Im a die hard filer....So believe me I will critique this thing like no tomorrow.
FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener
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tawilson
Addicted to ArboristSite
Arnie, I don't know. It looks to me like the one I just finished grinding is much shorter the the far one which hadn't been. I definitely took a lot of metal off on the first chain. A little less on the next, and so on. These were all chains which had been messed up so much that I didn't want to hand file back in shape, so good to tune up on.
grandpatractor
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was telling the missus about the deal and lo and behold she ordered me one for christmas
They told her mid january.
They told her mid january.
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep the plastic bands are the key.
Mine also had a sticker that said "Re packaged" on it and everything was intact and in good order.
In regards to stihlatits concern about the differing tooth length Ive got a fix for that, but I had a big day today, Ill post it later on, its a fairly simple fix.
My local shops oregon has the same problem, but an operator that is skilled can lessen the effect.
Im not allways that skilled......
were waiting one the cure for the diff tooth length RBW--as now the base is fixed--and the tooth length is only bug left!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it rocks
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry bout the wait, I only have three hands!
OK, contrary to popular belief, your not quite done with the base yet.
Ok, go over and grab your grinder by the motor (or handle) and see if you can rock the head left-right in reference to the base.
You need to look where the rear of the head portion (below the hinge) mates to the base when doing this. (right above the * scale) If you can rock this by pushing left-right on the head and open up a slight gap where these two parts come together you will need to grind the lil casting tab down as I have in this pic.
The tab was situated right above the bolt hole and was keeping the two surfaces from mating flush with each other. Notice where the paint is partially scuffed where I ran a flat file across the entire surfact to insure flatness.
That took care of the majority of the inacuracys that could be caused by the force of your hand bringing the head down to the tooth due to it traveling through an angle and the tendency of wanting to pull straight down sometimes and to the side (with the angle) at other times.
But there was still some slop in the base that needed to be eliminated.
I found when the base was loosened to swivel the vise to do left or right hand cutters that there was some side to side movement in the two castings. If the vise wasnt consistantly pushed to the same side you would get noticably differing length cutters.
All thats needed here is a thin shim mounted in the base pivot ring that takes up the excess play. I used .010 stainless shim stock due to knowing it would not only act as a shim but also would act as a spring to help center the vise flange in the base ring. You can use Brass shim from a local hobby shop if you cant get stainless. With either you may need slightly thicker or thinner shim but I think .010 will give you good results.
This pic is looking straight down at the base ring. you can see the faint thin shine of the shim inside the pivot ring. It simply rests inside the eight lil bumpers that are in there.
Heres a shot of the same shim and how I anchored it. At first I had problems with it wanting to rotate when the vise was rotated and jaming up and not wanting to turn. Then I tried cutting the shim about 1/2" shorter and turning the ends out so they locked on on of the bumpers and Viola, it works perfectly!
Ok you didnt think I was done did you?
I had one last idea for making this lil grinder easier to use, I kind of expanded Butch(oh)'s idea, so Ill give him credit for inspiring this one.
I made a bearing of sorts for the base that lets the vise pivot easier when being turned. The entire unit is made from aluminum, whenever you have Alu rubbing Alu you will have problems with the two surfaces "Galling". That is they will pick up particles of Alu from each other and this will build up causing a gritty, stiff feeling when you try and rotate it.
I solved this by cutting a washer out of SS and fitting it to the base ring as shown.
The washer had to be slipped off the base for the pic otherwise it could not be seen. this washer needs to be free of burrs and sharp edges asthey will dig in and defeat the purpose. With this in place the two halves of the base each have a nice smooth surface to glide on and it will also reject grinding dust where the it would imbed in the Alu.
Now I have a chain grinder that is nicer to use than my local shops oregon unit. You actually have to try and make the cutters turn out different by more than .010-.015.
Thats plenty close enough for our purposes.
OK, contrary to popular belief, your not quite done with the base yet.
Ok, go over and grab your grinder by the motor (or handle) and see if you can rock the head left-right in reference to the base.
You need to look where the rear of the head portion (below the hinge) mates to the base when doing this. (right above the * scale) If you can rock this by pushing left-right on the head and open up a slight gap where these two parts come together you will need to grind the lil casting tab down as I have in this pic.
