the all aussie dribble thread!

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Yeah, they're heavy-ish, clamshells, non-pro, etc, but for some reason I still really like using my 310. Can't put my finger on why, exactly. Good thing about being a chainsaw repair newbie like me is it is the first and only one I have really worked on, so it being a clambshell means not much without a frame of reference. It is what it is to repair and that seemed fine to me.

A mate has one I'm not a huge fan but it seems bloody tough with the abuse he gives it
 
A mate has one I'm not a huge fan but it seems bloody tough with the abuse he gives it
That saw has probably made the most return on investment out of all my saws (not that I own many). Even when I straight gassed it, it didn't die, just got a bit harder to start and forced me to really appreciate sharp chains. But it sat on the shelf for what seems like years until I found the time to work on it this xmas. It now rides in the back of the ute with the other saws and with a big grin on its face. It's going to eat a heap of wood soon when I start bucking up all these gums on this current job for firewood, and we'll see how well the farmertec gear holds up. I didn't use their rings, but did use the circlips, so I guess time will tell.

On the subject of swinging red gums I asked about earlier, yeah I do rope them but there are still times when it's a heavy and big leaner, will need more weight than my tractor and winch has to offer, and if I use blocks for mechanical advantage then I run into problems keeping my tractor out of the way because 70m of cable just isn't enough. Also, whilst I understand the need to get the lines up high for better leverage, there are times I just don't know if the high stuff is going to break before it does its job and I'd rather not find out the hard way. I guess am gonna need some longer, grunty rope. Seem to have more luck felling the younger/smaller red gums off their lean - I guess a bit more sap wood (relative to diameter and forces) that seems to hold on better than the heart wood. Had to jump one largish tree over the fence rather than risk it - just too much weight working against me and not enough cable/rope to nearest anchor point.
 
Yeah, they're heavy-ish, clamshells, non-pro, etc, but for some reason I still really like using my 310. Can't put my finger on why, exactly. Good thing about being a chainsaw repair newbie like me is it is the first and only one I have really worked on, so it being a clamshell means not much without a frame of reference. It is what it is to repair and that seemed fine to me.

Couldnt have said it better myself, ive got 3 of these saws now, my first 2 have paid for themselves many times over in firewood and handle heavy use, like any saw, keep the fuel fresh the filter clean and chain sharp etc and they are good back.
 
That saw has probably made the most return on investment out of all my saws (not that I own many). Even when I straight gassed it, it didn't die, just got a bit harder to start and forced me to really appreciate sharp chains. But it sat on the shelf for what seems like years until I found the time to work on it this xmas. It now rides in the back of the ute with the other saws and with a big grin on its face. It's going to eat a heap of wood soon when I start bucking up all these gums on this current job for firewood, and we'll see how well the farmertec gear holds up. I didn't use their rings, but did use the circlips, so I guess time will tell.

On the subject of swinging red gums I asked about earlier, yeah I do rope them but there are still times when it's a heavy and big leaner, will need more weight than my tractor and winch has to offer, and if I use blocks for mechanical advantage then I run into problems keeping my tractor out of the way because 70m of cable just isn't enough. Also, whilst I understand the need to get the lines up high for better leverage, there are times I just don't know if the high stuff is going to break before it does its job and I'd rather not find out the hard way. I guess am gonna need some longer, grunty rope. Seem to have more luck felling the younger/smaller red gums off their lean - I guess a bit more sap wood (relative to diameter and forces) that seems to hold on better than the heart wood. Had to jump one largish tree over the fence rather than risk it - just too much weight working against me and not enough cable/rope to nearest anchor point.
just fall it on the fence and fix the fence afterwards. and in doing so knowing yr luck, trying to drop it on the fence the tree will do a pirouette and fall away from the said fence :numberone:
 
About 40 degrees off its lean and only just getting it back over the fence without the upper branches smashing it. Doesn't look like much holding wood in this angle but was more than looks but less than I'd like. I just couldn't easily get enough persuasive grrrr into it to get it to commit. Double stacked the yellow wedges. Couldn't get a rope on it - but could have if had a very long, grunty rope though. In hindsight, should have brought the 10t bottle jack with me.

