Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Think IF the rackers are set well/evenly @ 6-7 Degrees all good.
Was it a rock nail pipe or other
the all aussie dribble thread!
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Was it a rock nail pipe or other
Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Not a new idea then
There's a few nice things like that that have been knocked up by the USA guys here, homelite410 among others,
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
Right cutters and left cutters.
Yeah I got one of his vise's. Great bit of gear.
2strokenut
One nut loose
nope it dose not matter at all
just like jimbo sead
i run my depths at 3 degrees
just like jimbo sead
i run my depths at 3 degrees
postrip
ArboristSite Operative
Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since
2strokenut
One nut loose
Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since
i never thought of it like that you have changed my view on the matter.
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
Ok cool. Well I have always tried to make them the same length and rakers the same also.Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since
I just had s chain here that the cutters were 3 mm different and was wondering if I really should make the cutters the same or not. The grinder is milling away now [emoji12]
Thanks Jason [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
lumberjackau
ArboristSite Guru
well said mateVince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since
not that critical if you use a progressive depth gauge like a filo plate, i went to a field day & we were told that a chain with a full length cutters on one side & near worn out cutters on the other side when sharpened with a filo plate will still cut straight, because each tooth is biting in the same amount.
thangst
Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Vince, if you want a smooth/fast cutting chain, it's very important.
As the newer the chain, the higher & wider the cutter.
Depth gauges are as equally important!
If you have each cutter on both sides as even as possible , along with the same top plate angle on each, & all the rakers even.... Each cutter will endure the same load, by taking the same amount of timber.
Because the cutters ramp down & narrow in at the tail, you can visualise that if 1 side is substantially longer,they will have more cutter going through the timber,hence giving you a chain that will run to 1 side, regardless how new your guide bar would be.
I learnt the basics out of the 40 page Oregon chain manual some 23yrs ago, been trying to better my techniques & end results ever since
What is the consensus around,
about raker angle, is leave flat, rounded like stock or a down angle
postrip
ArboristSite Operative
File the raker flat to your preferred depth, but definitely round off the leading edge, failure to do this will cause chatter, as the square edge will want to dig into the timber.
Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Very nice.
Looks like an old Sportco? Hard to tell from the shadows. Perhaps a Stirling?
I have an old Aussie made Sportco 63B that I am doing up at the moment.
Great little rifle
460cixy
Addicted to ArboristSite
**** its all happening on here and around the world the region of peace is at it again the kitties
Not to worry, Pauline is on to them.
460cixy
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some **** has to it will happen here yet.
Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Are there odds on the start of ww3 yet
bennn*e
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not all of them do. I have seen a few fire fighting pumps that haven't not really the thing you don't want to have on one when often left unattended
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They can save your bacon for sure. All engines should have them IMO.
bennn*e
Addicted to ArboristSite
Carlton do a chain and bar manual downloadable pdf too which is pretty informative. It's interesting though I have an old version of it explaining the progressive depth gauge height concept with a fop but also a later version saying to use a conventional depth gauge height tool, noobs and kick back caused litigation maybe?
