New Husqvarna hand tools

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I have a fiskars x25 and have become very accustomed to it and if I had the money I'd try one of these new husky axes. I have shoulder pain quite often and I find that the fiskars is easier for me to use, and I can swing longer with it. I have my dads 8# maul with a fiberglass handle in it that I watched him put in it when I was a kid. That being said, I like them both but the fiskars hurts less at the end of the day. I'll never argue that one is better than the other, fiskars works for me. If three swings of the fiskars won't pop it, to the hydro it goes!



Philbert, on oiling that fiskars Axe you got, might I suggest Belray @ 32:1............
 
In fairness, I'd also be open to trying one of those $150+ Swedish axes/maul, with an open mind. But I would have to be pretty impressed before buying one.
(My mind is often more open than my wallet).

Philbert
I've done a lot of research on the high dollar splitting tools and the results vary from slightly worse to slightly better than the tool we won't mention DEPENDING on user and wood. I split some ash with one of them and it was a well constructed piece. Didn't split enough to form an opinion either way versus the Finnish wonder.

There's something to be said about an heirloom tool to pass through the generations and there's also something to be said about a beat it up, throw it around, throw it away tool.
 
If you like fiskars go for it. I have a couple of the axes and splitting axes but was never impressed with them overall. I'll use the axes when I'm cutting something where it might get grounded since they are fairly cheap.
Personally I don't like axes or mauls with plastic or fiberglass handles. If I'm back in the woods the warranty isn't doing me a lot of good if I break handle. It will be at least 6 weeks before you see a replacement. Whereas with a wood handle I can either carry an extra in the truck or pop into about any hardware store and get a replacement. Plus in a prepper type situation as in some type of emergency you could make a handle if you needed to.

Just my two cents. Now who has the popcorn?


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Interesting comment on the handles. I have a neighbor who used to search garage sales for old hammers, axe heads, mauls, etc., and fit them with replacement handles. Stopped doing this because he said that the right handles are harder and harder to find. I have also had friends years ago who tried carving their own replacement handles on canoe trips: no ash or hickory where we canoed; no kiln drying; no bandsaws; not even a draw knife with us. Results were pretty pathetic. Not saying it could not be done, but its not that easy. That is why many canoe campers started carrying the Estwing axes. Trade off is that the all metal axes are less comfortable to use. A 'prepper' might be better off to have a few axes: he/she will need them after their chainsaws and 4WD trucks stop running due to lack of gas, parts, and stuff.

Philbert
 
This discussion is getting interesting. Hard for me to envision HAVING to use hand tools with the stupid amount of chainsaws that I own, but I think about what Philbert posted also. I agree it makes sense to have a few; and of different sizes as well. But using them is only part of the equation. Sharpening them is where the real skill comes in. I've pretty much mastered putting a real nice edge on an axe. Use a 4 step process that always produces good results.

Sharpening a crosscut is a whole 'nother matter. I have a few old crosscut saws and I've been working on one a little at a time, making sure not to ruin the thing. Just trying to stay with what was there. I've got it to where it will cut OK, but not where it really ought to be. There is a WEEK long class on crosscut sharpening that it available to NY forest rangers. So, there's quite a bit to learn about this process.

Cutting wood without chainsaws is a reality that isn't all that far back on the time line. It's not like you have to look back into the 1800's. One man chainsaws really didn't appear until the 50's, which is within many of our lifetimes. And they were seriously expensive. (last week a customer brought in a 1951 McCulloch price list. I see if I can figure out how to scan it and share with you guys)

So, getting it all done with hand tools is a reality that old timers can still tell stories about. Just using these tools around the house can be humbling if you imagine yourself producing 4-5 cords of wood with them, as was done in the past. Doing wood with modern saws and hydraulic splitters isn't even work compared to that. I think this partially explains our interest in all of these splitting axes and mauls. They have survived the years and are the last of these tools still in widespread use.
 
This discussion is getting interesting. Hard for me to envision HAVING to use hand tools with the stupid amount of chainsaws that I own, but I think about what Philbert posted also. I agree it makes sense to have a few; and of different sizes as well. But using them is only part of the equation. Sharpening them is where the real skill comes in. I've pretty much mastered putting a real nice edge on an axe. Use a 4 step process that always produces good results.

Sharpening a crosscut is a whole 'nother matter. I have a few old crosscut saws and I've been working on one a little at a time, making sure not to ruin the thing. Just trying to stay with what was there. I've got it to where it will cut OK, but not where it really ought to be. There is a WEEK long class on crosscut sharpening that it available to NY forest rangers. So, there's quite a bit to learn about this process.

Cutting wood without chainsaws is a reality that isn't all that far back on the time line. It's not like you have to look back into the 1800's. One man chainsaws really didn't appear until the 50's, which is within many of our lifetimes. And they were seriously expensive. (last week a customer brought in a 1951 McCulloch price list. I see if I can figure out how to scan it and share with you guys)

So, getting it all done with hand tools is a reality that old timers can still tell stories about. Just using these tools around the house can be humbling if you imagine yourself producing 4-5 cords of wood with them, as was done in the past. Doing wood with modern saws and hydraulic splitters isn't even work compared to that. I think this partially explains our interest in all of these splitting axes and mauls. They have survived the years and are the last of these tools still in widespread use.

When I was cutting my yearly wood by hand, 4-6 cord, I *mostly* used a bowsaw and cut a million smalls. The big crosscut got used sometimes, but I tried to limit the use for several reasons. You could cut real big wood, now you have to move it by hand, plus split by hand. I guess in ye aulden daze, teams of guys and teams of draft animals helped, I had neither...