In the end, I gave it all I could and was then a passenger as it creaked and internally ruptured before finally coming over. Was worried it was going to chair. Does red gum chair?

Next time I find a no-risk red gum that I can experiment on, I'll try seriously blocking the face and seeing if that helps the fibres to not break so early. Would be great to find a way of not having to rig them.

IMG_20160123_115221077[1].jpg
 
About 40 degrees off its lean and only just getting it back over the fence without the upper branches smashing it. Doesn't look like much holding wood in this angle but was more than looks but less than I'd like. I just couldn't get enough persuasive grrrr into it to get it to commit. Double stacked the yellow wedges. Couldn't get a rope on it - but could have if had a very long, grunty rope though. In hindsight, should have brought the 10t bottle jack with me.

In the end, I gave it all I could and was then a passenger as it creaked and internally ruptured before finally coming over. Was worried it was going to chair. Does red gum chair?

Next time I find a no-risk red gum that I can experiment on, I'll try seriously blocking the face and seeing if that helps the fibres to not break so early. Would be great to find a way of not having to rig them.

View attachment 481643

Good job...

The old dead ones (dried and grey) tend to chair more than I'd like......so I always lash them...mostly chairing is a result of the structure of the tree I find rather than a particular euc variety eg.. presence of limbs or forks and their proximity to the cut but more so in the dead ones with splitting, insect damage and rot.....
 
Give me a year of pumping weights and popping steroids and I'll be just about ready for an Aussie boot camp, making cups of tea and stacking lumber for Neil. Then I might be able to pick up a few gems of wisdom from them that have been there done that and survived. I'm sure he has forgotten more about felling gums than I will ever know.
 

I have got the bearing seated into the hub properly on the car......

Now to get the axle into it....this will be easier regarding the amount of pressure (based on removal) but logistically more difficult as I have to apply pressure from both sides...lucky I have lots of big arse G clamps
 
just fall it on the fence and fix the fence afterwards. and in doing so knowing yr luck, trying to drop it on the fence the tree will do a pirouette and fall away from the said fence :numberone:
If even one of these gums tried but didn't make it back over the fence, they'd take out at least three posts, given the angle of the dangle. Perhaps just pull the staples, drop the fence, pin it to the ground, try and get the trees to land between posts, and replace whatever batons break.

Think I'll keep the bottle jack in the ute permanently from now on.
 
Good job...

The old dead ones (dried and grey) tend to chair more than I'd like......so I always lash them...mostly chairing is a result of the structure of the tree I find rather than a particular euc variety eg.. presence of limbs or forks and their proximity to the cut but more so in the dead ones with splitting, insect damage and rot.....
Tks. It was rather sketchy b/c the gums are very close together and there wasn't anywhere else I could stand and drive the wedges in but in the firing line. Had visions of bumble bee meets windscreen.
 
I have got the bearing seated into the hub properly on the car......

Now to get the axle into it....this will be easier regarding the amount of pressure (based on removal) but logistically more difficult as I have to apply pressure from both sides...lucky I have lots of big arse G clamps

sound like your doing a dam good job with wat you got :rock:
 
is one word for it. Stoopid might be another. How about underpaid? Trouble with knowing just enough to know how little I really know, is so much of the work I do is freaky to me (all the easy trees on farms are long gone), and freaky is very draining. Of the energy levels if not also the bank account.
 
is one word for it. Stoopid might be another. How about underpaid? Trouble with knowing just enough to know how little I really know, is so much of the work I do is freaky (all the easy trees on farms are long gone), and freaky is very draining. Of the energy levels if not also the bank account.

When I get really nervous, and my legs start to shake, I walk away and reassess what I am doing. It's an inbuilt survival mechanism. And when I'm in the tree I really have no choice.
 
can you use a rachet strap

Lol......

No. Grabbing some decent size steel bar tomorrow which should let me tighten it up to clamp together with spring in the steel. I need to be able to get it to seat with the splines lined up and hold together when I smash the Fark out of it with the 4lb hammer....
 
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