RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
OK guys, I'm working on another saw, this time a 575xp.
I got it in a box with the top end removed. The piston showed the classic evidence of some sort of bottom end failure. The combustion chamber has some pecker tracks on it too, but I don't think it is bad enough to pose a problem. Remarkably, the cylinder seems to have survived unscathed.
So today I separated the bottom end. I tapped on the clutch side crankshaft end with a deadblow hammer and after the second authoritative blow it popped right out easily. Almost too easily...
The rod bearing and crank itself seem fine after a careful inspection....
Problem #1: Both crank bearings stayed with the crank. The crank bearing cups in the cases don't show evidence the bearings have spun to any significant degree though. Flywheel side crank bearing feels bad, and the clutch side is better, but I would still not call it usable.
Problem #2: I discovered that someone has had this saw apart before. One of the crank stuffers got tweaked and you can see gouges from some sort of tool. My guess is that a crankcase separator was used and this damaged the stuffer. On that note, how the heck does one use the crankcase separator with a crank that has stuffers?????
So, I THINK I can get the crank bearings off by heating the inner bearing races and using a thin chisel to get them moving. Problem is, I'm sure this process will damage the crank stuffers.
So this brings me to a couple of questions,
#1: Obviously it will need at least one crank stuffer as one is already damaged. I plan on needing both due to whatever ends up being the process to remove the crank bearings from the crankshaft. But, what are thoughts on deleting the crank stuffers??? If it de-tunes this saw a little bit, maybe it will make it more likely to last longer??
#2: As to the apparent loose fitting bearing to crank case fit, how about using a Loctite product designed to tighten up fitment issues like this?? My father is a 30 year machinist, and I remember him telling me about a a sort of "Loctite Shim" that would take as much as .005" slack in what should be a press fit that has worn over several cycles of disassembly and reassembly or was not tight enough to begin with.
#3: My local Husky dealer rep/tech told me that one of the 575 bottom end issues was too much end to end pressure on the crank bearings. Their fix was to double up the crankcase gasket to relieve some of the pressure applied to the crank bearings.. Thoughts on this?
Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to contain as much detail as I can.
If I can work this the way I think I can, I'm thinking a new piston, crank bearings and seal, new crank stuffers (maybe??)and some Loctite shim should have this saw running again, and hopefully last a good long while like it should....
Any and all thoughts and advice is welcome.
I got it in a box with the top end removed. The piston showed the classic evidence of some sort of bottom end failure. The combustion chamber has some pecker tracks on it too, but I don't think it is bad enough to pose a problem. Remarkably, the cylinder seems to have survived unscathed.
So today I separated the bottom end. I tapped on the clutch side crankshaft end with a deadblow hammer and after the second authoritative blow it popped right out easily. Almost too easily...
The rod bearing and crank itself seem fine after a careful inspection....
Problem #1: Both crank bearings stayed with the crank. The crank bearing cups in the cases don't show evidence the bearings have spun to any significant degree though. Flywheel side crank bearing feels bad, and the clutch side is better, but I would still not call it usable.
Problem #2: I discovered that someone has had this saw apart before. One of the crank stuffers got tweaked and you can see gouges from some sort of tool. My guess is that a crankcase separator was used and this damaged the stuffer. On that note, how the heck does one use the crankcase separator with a crank that has stuffers?????
So, I THINK I can get the crank bearings off by heating the inner bearing races and using a thin chisel to get them moving. Problem is, I'm sure this process will damage the crank stuffers.
So this brings me to a couple of questions,
#1: Obviously it will need at least one crank stuffer as one is already damaged. I plan on needing both due to whatever ends up being the process to remove the crank bearings from the crankshaft. But, what are thoughts on deleting the crank stuffers??? If it de-tunes this saw a little bit, maybe it will make it more likely to last longer??
#2: As to the apparent loose fitting bearing to crank case fit, how about using a Loctite product designed to tighten up fitment issues like this?? My father is a 30 year machinist, and I remember him telling me about a a sort of "Loctite Shim" that would take as much as .005" slack in what should be a press fit that has worn over several cycles of disassembly and reassembly or was not tight enough to begin with.
#3: My local Husky dealer rep/tech told me that one of the 575 bottom end issues was too much end to end pressure on the crank bearings. Their fix was to double up the crankcase gasket to relieve some of the pressure applied to the crank bearings.. Thoughts on this?
Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to contain as much detail as I can.
If I can work this the way I think I can, I'm thinking a new piston, crank bearings and seal, new crank stuffers (maybe??)and some Loctite shim should have this saw running again, and hopefully last a good long while like it should....
Any and all thoughts and advice is welcome.