With a bowsaw, it forces you to scrounge smaller and cut smaller, with a resultant much less hand splitting required.

Sharpening the bowsaw consists of buying a new cheap blade. When my crosscut needed it, I took it into town to the old guy at the sharpening shop.

I could fool around with both and try and sharpen myself, it was silly at the time. I watched the old guy and got the theory down, etc, but he had the special wide vise and proper tools.
 
Right you are Zogger. You can get a lot done with a bowsaw if you stick to the small stuff. (you and I are always preaching the small stuff lol) They are far more productive in 3-5 inch wood than trying to tackle bigger stuff. And no splitting like you said. Bowsaws/bucksaws were often used that way by individuals working alone who had neither access to draft animals or a crew of guys. That stuff was usually on a farm or how production/commercial cutting was done.

And yeah, you don't sharpen a bowsaw, cause they are so cheap. I have 21" and 30" Fiskars bowsaws and they are both cheap and very good. (I can hear a couple guys laughing right now :) ) I sell these things in the store for $10, so no one would think of having them sharpened at those prices.

But sawing anything bigger than 6" with a bowsaw gets tedious real quick, so that is where a crosscut would be preferrable. A well sharpened crosscut can get through medium sized wood reasonably quick. Moving and splitting the blocks at that point is really about the same as what we are doing now after cutting with a chainsaw. The main difference is that you haven't worn yourself out cutting the wood with a chainsaw and still have some energy to deal with the rounds. :)

How's that bite coming along?
 
Right you are Zogger. You can get a lot done with a bowsaw if you stick to the small stuff. (you and I are always preaching the small stuff lol) They are far more productive in 3-5 inch wood than trying to tackle bigger stuff. And no splitting like you said. Bowsaws/bucksaws were often used that way by individuals working alone who had neither access to draft animals or a crew of guys. That stuff was usually on a farm or how production/commercial cutting was done.

And yeah, you don't sharpen a bowsaw, cause they are so cheap. I have 21" and 30" Fiskars bowsaws and they are both cheap and very good. (I can hear a couple guys laughing right now :) ) I sell these things in the store for $10, so no one would think of having them sharpened at those prices.

But sawing anything bigger than 6" with a bowsaw gets tedious real quick, so that is where a crosscut would be preferrable. A well sharpened crosscut can get through medium sized wood reasonably quick. Moving and splitting the blocks at that point is really about the same as what we are doing now after cutting with a chainsaw. The main difference is that you haven't worn yourself out cutting the wood with a chainsaw and still have some energy to deal with the rounds. :)

How's that bite coming along?

Thanks, about completely better now.

The crosscut I used to use was too big for medium wood really.

Now what I have never owned and I think might be practical for that medium sized wood would be a bucksaw.
 
Spike,

I picked up a few older crosscut saws a few years back - after trying some that were well tuned and fun to use ('fun' because I did not have to use them!). Mine are still in my 'projects pile'. Posted some links to resources in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/crosscut-saw-manuals-references.210332/

Interesting (to me at least) is that if you go back to the patent application for modern chainsaw chain (1946), one of the big claims of the inventor is that it is so much easier to sharpen: the file sharpens the top plate edge and the side plate edge at the same time; if you keep all cutters the same length, you are also 'jointing' and 'setting' the teeth at the same time; and, there are no real 'rakers' to heat, form, and set as on crosscut saws.

Philbert
 
Spike,

I picked up a few older crosscut saws a few years back - after trying some that were well tuned and fun to use ('fun' because I did not have to use them!). Mine are still in my 'projects pile'. Posted some links to resources in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/crosscut-saw-manuals-references.210332/

Interesting (to me at least) is that if you go back to the patent application for modern chainsaw chain (1946), one of the big claims of the inventor is that it is so much easier to sharpen: the file sharpens the top plate edge and the side plate edge at the same time; if you keep all cutters the same length, you are also 'jointing' and 'setting' the teeth at the same time; and, there are no real 'rakers' to heat, form, and set as on crosscut saws.

Philbert


Wow, this is good, thank you! Think I'm distracted for the remainder of the afternoon.......:clap:
 
I know right where you are at, I like to fish the St. Regis on the stretch below lookout when I get the chance.
 
In fairness, I'd also be open to trying one of those $150+ Swedish axes/maul, with an open mind. But I would have to be pretty impressed before buying one.
(My mind is often more open than my wallet).

Philbert

No need to spend that much. The husky maul retails at around 70 dollars. It's made by hultsbruks and is damn near the same as the wetterlings version.
 
I have my hultbrucks forest axe from my BIL. He found a bunch of garden stuff (rakes, axe, etc.) in the garbage. It had some surface rust and after a quick go over with the angle grinder with a wire brush it was clean and shiny like new again. I found the punch mark and had to google it to find out I got a 80€ axe for free! Not bad!

7
 
Bob , if you could get me one of them both in the Stihl brand and Husky brand , I'd do a side by side comparison Utube video to see which one splits better , I'd give your shop a free plug in the video .
 
I know right where you are at, I like to fish the St. Regis on the stretch below lookout when I get the chance.

Lots of Game and berries in that area. I know of two very large Elderberry patches in there. I've 8 gallons of Elderberry Wine fermenting from this years harvest. Out this morning up by Up Up Lookout and found a Mountain Lion dominated area. Will likely be getting a tag and go in after this predator soon. Hayden, above Coeur d'Alene, another beautiful area.

I'm enjoying a nice Grouse Breast rice dish from todays scouting. :)
 
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