The tab was situated right above the bolt hole and was keeping the two surfaces from mating flush with each other. Notice where the paint is partially scuffed where I ran a flat file across the entire surfact to insure flatness.
That took care of the majority of the inacuracys that could be caused by the force of your hand bringing the head down to the tooth due to it traveling through an angle and the tendency of wanting to pull straight down sometimes and to the side (with the angle) at other times.
But there was still some slop in the base that needed to be eliminated.
I found when the base was loosened to swivel the vise to do left or right hand cutters that there was some side to side movement in the two castings. If the vise wasnt consistantly pushed to the same side you would get noticably differing length cutters.
All thats needed here is a thin shim mounted in the base pivot ring that takes up the excess play. I used .010 stainless shim stock due to knowing it would not only act as a shim but also would act as a spring to help center the vise flange in the base ring. You can use Brass shim from a local hobby shop if you cant get stainless. With either you may need slightly thicker or thinner shim but I think .010 will give you good results.
This pic is looking straight down at the base ring. you can see the faint thin shine of the shim inside the pivot ring. It simply rests inside the eight lil bumpers that are in there.
Heres a shot of the same shim and how I anchored it. At first I had problems with it wanting to rotate when the vise was rotated and jaming up and not wanting to turn. Then I tried cutting the shim about 1/2" shorter and turning the ends out so they locked on on of the bumpers and Viola, it works perfectly!
Ok you didnt think I was done did you?
I had one last idea for making this lil grinder easier to use, I kind of expanded Butch(oh)'s idea, so Ill give him credit for inspiring this one.
I made a bearing of sorts for the base that lets the vise pivot easier when being turned. The entire unit is made from aluminum, whenever you have Alu rubbing Alu you will have problems with the two surfaces "Galling". That is they will pick up particles of Alu from each other and this will build up causing a gritty, stiff feeling when you try and rotate it.
I solved this by cutting a washer out of SS and fitting it to the base ring as shown.
The washer had to be slipped off the base for the pic otherwise it could not be seen. this washer needs to be free of burrs and sharp edges asthey will dig in and defeat the purpose. With this in place the two halves of the base each have a nice smooth surface to glide on and it will also reject grinding dust where the it would imbed in the Alu.
Now I have a chain grinder that is nicer to use than my local shops oregon unit.
You actually have to try and make the cutters turn out different by more than .010-.015.Thats plenty close enough for our purposes.
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RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Heres the last two lil things I did, these are minor additions but they make it easier to use the unit and give it a smother feel.
First is the cupped washer that goes undre the handle that secures the vise in position. This washer has a slight burr (raised edge) from the stamping process. I simply rubbed this on a sheet of sand paper placed on a flat surface. You can see the shine of the edge where it was sanded down in this pic.
Second was the addition of a small spring to the tooth stop to make to act as a ratchet when advancing the chain. I had to drill my own hole due to the spring that I made, but if you find the right spring (pen spring?) you may be able to use the holes that are there. You dont want too much spring, just enough to overcome the force fo the adjusting springs tendency to keep the stop elevated when the tooth has advanced.
Too much spring and the chain will grab the stop.
I should have mentioned that it took me as long to make that post as it did to make these changes.
It seems like a lot or like it may be difficult but its not too bad.
First is the cupped washer that goes undre the handle that secures the vise in position. This washer has a slight burr (raised edge) from the stamping process. I simply rubbed this on a sheet of sand paper placed on a flat surface. You can see the shine of the edge where it was sanded down in this pic.
Second was the addition of a small spring to the tooth stop to make to act as a ratchet when advancing the chain. I had to drill my own hole due to the spring that I made, but if you find the right spring (pen spring?) you may be able to use the holes that are there. You dont want too much spring, just enough to overcome the force fo the adjusting springs tendency to keep the stop elevated when the tooth has advanced.
Too much spring and the chain will grab the stop.
I should have mentioned that it took me as long to make that post as it did to make these changes.
It seems like a lot or like it may be difficult but its not too bad.
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beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Can I be the first one to ask for a SS washer, since you have the blueprint and resources...lol
thanks for the tips. I know mine has a little side to side play that needs to be taken care of
thanks for the tips. I know mine has a little side to side play that needs to be taken care of
tawilson
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cut it how?
