575xp on my bench. A few questions

[RIDE-RED 350r]

OK guys, I'm working on another saw, this time a 575xp.

I got it in a box with the top end removed. The piston showed the classic evidence of some sort of bottom end failure. The combustion chamber has some pecker tracks on it too, but I don't think it is bad enough to pose a problem. Remarkably, the cylinder seems to have survived unscathed.

So today I separated the bottom end. I tapped on the clutch side crankshaft end with a deadblow hammer and after the second authoritative blow it popped right out easily. Almost too easily...

The rod bearing and crank itself seem fine after a careful inspection....

Problem #1: Both crank bearings stayed with the crank. The crank bearing cups in the cases don't show evidence the bearings have spun to any significant degree though. Flywheel side crank bearing feels bad, and the clutch side is better, but I would still not call it usable.

Problem #2: I discovered that someone has had this saw apart before. One of the crank stuffers got tweaked and you can see gouges from some sort of tool. My guess is that a crankcase separator was used and this damaged the stuffer. On that note, how the heck does one use the crankcase separator with a crank that has stuffers?????

So, I THINK I can get the crank bearings off by heating the inner bearing races and using a thin chisel to get them moving. Problem is, I'm sure this process will damage the crank stuffers.

So this brings me to a couple of questions,

#1: Obviously it will need at least one crank stuffer as one is already damaged. I plan on needing both due to whatever ends up being the process to remove the crank bearings from the crankshaft. But, what are thoughts on deleting the crank stuffers??? If it de-tunes this saw a little bit, maybe it will make it more likely to last longer??

#2: As to the apparent loose fitting bearing to crank case fit, how about using a Loctite product designed to tighten up fitment issues like this?? My father is a 30 year machinist, and I remember him telling me about a a sort of "Loctite Shim" that would take as much as .005" slack in what should be a press fit that has worn over several cycles of disassembly and reassembly or was not tight enough to begin with.

#3: My local Husky dealer rep/tech told me that one of the 575 bottom end issues was too much end to end pressure on the crank bearings. Their fix was to double up the crankcase gasket to relieve some of the pressure applied to the crank bearings.. Thoughts on this?

Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to contain as much detail as I can.

If I can work this the way I think I can, I'm thinking a new piston, crank bearings and seal, new crank stuffers (maybe??)and some Loctite shim should have this saw running again, and hopefully last a good long while like it should....

Any and all thoughts and advice is welcome.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

OK, so I just talked to my pop the machinist, and he confirmed that Loctite makes a bearing retaining compound that can restore a proper pressed bearing fit up to .015". He also suggesting using a small prick punch and putting several stakes in the bearing housing might be a good idea.

So, I think I now have a course of action to prevent the crank bearings from spinning in the cases...I don't think they have yet, but they didn't require enough force to be removed from the cases to make me confident that they won't spin eventually.

Still searching around for ideas on deleting the stuffers. I ran across a post that suggested removing them would allow more oil to the bearings... Still digging.....

 

[superw6]

Buy a split bearing puller to pull them off the crank. I just replaced crank bearings in a 562xpg for a friend and that's what Husqvarna shop manual recommended if bearings stuck to crank.


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[cus_deluxe]

Buy a split bearing puller to pull them off the crank. I just replaced crank bearings in a 562xpg for a friend and that's what Husqvarna shop manual recommended if bearings stuck to crank.

guessing mr 350r can get a bearing off a crankshaft. 575s are known for having bearing-to-case fit issues. They dont get a lot of love here, but mine has treated me well. was my dads for 8 years or so, cut a bunch of firewood and starts every time.

 

[idiotwithasaw]

I've got a parts one coming in if you need one. I kind of have too many projects and not enough time

 

[Josh B.]

I'm working on this saw with the OP. Any experience or opinions on deleting the stuffers?

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

OK fellas... I got the bearings pulled from the crank without any damage to the crank. The first one wasn't too bad. I heated the inner race with a MAPP gas torch, not red hot but good n hot. I was able to get the bearing shifted with some careful and strategic use of a thin chisel. Once I got it moved about 1/4" I was able to use a 2-jawed puller to finish the job...

