Granberg File-N-Joint, Revisited

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One of my neighbors gave me an early (very good fit-and-finish) Granberg FNJ. He used to do a lot of cutting in Arkansas and was a good hand-filer.

I tinkered with it one time. Once I reclaim my work-space in the garage I plan to put it to good use.
 
Maybe someone can show me how to set it up for square filing?

This is how I did it:
Here's what my setup looks like mounted on the bar. Top plate angle is about 22*, down angle is about 40*. I say "about" because the increments are marked off pretty roughly, and I'm hitting them as close as I can without a protractor.

DSCN1509.jpg


Here's how the file is aligned to the tooth. Note that the wide side of the hex file is pointed up into the underside of the top plate, and the small side down into the corner.

DSCN1512.jpg


It's pretty easy to avoid beaks with this setup by realigning slightly with the swinging arm for each cutter. Two or three swipes usually does it.

Also note that the jig is un-modified. I'm just using the little hex files in place of the double bevel file.

The six-sided ones are the ones you want; keep the small face against the side plate and the long face under the top plate.
 
That one is missing the notches that allow a double bevel file to work in it. I have no doubt that those notches can be added though.
 
My dad found an old one under the bench (it looks like a granberg). It needs a good cleaning but seems to a good quality one. I will add pics when I get to it.
 
That one is missing the notches that allow a double bevel file to work in it. I have no doubt that those notches can be added though.

I recommend the triangle files for this job. They're a lot less trouble to chuck up in the jig. Double bevels are a hand-filing tool, unless you have one of those spendy things I have forgotten the name of.
 
So I just set the Original Granberg up for square and gave it a go.
I'm finding that there isn't enough height adjustment to get me where I need to be.
:(
I can make it work, but I foresee some inconsistency
 
I have the new plastic guide, the husky roller, and a timberline. The Oregon is good, but too clunky to carry for field sharpening, I also ended up cutting crooked sometimes.
The husky roller is the fastest way for touching up a chain every other tankful.
The timberline is the fastest way to get a razor sharp chain that seems to last longer than any other.
I also have the handheld Oregon electric sharpener, useless IMO.
 
How well do the cheap Husqvarna sharpeners do? I talking about the one that pops over the chain and has 2 rollers.

Thanks
 
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