Stihl 026 chainsaw

[Stihlofadeal64]

So my saw doesn't have a decompression valve, but I do have the adjustable oil

Unless yours is the 026 pro it shouldn't have the adjustable oiler. That is, unless someone has fitted it with one after the fact. Turn the crank case over and look at the bottom. If it has the adjustable oiler you will see an adjustment screw hole U shaped notch and underneath should be an adjustment screw. If not its the common automatic oiler that oils as soon as the saw is started.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Well after looking closer the bearing is fine, and I cleaned the saw and oiled the bearing. Is it normal on these saws to have the paint stained by the exhaust?

yes perfectly so.

 

[aikensjc]

Unless yours is the 026 pro it shouldn't have the adjustable oiler. That is, unless someone has fitted it with one after the fact. Turn the crank case over and look at the bottom. If it has the adjustable oiler you will see an adjustment screw hole U shaped notch and underneath should be an adjustment screw. If not its the common automatic oiler that oils as soon as the saw is started.

I do have the U shaped notch and the bar oil symbol, and shouldn't the top cover have the pro sticker if so?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Based on your reply to the question about the adjustable oiler, you can be certain that it is a pro.
The top end was changed out with a non pro model.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

I do have the U shaped notch and the bar oil symbol, and shouldn't the top cover have the pro sticker if so?

Stihl made the cases and used them for the 026 base and the pro with the U notch even if the adjustable oiler was not installed.
The basic difference between the 026 and the pro is the adjustable oiler (sprocket to match) and the decomp cylinder. The tanks changed along that line as well so that the pro's had a newer style tank vent not the old black stack. They also added a compensating carb and a newer style filter.

Honestly I love the old style 026's. With a few simple tweeks they can be made to run very well.

 

[aikensjc]

Stihl made the cases and used them for the 026 base and the pro with the U notch even if the adjustable oiler was not installed.
The basic difference between the 026 and the pro is the adjustable oiler (sprocket to match) and the decomp cylinder. The tanks changed along that line as well so that the pro's had a newer style tank vent not the old black stack. They also added a compensating carb and a newer style filter.

Honestly I love the old style 026's. With a few simple tweeks they can be made to run very well.

yep I looked and there's no adjuster, and what simple tweaks?

 

[SawTroll]

Unless yours is the 026 pro it shouldn't have the adjustable oiler. That is, unless someone has fitted it with one after the fact. Turn the crank case over and look at the bottom. If it has the adjustable oiler you will see an adjustment screw hole U shaped notch and underneath should be an adjustment screw. If not its the common automatic oiler that oils as soon as the saw is started.

There existed at least some 260s with non-adjustablw clutch dreiven oilears, in addition to those versions.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

There existed at least some 260s with non-adjustablw clutch dreiven oilears, in addition to those versions.

Your are correct sir. The non pro MS260's all had the standard automatic oilers. They also used the old style clutch with no washer behind if memory serves. The thing the old oilers do that so many complain about is -- they begin oiling as soon as the crank turns -- so they provide a superabundance of oil. Unlike the adjustable oilers which only oil as the clutch is engaged. Actually if one waits to crank the saw till they intend to cut (and refrains from overly piss-revving) the automatic oiler is not bad.

 

[sld961]

I picked up a Stihl 026 non-pro chainsaw the other day for 20$

Nobody has said it yet, so I will: You Suck. $20 is a great deal for an 026 even if it has a roached top end. Pics of the saw? Pics of the cylinder? Why was it assumed that the cylinder was bad? Is the piston bad?

 

[aikensjc]

Nobody has said it yet, so I will: You Suck. $20 is a great deal for an 026 even if it has a roached top end. Pics of the saw? Pics of the cylinder? Why was it assumed that the cylinder was bad? Is the piston bad?

well I got it from a Stihl dealer/small engine shop, the guy said the top end was toast but when I got to looking in there was no scoring, not much wear either, Ill post pics when I get home

 

[aikensjc]

Proud to announce my ******* 20$ saw is alive and well!

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Proud to announce my ******* 20$ saw is alive and well!

 

[aikensjc]

Good and running, but I think I have a air leak, saw revs high and takes awhile to return to idle, the at idle it runs rough

 

[aikensjc]

20$ saw is all done 18" bar

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Don't burn it up. They are somewhat notorious for crank seals leaking. I'm pretty sure the flywheel side is the problematic seal. Well worth fixing

 

[bikemike]

Lol okok, should I pick up this ms 170 on Craigslist for 100$?

That would be 1 spendy hood ornament

 

[sld961]

20$ saw is all done 18" bar

That's a nice looking saw.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Good and running, but I think I have a air leak, saw revs high and takes awhile to return to idle, the at idle it runs rough

Time to do a pressure vac check. There are quite a few threads and even a video or 2 I believe on here. Don't run it till you get that resolved. It will torch the top end. Get it vac tested before you move forward.

 

[aikensjc]

Yep I found the issue, the intake boot wasn't fully on the cylinder, I runs as it should now, mixed the gas extra heavy for the first tank (35:1)

 

[Mad Professor]

Yep I found the issue, the intake boot wasn't fully on the cylinder, I runs as it should now, mixed the gas extra heavy for the first tank (35:1)

Shop manuals even suggest how to orient the clamp for the boot. I put the boot on the cylinder before installation, then use the string trick to pull it through the handle housing