The second bearing was more of a challenge. See, I clamped on to one bearing to hold the assembly in a vice while working on the first bearing.. With the first bearing pulled, I now had nothing sacrificial to clamp in the vice to hold the whole assembly while I worked at unseating the second bearing.. I ended up getting the whizzy-wheel out and cutting the outer bearing race off then exposing the inner race. I went to work on the inner race and got enough of the material cut that when I popped it with a hammer and punch it split making removal a breeze. It should be noted that the second bearing I had to cut was the PTO side and I found that the bearing retainer had broken in several spots.

A bearing splitter would have been great if I had access to one.. But I was able to make do.

After all of this both crank stuffers are toast, naturally.

So, after a second close inspection of the rod bearing, I still feel that this crank assembly is good and serviceable. I slowly rotated the rod around the crank pin checking for signs of damage to the lower rod bearing. I did this with the rod kicked all the way to one side and then the other to get a look at both sides of the rod bearing...

Now here is where it stands. Crank is ready to be re-installed once I start gathering up parts...

I still remain unsure of whether or not to bother getting a set of stuffers.

I am leaning toward deleting them and and here is why:
-A saw with known bottom end issues may benefit from removing any obstruction between the intake charge carrying oil and the crank bearings.
-Also, possibly the slight de-tune of deleting the stuffers may be a good thing too???

I am ready to start ordering parts, the owner and I have settled on spending the money on the OEM piston for it.

Planning to run double crankcase gaskets as per my local Husky tech's recommendation.

Will use Loctite bearing retaining compound in an effort to ensure the crank bearings do not spin in the cases. May also put a few small dimples in the housings with a small center punch as added insurance too...

So, stuffers or no stuffers??? That is the question..

 

[cus_deluxe]

Id get new ones and get an unlimited coil for it. Do what ur talkin about with the loctite and stuff for the bearings and should be good to go.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I vote stuffers. Husky used them in there high performance saws for a reason. The 575 is a strong saw.

After the talk before I got to looking to see if I had a set of stuffers left and if I do I sure have not found them.

I think the Loctite is a good idea, can't hurt anything, but I have a question on how you plan to assemble the case halves.

Refresh my memory, did the bearing bore on the PTO side have a bearing stop ledge in it or was it bored straight through? I'm wanting to remember it was straight through.

I useally heat the case to set bearings and if that pto side is straight through bearing bore you will have to set the flywheel side in first. If you peen the bearing bore it will be very hard to heat the case enough to get that bearing to just slip in.

The bearing will probably need to be pressed into the case first then you will need some type of puller to pull the crank into the pto side bearing. Those bearings don't go on all that tight, you might get by with a proper dia tube to tap the crank into the bearing if you seat the bearing in the case first. You will have to be careful not to damage the seal if you do it that way though..

Which also brings into mind the question of if you press the bearing into the PTO side case and it is a straight through bore you will need to watch how far you set the bearing into the case..

Oh and if you plan on keeping doing this stuff, go buy a damn bearing separator before you screw something up that cost way more then a $5 bearing separator from Harbor Freight or someplace.. Just sayin,..,


I just used mine again yesterday takin bearings off a Partner R12 crank, it works well. If the edges are a little thick like mine was I just used a burr and ground the ends thinner so they will slip between the bearings an the counter weights.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well, I do have free access to a press at work. So pressing bearings won't be a problem. I recently did crank bearings and seals on a 394 successfully.

Looking at the cases just now, there is a shoulder for the bearings to butt up against on both sides, so bearing depth should be straight forward.

I plan to freeze the crankshaft over night and hope to be able to get the thing seated in its bearings without too much hassle or undue strain on the cases or crank. I should be able to rig it up in the press to facilitate that.

Point about the bearing splitter duly noted. I also have making or buying a case separator on the list as well.

As to a puller to pull the crank into the bearings, I'm open to ideas on that as I'm drawing a complete blank on that idea at the moment.

I am second guessing the idea of peening the bearing housings. I think Loctite bearing retainer should take care of the business of preventing bearing slippage.

All these projects have sort of been dropped in my lap so I'm kind of unprepared on the front of some of the tooling required. If I end up with much more of these types of jobs ill certainly be tooling up better.

