Maul handle replacement question

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turnkey4099
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never heard that one but....in keeping with my sophomoric theme...

nothing beats a good piece of "Ash".....

I heard the same thing about antifreeze to fix a loose handle. It doesn't work. In a long life of using mauls and sledges, I have never found but one solution to a loose handle, reset it or replace it.

Harry K
 
Metals406

Metals406

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There's a product out there, or was -- that goes into the wood as a liquid and swells the wood, but then cures in a crystalaline form not allowing the wood to shrink back down. If I recall, it was a product sold to swell the tenons in furniture.
 
Chris-PA

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20140908_121518_zpswxagpt9t.jpg


Mostly aged due to leaving it out near the woodpile. I beat the crud out of it though. been good to me.
I'm wondering if it isn't an oversized hole to account for that protective shield?

I've been coating my handles with Gorilla glue after before the final fitting and wedging for some time now, and it has worked very well for me. It is not a substitue for a proper fit, but it helps it to hold up to the long term pounding.
 
Whitespider
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angelo c,
What you're looking for is a pickax handle.
With a pickax handle the "head" is dropped over the user end of the handle, which is flared at the business end where the head comes tight. Normally, with a pickax, the handle is left proud at the head so it continuously tightens with use (because of the force exerted to it as a pick). In other words, you don't "fit" a handle to that style head... you just let the head "fall"into the handle. After a bit of use, because it's a splittin' maul, you can cut the handle flush if'n ya' want... but don't do it to soon, ya' have to give the head time to "seat".

pickaxe.jpg
 
woodchuck357

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I mostly make my own handles. No big deal, I rive the handle blank so the grain runs the length of the handle with no runout. I have made handles quickly and roughly in the woods that were serviceable until a better one could be made. At times these 15 min handles wind up lasting thru years of hard use.
 
angelo c
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I'm wondering if it isn't an oversized hole to account for that protective shield?

I've been coating my handles with Gorilla glue after before the final fitting and wedging for some time now, and it has worked very well for me. It is not a substitue for a proper fit, but it helps it to hold up to the long term pounding.

cant say for sure. But i like that maul.
i spoke the folks at the website and they were very certain that what i was looking for was their 1836sm. I got one more stop tomorrow before i place my order with them. Now im in the mood for a pickeroon/hookeroon.
 
angelo c
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angelo c,
What you're looking for is a pickax handle.
With a pickax handle the "head" is dropped over the user end of the handle, which is flared at the business end where the head comes tight. Normally, with a pickax, the handle is left proud at the head so it continuously tightens with use (because of the force exerted to it as a pick). In other words, you don't "fit" a handle to that style head... you just let the head "fall"into the handle. After a bit of use, because it's a splittin' maul, you can cut the handle flush if'n ya' want... but don't do it to soon, ya' have to give the head time to "seat".

pickaxe.jpg
Thanks spidey, for the prices quoted i may just have one of these sent anyway.
 
El Quachito

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Good thread. I took a maul head with a synthetic handle and put in a wood one. It was like a small pick handle like the one in the OP. I like my local big box hardware store because I can choose the best even if it ain't perfect.
 
Idahonative

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Hoe's dont really take the beating a maul would so I wouldnt really consider that a good comparison... Im sure a handle could be made but you likely wont have anything to cut the slot for the wedge... so making a field handle becomes a moot point IMO. Broken handle = lost day (or more) without a replacement tool or handle. I heard the fiskars are nearly unbreakable. :D
Oh Marshy, you should know better than to mention the "F" word after what happened in that other thread. In the real world, "F" stands for Fiskars. On this site, "F" stands for Fight. (whisper) Don't tell anyone but I agree with you.
 
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Oh Marshy, you should know better than to mention the "F" word after what happened in that other thread. In the real world, "F" stands for Fiskars. On this site, "F" stands for Fight. (whisper) Don't tell anyone but I agree with you.
Watch yourself, I hear all of the "traditional" folk clanking their weapons together as they prepare to attack. :D
 
turnkey4099
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I have heard anti freeze is a good fix, but have never tried it.

I tried it twice for a loose handle. What happens when soaking a handle in anything is that it makes the wood swell up crushing some of the fibers, when it dries out it shrinks some = loose handle again. Yes, antifreeze and other chemicals will lose some volume as they 'dry or cure'

Harry K
 
alleyyooper

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I have several Hickory and Ash blanks in the rafters of my pole barn all peeled and dry ready to quickly make a handle for about any wooden handle tool. A good draw knife makes quick work of getting close and a rasp will finish it off just fine.
Bought one of those plastic replacement handles once for my splitting maul. Problem with them is they over a year get loose and the only way to fix them is to take them out grind down the old glue and reglue them back in place for another year. Had a plastic handle sledge break last winter. Figure the plastic couldn't handle the bitter minus zero cold. It has a nice hickory handle now.
At this time I am on the search for the just right size hickory to make a handle for a garden fork I am going to need come spring 2015.

:D Al
 

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