone would be an excellent penetrant. Come to think of it, given that pb blaster is mostly naptha, it too should be able to be cooled with dry ice to a fairly low temp.
A bit of a stretch perhaps, but you never know.
STIHL CRUSADER
ArboristSite Operative
Just a heads up. There are a couple nice Poulan's on flea bay right now. A 3300, 3400, Super xxv cv. Take a look.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
The S25 CVA is in great shape. One of the 3400's is in real good shape but unfortunately has a plastic clutch cover.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
I found this 6 hour old ad for a 655 on the local CL and it was already sold for $300. Looked to be in great shape.
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