 

[tickhound93]

Literally just got the bottom end of my 575 basket case together today. Same failure as yours- flywheel side bearing. I too destroyed both stuffers. I searched for 2 hours in town today to buy a bearing seperator- to no avail. It was a bearcat trying to get that flywhhel side bearing off the crank. But I got her did. Never heard about double gasketing, so it has a single gasket. I eliminated the stuffers. Don't know if that's the right answer, but I'm trying it. I also scored a farmertec piston for .99c off the bay a while back, so we will try that. Keep me posted how your build goes, I'll keep you posted. Mine should be running tomorrow.

 

[idiotwithasaw]

I kinda wish meteor made pistons for these. Does anyone know if I 576 piston will work or vise versa. Or is the transfer timing all different.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, I do have free access to a press at work. So pressing bearings won't be a problem. I recently did crank bearings and seals on a 394 successfully.

Looking at the cases just now, there is a shoulder for the bearings to butt up against on both sides, so bearing depth should be straight forward.

I plan to freeze the crankshaft over night and hope to be able to get the thing seated in its bearings without too much hassle or undue strain on the cases or crank. I should be able to rig it up in the press to facilitate that.

Point about the bearing splitter duly noted. I also have making or buying a case separator on the list as well.

As to a puller to pull the crank into the bearings, I'm open to ideas on that as I'm drawing a complete blank on that idea at the moment.

I am second guessing the idea of peening the bearing housings. I think Loctite bearing retainer should take care of the business of preventing bearing slippage.

All these projects have sort of been dropped in my lap so I'm kind of unprepared on the front of some of the tooling required. If I end up with much more of these types of jobs ill certainly be tooling up better.

Ok, thanks that's why I asked, I couldn't remember if it was bored all the way through or not. Must have been another one that came trough here that was.

If the peening is done correctly I think it wouldn't hurt. Use a very sharp center punch and use it lightly as the mag case is soft and do a complete pattern all the way around. Maybe two rows then locktite it and press the bearing in.

I really think there will be no bearing trouble down the line with that method. Heck I seen a guy fix a old Solo once that had spun a bearing in the case by cutting strips of brass shim stock, putting them in the case then press the bearing back into the case. Seems to be holding up ok..

Like I said, thats not the way I usually assemble them, I usually hold the crank in my hand and tap the bearings on to crank with a deep socket or piece of right size pipe.

I have never been that fond of freezing things and thats why I put the bearings on the crank first then heat the case with a propane torch to slip the crank and bearings into the case.

Since you will have to press the bearing in first and plan on freezing the crank, have everything ready and move quickly. Make sure you have something to tap on the bearing center race if needed to help slide the crank in.

Without a factory tool something would have to be made to work for pulling the crank into the bearings. I made one years ago on a troublesome one, a steel tube to push against the bearing inside race with a washer welded to the top. I made a adapter to screw on the end of the crank with male threads sticking through the washer on top the tube. I then used a nut to tighten down to pull the crank into the bearing. Probably not needed for this application.

I don't like to have to use case screws to pull them down the rest of the way and if you do be careful only tighten bit by bit and as close to directly across from each other as possible.

Here is one I just done yesterday, a Partner R12. Complete with homemade case gasket..

 

[cus_deluxe]

i know its a little different application but i used to work a lot on automatic transmissions and we would just use a flat screwdriver to lightly just scratch the surface where the bushings would seat, along with some red loctite and away you go. as mark said, dont get carried away with the punch. I would say 20 little scratches would be better than a handful of divots from a punch.

 

[Fishnuts2]

I have a 576 tore apart with the clutch side bearing ruined. The flywheel side bearing stayed on the crank and the stuffers make it more difficult to remove it. Dealer uses a split bearing puller. I'm checking HF for one today.

The discussion here is really helpful.

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[idiotwithasaw]

This is going in the brain bank for any future projects.

 

[BGE541]

Yes 576 cyl and piston will work. I have a farmtech one if need be.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes 576 cyl and piston will work. I have a farmtech one if need be.

Have you actually used one of those Farmertech P/C on these?

 

[BGE541]

Have you actually used one of those Farmertech P/C on these?

Yes I rebuilt and ported a 575XP. They work just fine as long as the cyl cleans up nice.

 

[Modifiedmark]

What do you mean? You have to clean up the new AM cylinder? Or are you just cleaning the OEM cyl and using the Farmertech piston?