the all aussie dribble thread!

[Jimbo209]

Noob question. How important is it for the cutters to be the same length right to left. ?

Think IF the rackers are set well/evenly @ 6-7 Degrees all good.
Was it a rock nail pipe or other

 

[Jimbo209]

A nice score from the Antique saw/machinery auction yesterday ..... A bench mounted chain vise for sharpening chains off the saw.
No good really for the square filing enthusiast, but hey 2 boxes for $5, there is prob $50 worth of G4 victa carby parts there as well = score!!View attachment 461405

Not a new idea then

There's a few nice things like that that have been knocked up by the USA guys here, homelite410 among others,

 

[VinceGU05]

it depends on what you meen by right to left

Right cutters and left cutters.

Not a new idea then

There's a few nice things like that that have been knocked up by the USA guys here, homelite410 among others,

Yeah I got one of his vise's. Great bit of gear.

 

[2strokenut]

nope it dose not matter at all

just like jimbo sead

i run my depths at 3 degrees

 

[postrip]

Noob question. How important is it for the cutters to be the same length right to left. ?

Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since

 

[2strokenut]

Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since

i never thought of it like that you have changed my view on the matter.

 

[VinceGU05]

Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since

Ok cool. Well I have always tried to make them the same length and rakers the same also.
I just had s chain here that the cutters were 3 mm different and was wondering if I really should make the cutters the same or not. The grinder is milling away now [emoji12]
Thanks Jason [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

[lumberjackau]

Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since

well said mate

 

[Bwildered]

Noob question. How important is it for the cutters to be the same length right to left. ?

not that critical if you use a progressive depth gauge like a filo plate, i went to a field day & we were told that a chain with a full length cutters on one side & near worn out cutters on the other side when sharpened with a filo plate will still cut straight, because each tooth is biting in the same amount.
thangst

 

[Jimbo209]

Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since

What is the consensus around,

about raker angle, is leave flat, rounded like stock or a down angle

 

[postrip]

What is the consensus around,

about raker angle, is leave flat, rounded like stock or a down angle

File the raker flat to your preferred depth, but definitely round off the leading edge, failure to do this will cause chatter, as the square edge will want to dig into the timber.

 

[Jimbo209]

Late 20's now with the freo doctor in and Bracewell just hit the first 6 for the innings

 

[Brewz]

gave the old work horse a birthday
View attachment 461409

Very nice.
Looks like an old Sportco? Hard to tell from the shadows. Perhaps a Stirling?

I have an old Aussie made Sportco 63B that I am doing up at the moment.
Great little rifle

 

[460cixy]

**** its all happening on here and around the world the region of peace is at it again the kitties

 

[Rudolf73]

**** its all happening on here and around the world the region of peace is at it again the kitties

Not to worry, Pauline is on to them.

 

[460cixy]

Some **** has to it will happen here yet.

 

[Jimbo209]

Are there odds on the start of ww3 yet

 

[bennn*e]

yeah your right there, all honda,s have low oil cut out on them

Not all of them do. I have seen a few fire fighting pumps that haven't not really the thing you don't want to have on one when often left unattended


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[Rudolf73]

Not all of them do. I have seen a few fire fighting pumps that haven't not really the thing you don't want to have on one when often left unattended


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They can save your bacon for sure. All engines should have them IMO.

 

[bennn*e]

Carlton do a chain and bar manual downloadable pdf too which is pretty informative. It's interesting though I have an old version of it explaining the progressive depth gauge height concept with a fop but also a later version saying to use a conventional depth gauge height tool, noobs and kick back caused litigation maybe?