I heard the same thing about antifreeze to fix a loose handle. It doesn't work. In a long life of using mauls and sledges, I have never found but one solution to a loose handle, reset it or replace it.
Harry K
Maul handle replacement question
- Thread starter angelo c
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I heard the same thing about antifreeze to fix a loose handle. It doesn't work. In a long life of using mauls and sledges, I have never found but one solution to a loose handle, reset it or replace it.
Harry K
Eric Modell
ArboristSite Operative
I have heard anti freeze is a good fix, but have never tried it.
As long as it isn't extremely loose soak it in water over night. Usually lasts for a couple months.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
There's a product out there, or was -- that goes into the wood as a liquid and swells the wood, but then cures in a crystalaline form not allowing the wood to shrink back down. If I recall, it was a product sold to swell the tenons in furniture.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Yup, that stuff.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I'm wondering if it isn't an oversized hole to account for that protective shield?
Mostly aged due to leaving it out near the woodpile. I beat the crud out of it though. been good to me.
I've been coating my handles with Gorilla glue after before the final fitting and wedging for some time now, and it has worked very well for me. It is not a substitue for a proper fit, but it helps it to hold up to the long term pounding.
angelo c,
What you're looking for is a pickax handle.
With a pickax handle the "head" is dropped over the user end of the handle, which is flared at the business end where the head comes tight. Normally, with a pickax, the handle is left proud at the head so it continuously tightens with use (because of the force exerted to it as a pick). In other words, you don't "fit" a handle to that style head... you just let the head "fall"into the handle. After a bit of use, because it's a splittin' maul, you can cut the handle flush if'n ya' want... but don't do it to soon, ya' have to give the head time to "seat".
What you're looking for is a pickax handle.
With a pickax handle the "head" is dropped over the user end of the handle, which is flared at the business end where the head comes tight. Normally, with a pickax, the handle is left proud at the head so it continuously tightens with use (because of the force exerted to it as a pick). In other words, you don't "fit" a handle to that style head... you just let the head "fall"into the handle. After a bit of use, because it's a splittin' maul, you can cut the handle flush if'n ya' want... but don't do it to soon, ya' have to give the head time to "seat".
woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
I mostly make my own handles. No big deal, I rive the handle blank so the grain runs the length of the handle with no runout. I have made handles quickly and roughly in the woods that were serviceable until a better one could be made. At times these 15 min handles wind up lasting thru years of hard use.
cant say for sure. But i like that maul.
i spoke the folks at the website and they were very certain that what i was looking for was their 1836sm. I got one more stop tomorrow before i place my order with them. Now im in the mood for a pickeroon/hookeroon.
Thanks spidey, for the prices quoted i may just have one of these sent anyway.angelo c,
What you're looking for is a pickax handle.
With a pickax handle the "head" is dropped over the user end of the handle, which is flared at the business end where the head comes tight. Normally, with a pickax, the handle is left proud at the head so it continuously tightens with use (because of the force exerted to it as a pick). In other words, you don't "fit" a handle to that style head... you just let the head "fall"into the handle. After a bit of use, because it's a splittin' maul, you can cut the handle flush if'n ya' want... but don't do it to soon, ya' have to give the head time to "seat".
El Quachito
ArboristSite Operative
Good thread. I took a maul head with a synthetic handle and put in a wood one. It was like a small pick handle like the one in the OP. I like my local big box hardware store because I can choose the best even if it ain't perfect.
Idahonative
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh Marshy, you should know better than to mention the "F" word after what happened in that other thread. In the real world, "F" stands for Fiskars. On this site, "F" stands for Fight. (whisper) Don't tell anyone but I agree with you.Hoe's dont really take the beating a maul would so I wouldnt really consider that a good comparison... Im sure a handle could be made but you likely wont have anything to cut the slot for the wedge... so making a field handle becomes a moot point IMO. Broken handle = lost day (or more) without a replacement tool or handle. I heard the fiskars are nearly unbreakable.
Watch yourself, I hear all of the "traditional" folk clanking their weapons together as they prepare to attack.
Idahonative
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried it twice for a loose handle. What happens when soaking a handle in anything is that it makes the wood swell up crushing some of the fibers, when it dries out it shrinks some = loose handle again. Yes, antifreeze and other chemicals will lose some volume as they 'dry or cure'
Harry K
Now that looks like a good solution. I wonder if it bonds to the head though. I'll be looking for some as both my sledge and maul have loose handles again - both have already been reset twice over several years.
Harry K
yup..got some,,good stuff. bit costly,,but then..............
alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have several Hickory and Ash blanks in the rafters of my pole barn all peeled and dry ready to quickly make a handle for about any wooden handle tool. A good draw knife makes quick work of getting close and a rasp will finish it off just fine.
Bought one of those plastic replacement handles once for my splitting maul. Problem with them is they over a year get loose and the only way to fix them is to take them out grind down the old glue and reglue them back in place for another year. Had a plastic handle sledge break last winter. Figure the plastic couldn't handle the bitter minus zero cold. It has a nice hickory handle now.
At this time I am on the search for the just right size hickory to make a handle for a garden fork I am going to need come spring 2015.
Al
Bought one of those plastic replacement handles once for my splitting maul. Problem with them is they over a year get loose and the only way to fix them is to take them out grind down the old glue and reglue them back in place for another year. Had a plastic handle sledge break last winter. Figure the plastic couldn't handle the bitter minus zero cold. It has a nice hickory handle now.
At this time I am on the search for the just right size hickory to make a handle for a garden fork I am going to need come spring 2015.
Al
