Husqvarna 372 bar length

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werewolf

werewolf

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Picked up my dream saw and modded the muffler and left cyl gasket off, did a complete rebuild. Went cutting today and after about 20 cuts my back started aching, it has a 20" bar, so I picked up my 61 with a 20" bar and tried it, back better, picked up my 034 with. 18" on it and even better, cut hours no problem, so I'm 5'9 and older so is the bar length the problem or the power head weight? My old 034 is a runner and the 372 couldn't stay up with a 24", maybe a 20"?
 
werewolf

werewolf

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Picked up my dream saw and modded the muffler and left cyl gasket off, did a complete rebuild. Went cutting today and after about 20 cuts my back started aching, it has a 20" bar, so I picked up my 61 with a 20" bar and tried it, back better, picked up my 034 with. 18" on it and even better, cut hours no problem, so I'm 5'9 and older so is the bar length the problem or the power head weight? My old 034 is a runner and the 372 couldn't stay up with a 24", maybe a 20"?
Sorry that 372 has a 24"
 
Shagbark

Shagbark

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Overall weight is the problem. Use the smallest saw that will get the job done efficiently. Efficiency includes you. Keep the 372 with the 24" bar for when it is the most efficient tool for the job. I have had to do the same as horsing the 385 around isn't as much fun as it used to be.
 
werewolf

werewolf

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Never heard of one, I'll google it
Ok I've seen them but didn't know what they were called, never used one. Typically we just drag a old locust out of the woods and cut it up where it lays, I'm stocked this winter so I'm just dropping trees and cutting where they lays, 90% black locust some hedge. Curious if you drop limbs the use the Jack towards the ends?
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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the problem is likely body positioning although it's strange it goes away with a 61. it isn't that much lighter. i think your just soft. force yourself to run it. you'll harden up. i run a 390xp with a 33" bar 6 hours a day. lower back took a thrashing in the beginning but now i hardly feel it. end of day and i feel like i could work 3 more hours. all about core stength, body positioning, and supporting saw weight anywhere beside the lower back. sometime you gotta though.
 
werewolf

werewolf

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the problem is likely body positioning although it's strange it goes away with a 61. it isn't that much lighter. i think your just soft. force yourself to run it. you'll harden up. i run a 390xp with a 33" bar 6 hours a day. lower back took a thrashing in the beginning but now i hardly feel it. end of day and i feel like i could work 3 more hours. all about core stength, body positioning, and supporting saw weight anywhere beside the lower back. sometime you gotta though.
Yeah I cut about 6 cords a year for firewood for two homes and never had issues, did pull a muscle in a truck incident this summer so even though I feel fine I do probably need to build up my core, I'm a 15yr ago ex gym rat so I know what I NEED to do, just older age the joints aren't the same!
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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Yeah I cut about 6 cords a year for firewood for two homes and never had issues, did pull a muscle in a truck incident this summer so even though I feel fine I do probably need to build up my core, I'm a 15yr ago ex gym rat so I know what I NEED to do, just older age the joints aren't the same!

lol what you NEED to do is run that saw. ain't nothing in a gym gonna help. repetitive lifting of weight will build muscle, constant support will harden them. a big muscle means nothing if it's flabby and no cardiovascular strength to support it. no disrespect, just saying all you need to do is run the saw. your back pain should go away within a few days. i guess it's kinda hard to stay in shape for it only cutting 6 cords a year though.
 
CR888

CR888

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I kinda agree with shane, actually using the saw for periods will strengthen and condition all the exact things that will make it easier. l know myself when I started using a pole saw & extended articulated hedge trimmer, l was spent after 5-15mins. After plenty of forced practice (work), I now can go a tank+ no problem.
 
werewolf

werewolf

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Everything I cut I load by hand in my truck, I can dead lift 425lbs but after cutting for hours then loading awhile wood gets heavy, so I try to stay away from 18"> wood, I really don't need a longer bar.
 
Ferguson system

Ferguson system

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I'm using a 16" bar on my Jonsered 2172 (husky 372 x-torq) with a 8 pin sprocket. I also have a 24" bar that I use for big trees and milling. The 2172 with the 16" is actually not bad for limbing, once you learn how to support the saw on the log and lower body.
 
werewolf

werewolf

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My 034 hybrid with a 18" bar is my go too saw, it does 90% of what I need. The 61 I just modded I really like also, it's simple design. I'll keep the 372 for the occasion big wood and keep the 20" bar on it for playing with, it does rip with a 20! Hate to say I miss my old 350 though, with the 18" bar it ripped through trees for 15yrs with no issues.
 
GLOCKED

GLOCKED

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I have a 28" Husqvarna Tech-Lite bar with skip tooth chain. I'm 6' and with this bar I can stand up straight and cut with just missing the ground. I try to avoid bending over. Really wish they still made the Tech-lite bars!
 
werewolf

werewolf

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Never used one, just finished a 48" white oak that was down in a field so my 372 with my 24" bar was used, compared it since modded to my stihl 076 with a 24" bar and although a little torquier my 372 was the same in timed cuts just much lighter. 24" is ok for low stuff for me, almost stand straight up also, I'll look up those bars though
 
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