Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?

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It's strange..... I just went and pulled the orange 330 out. Put some mix in the tank and got it fired up. It idled at about 5000+ rpm. :dizzy: I took the recoil off..this has been taken off by one or more monkeys in it's past from looking at the screw heads. Pulled the tank vent, disassembled it and found everything to be good. Reassembled and reinstalled. Next I cleaned around the carb and blew all the crud off with some carb cleaner before pulling it. This one still had the limiters in it and appeared to have a fresh carb kit in it. I don't remember putting one in it, but I might have. Idle screw appeared to be turned much farther in than I would have expected, but I don't have much experience with these either. I backed it off and pulled the limiter caps. Low mix screw was out about 2.5 turns, which seemed about right. So I put everything back together and tried again.

Idle was still 5k+. Pulled the low speed screw and shot some carb cleaner through the hole. That seemed to help, but not much. Low speed screw is now probably close to 4 turns out and it idles correctly. Played with the high speed needle a bit and it seems to be running fine now. That low speed screw setting worries me a little. Seems like it's much farther out than it should be. Still needs a clutch cover and B/C.
A lot of the newer Echo saws end up at 3 1/2 turns out or so on the low, you might try turning in the low adjuster a little and the idle speed adjuster out a little to slow it back down. Steve
 
I'm going to do pressure/vac test before I run either of them again. Doesn't seem quite right, especially with the needle only being ~2.5 turns out when I pulled the cap.
 
Yes, I know. That just seems like a lot. Looks like all I need to make is an exhaust block off. I have a carb block off with pressure port I made for another saw that fits. I can probably knock it out on lunch one day this week. I didn't try, but the rubber stihl exhaust strip might seal it tool.
 
Had an hour to spare today so the new short block is in--wish, wish, wish I had taken more pictures--in the sequence of tear down! Struggled with the rubber intake manifold--then I finally remembered the metal ring had to come out, then the rubber pulls through fairly easy. Luckily I did have pics of top handle/throttle/choke lever--it's now reassembled. Will update more as progress is made!image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Hey can you take a couple pics of the old jug for us looking down the bore
Hey bikemike, here are the pictures of the old cylinder/jug:
 

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Got the exhaust plate made this evening after work. Probably be a day or two before I get time to do a pressure/vac test.
 
Wow that got hot. Bet that wasn't nothing new for homeowners warranty replacement
Remember from my 1st post that this saw had straight gas in the tank when it found its way to my house!! However, I am already glad that the adj. caps no longer have a home on my 271T.

Really getting excited to get the 330 running--think it's more the thrill of the project more than anything else! I know me, I'll love this saw--then go looking for another project--be it chainsaw or string trimmer!!
 
Had an hour to spare today so the new short block is in--wish, wish, wish I had taken more pictures--in the sequence of tear down! Struggled with the rubber intake manifold--then I finally remembered the metal ring had to come out, then the rubber pulls through fairly easy. Luckily I did have pics of top handle/throttle/choke lever--it's now reassembled. Will update more as progress is made!View attachment 479722View attachment 479723View attachment 479725

thanks for the fotos. looks like you don't actually need to remove the flywheel. an easy way to pull a rubber boot thru a smaller opening is with a piece of string tied in a slip knot.
 
I've owned a 330T for a few months now and kinda like it for small trimming jobs, nice and lightweight, easy to use..not as powerful as a Stihl or my Dolmar top handle but it has it's place..

are you sure that the dolmar is more powerful? looks to me like it's nothing but a german version of the echo 3400, with reed valve induction. those were good saws but the newer piston ported 330/360's are a lot more powerful. if you think your echo isn't performing you may need to tune it. check the video referenced earlier in this thread and you will see a 330 and a 360 outperforming a stihl 020t. check out some of bikemike's vids too.
 
are you sure that the dolmar is more powerful? looks to me like it's nothing but a german version of the echo 3400, with reed valve induction. those were good saws but the newer piston ported 330/360's are a lot more powerful. if you think your echo isn't performing you may need to tune it. check the video referenced earlier in this thread and you will see a 330 and a 360 outperforming a stihl 020t. check out some of bikemike's vids too.
I am glad you brought that up cause I'm tired of telling ppl that a good tuned echo isn't slow like they think of them.
 
great price! you might want to inspect the intake boot before you start making up plates. also, the carbs could be mucked up with ethanol residue (my guess). or a metering lever might be out of adjustment. it would be great if you could find a known good carb (maybe $15 on ebay). I've gotten to the point where i usually replace the carb rather than rebuilding. the cost is about the same and you don't know who's wrenched on or otherwise abused the old ones. there are a lot of variables here. keep looking. you'll nail it down. good luck with these saws, keep us posted on how it goes.
Do you have a old 330 360 carb laying around you can part with for the price of shipping. I'd like to se if the throttle and choke shaft will fit in the wt540 from a husky 36cc
 
Do you have a old 330 360 carb laying around you can part with for the price of shipping. I'd like to se if the throttle and choke shaft will fit in the wt540 from a husky 36cc

sorry bikemike, no spares here. the echos never break. you could probably get one for $15 on ebay. i do that often, especially with the stihls that find their way to may shop. it usually turns out to be cheaper that a rebuild and a safer bet.
 
thanks for the fotos. looks like you don't actually need to remove the flywheel. an easy way to pull a rubber boot thru a smaller opening is with a piece of string tied in a slip knot.
Good idea--why didn't I think of that!!??
 
Good idea--why didn't I think of that!!??

yeah, i just got tired of rebuilding carbs and they still wouldn't work right. you can't get all the ethanol schmutz out of 'em. also, by the time i get a saw in it has usually been wrenched on by someone who doesn't know what he's doing and the carburetor is damaged.
 

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