I was wondering that too. Maybe if I had a couple of holesaws the right size?
PA Plumber
Addicted to ArboristSite
I ordered a grinder last week, but will probably be ages before it shows up. I would also be interested in the SS washer. Cost? Very likely that will definitely be needed. Otherwise, the rest looks like an if needed basis.
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh, Ive created a monster!
The SS is fairly easy to cut as its very thin, you would loose a finger with a hole saw.
As far as how I did it, I used a industrial hole punch (Rotodex) and knocked out and nibbled away the inner portion and then ground it to fit.
I guess since I got this ball rolling Ill make up a small crowd of them as it will be just as easy to make 10 as it was to make one.
Easier actually.
I wont be back to work untill next wed though.
Someone throw a rock at me if you dont hear from me on this in a week.
.
The SS is fairly easy to cut as its very thin, you would loose a finger with a hole saw.
As far as how I did it, I used a industrial hole punch (Rotodex) and knocked out and nibbled away the inner portion and then ground it to fit.
I guess since I got this ball rolling Ill make up a small crowd of them as it will be just as easy to make 10 as it was to make one.
Easier actually.
I wont be back to work untill next wed though.
Someone throw a rock at me if you dont hear from me on this in a week.
.
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
So, the couple hundred you just got yourself in for should be a piece of cake, right????
drogueman
ArboristSite Operative
Excelent post on the sharpener mods, the pics were great. I just finished doing up a few chains and I wish I had read this post before I did them, kinda got caught up in all the glory of using the sharpener. Me and my buddy
(woodward15) had a little saw race today using 4 different saws and the northern sharpener plays a part in this. Woody put a new set of rings on a little Homelite 33cc and wanted to run it up against 2 of 7 of my saws and another one of his. He fired up the little homelite and slammed it into a 12 inch pine and it wouldn't cut s%$t so we took the chain off and put a professional edge on it with the Nothern sharpener. Then with a stop watch timed it cutting through the pine. I then ran my Husky 44 up against it and the Homelite beat it by 4 seconds. It also beat my Shindaiwa 377 and his Husky 61. The bragging rights were flying and we just couldn't under stand how this little homelite pulled this off,lol. Theory is my husky 44 had a new 18 inch bar and chain instead of a 16 and dragging the power down. The Shindaiwa had a worn chain with 20 different degree angles on it from free hand sharpening. The husky 61 also had a much larger bar and chain and also pulling the RPMs down. This is all theory and I think the edge the northern sharpener put on the Homelite made a big difference. All in all it was a fun day and very interesting, just thought I would share that with you guys.:bang:
(woodward15) had a little saw race today using 4 different saws and the northern sharpener plays a part in this. Woody put a new set of rings on a little Homelite 33cc and wanted to run it up against 2 of 7 of my saws and another one of his. He fired up the little homelite and slammed it into a 12 inch pine and it wouldn't cut s%$t so we took the chain off and put a professional edge on it with the Nothern sharpener. Then with a stop watch timed it cutting through the pine. I then ran my Husky 44 up against it and the Homelite beat it by 4 seconds. It also beat my Shindaiwa 377 and his Husky 61. The bragging rights were flying and we just couldn't under stand how this little homelite pulled this off,lol. Theory is my husky 44 had a new 18 inch bar and chain instead of a 16 and dragging the power down. The Shindaiwa had a worn chain with 20 different degree angles on it from free hand sharpening. The husky 61 also had a much larger bar and chain and also pulling the RPMs down. This is all theory and I think the edge the northern sharpener put on the Homelite made a big difference. All in all it was a fun day and very interesting, just thought I would share that with you guys.:bang:
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
So, the couple hundred you just got yourself in for should be a piece of cake, right????
Hell yeah, any amount over 100 and it happens automatically.
Im going to try and get one of my CowIrkers to make me a cad program and have them cut on the EDM.
This way they can be made by the dozen and the only costs will be for the material.
The lil spring strips will have to be made by hand though.:help:
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.
I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....
I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....
Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.
I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....
RBW, I sent you a PM, but Im interested too, just let us know how much.
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.
I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....
Dont sweat the rep.
And I think your going to find the cost werry agreeable.
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
I'm going to have to take a drive down the extension and visit you one of these days... :hmm3grin2orange:
