Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

You don't see that every day with ebay sellers... That bag wouldn't happen to have the rear handle av rubber in it would it. A friend of mine dropped off his dad's saw to "fix" and it's missing a bunch of stuff, that rear mount being one of them. Tried to explain it's only a 520, and might not be worth messing with.....just got a blank stare.

I've actually had very good luck with ebayers......this same thing has happened a number of times. Once I bid and won a 90 that was real rough.....but it had the bits I needed for a project....think I paid $26 and $15 shipping....before it even got here the seller contacted me and apologized for the pitiful condition of the saw and said if I was unhappy he would refund some of the $$$....told him I only needed certain parts and would probably be OK....few days after it arrived he got in touch again say he really felt bad about the saw.....now...this saw had sat under a drier vent I would say as it was full of dryer lint/fuzz and stunk of Fabreeze....so I told him I was really OK but of course it could have been better...and if he wanted to refund $5 or $10 I wouldn't mind.....he said how sorry he was again and promptly cedited my paypal account the full amount...shipping and all!! I know this isn't the way it can go but I have never had a problem with any purchases or sellers that I contacted with an issue.....dunno....maybe it's the way I word things in the beginning....I always start out polite, state my issue and don't point fingers....seems most folks respond to this better than screeching at them right out of the gate.

No..... this bag of stuff had the top handle AV mount over the clutch cover.....fits a lot of those 4XX and 5XX saws.....everything else was just nuts and bolts.....

 

[taplinhill]

You don't see that every day with ebay sellers... That bag wouldn't happen to have the rear handle av rubber in it would it. A friend of mine dropped off his dad's saw to "fix" and it's missing a bunch of stuff, that rear mount being one of them. Tried to explain it's only a 520, and might not be worth messing with.....just got a blank stare.

I got the "blank stare" recently over a 2238. It wasn't running right and it had that weird spring starter so it's hard to get a feel of the compression. So I pulled the muffler and the piston looked pretty bad. I was actually surprised it ran at all. "What do you mean it's not worth fixing?"

The 520 is an odd saw. I've known people who love them and some that won't buy another Jonsered to this day because of them. I just try to ignore them

 

[WoodDean]

Getting the 52 back together after tending the breaker points. The setting of the timing seems to be a mystery wrapped in an enigma, except for a dated document concerning the Raket 80.
So, I thought I'd post my method here so this forum can supply me with feedback.

Problem number 1 is that I don't have an indicator dial 9139 + retainer 9138 and 9138-3 as stated in the Raket instructions.
To take the place of this tool, it occurred to me that I could use the tail stock or depth gauge of my calipers.

1. I rotate the saw to TDC by looking at the piston through the spark plug hole.
2. I set the point gap per the saw specifications. The 52 is between 3 - 4mm or .12 to .16 inches according to acres' site.
3. I rotate the crank counter clockwise about half a turn closing the points.
4. I pry the points open and place a piece of paper between the points.
5. I continue to rotate the crank counter clockwise and with slight pressure on the paper, I stop rotating the crank when the paper just releases.
This less than scientific method leaves much to interpretation as to what the proper amount of pull pressure to place on the paper. To me it appears as though the paper releases somewhere around .002 to .0025 inches.
6. I then rest the tail of the caliper vertically on top of the jug and extend the depth gauge into the spark plug hole. Once the gauge hits the piston I zero the caliper.

7. I then turn the crank to TDC and use the caliper depth gauge to measure the piston travel. In this case it measured 5/64th, acres' site states 2mm.

 

[WoodDean]

Do that because if this saw has sat any length of time there is most likely oxidization on the contact surfaces causing very high resistance in the points....(bad inconsistent spark) even though they may look to be in good condition. Don't get ahead of yourself in the diagnostics....eliminate the basics first.....good connections and good clean properly gapped points...make sure everything you can fix for free is in good order...if it is then look further...don't over look disconnecting the kill switch too.....these are all potential problem areas......my guess is points.....but that is just a guess....take the guess work out of it....

Thank you forum members!!!!! The 52 lives!!!!

Got everything back together this morning. It popped on the 3 pull and took off on the 5th.
Runs a bit rough but that's expected out of the gate. I'll continue adjusting it over the next weeks to smooth everything out and it should be fine.

Dressing the points made all the difference. Lesson learned.
Cheers.

 

[Cantdog]

Excellent Dean...congrats!! My new-to-me 490 is "out for delivery" today.....unfortunately work is taking me 30-40 miles east of here today so I won't be able to accept it from the mail lady the instant it arrives.....got a good feeling on this one.....hope I'm right....

 

[cambl]

Fellow Jonsered fans: I have a very low hour 630 that I'm thinking of putting on the Tradin post or possibly ebay but want to see if any of you have interest first. It's been sitting on my display shelf forever and I last started it about 4 years ago.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Getting the 52 back together after tending the breaker points. The setting of the timing seems to be a mystery wrapped in an enigma, except for a dated document concerning the Raket 80.
So, I thought I'd post my method here so this forum can supply me with feedback.

Problem number 1 is that I don't have an indicator dial 9139 + retainer 9138 and 9138-3 as stated in the Raket instructions.
To take the place of this tool, it occurred to me that I could use the tail stock or depth gauge of my calipers.

1. I rotate the saw to TDC by looking at the piston through the spark plug hole.
2. I set the point gap per the saw specifications. The 52 is between 3 - 4mm or .12 to .16 inches according to acres' site.
3. I rotate the crank counter clockwise about half a turn closing the points.
4. I pry the points open and place a piece of paper between the points.
5. I continue to rotate the crank counter clockwise and with slight pressure on the paper, I stop rotating the crank when the paper just releases.
This less than scientific method leaves much to interpretation as to what the proper amount of pull pressure to place on the paper. To me it appears as though the paper releases somewhere around .002 to .0025 inches.
6. I then rest the tail of the caliper vertically on top of the jug and extend the depth gauge into the spark plug hole. Once the gauge hits the piston I zero the caliper.
View attachment 493738 View attachment 493740
7. I then turn the crank to TDC and use the caliper depth gauge to measure the piston travel. In this case it measured 5/64th, acres' site states 2mm.

View attachment 493742

Dean, I don't think it's super critical and getting close is probably fine. I used a TDC tool that I have for my large engines and roughly the same procedure as you did. A spark plug hole dial indicator would be better. Recently I bought a flywheel degree wheel, but haven't tried that yet because I have to drill out a precise hole to match the shaft. Agreed, the release of the paper is open to interpretation and because that method is so un-precise, I just believe the setting to not be that critical...but more ballpark.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Dean, I don't think it's super critical and getting close is probably fine. I used a TDC tool that I have for my large engines and roughly the same procedure as you did. A spark plug hole dial indicator would be better. Recently I bought a flywheel degree wheel, but haven't tried that yet because I have to drill out a precise hole to match the shaft. Agreed, the release of the paper is open to interpretation and because that method is so un-precise, I just believe the setting to not be that critical...but more ballpark.

Kevin

Thanks Kev, ballpark is exactly what I'm trying to determine to eliminate any issues. My other method involved a piece of solder stuck inside the hole, I think this is an improvement and gets me closer to the factory setting. Actually I took some readings while experimenting with my method. Turns out theres a big difference in timing as you rotate the points plate from one extreme to the other.

Update: Just stuck a 20" bar on it with a new 3/8 chain and cut up the tops of an oak that was down behind the house. WOW! Made a couple carb adjustments along the way and it runs great.

 

[WoodDean]

Fellow Jonsered fans: I have a very low hour 630 that I'm thinking of putting on the Tradin post or possibly ebay but want to see if any of you have interest first. It's been sitting on my display shelf forever and I last started it about 4 years ago.

View attachment 493955

View attachment 493956

WOW! that saw looks out-of-the-box new.

 

[Cantdog]

Nice looking early 630......glad your 52 is running great too Dean.....now my newest.....490 Jonsereds...1983....found the chain adjuster screw was bent when I tried to put a B&C on.....hammered that flat...then ran a thread chaser down the length.....good to go.......installed a half tank of gas....picked the saw up and drizzled gas all over the floor????? Ok puled the air filter cover.....fuel line rotted completely off the nipple......hauled the line up enough so that it was from inside the tank and not real beat ...cut it off and slipped it on the barb...took it outside and yanked on it 4 times.....running....idling smooth...accelerating to WOT perfect...four stroking.....return to idle fine...Woot Woot!!! Has a few minor needs but just what my gut told me on this one......gotta luck out once in a while!!!

 

[beavis331]

Fellow Jonsered fans: I have a very low hour 630 that I'm thinking of putting on the Tradin post or possibly ebay but want to see if any of you have interest first. It's been sitting on my display shelf forever and I last started it about 4 years ago.

View attachment 493955

View attachment 493956

Wow! Purdy saw! I wouldn't want to use it!

 

[WoodDean]

Nice looking early 630......glad your 52 is running great too Dean.....now my newest.....490 Jonsereds...1983....found the chain adjuster screw was bent when I tried to put a B&C on.....hammered that flat...then ran a thread chaser down the length.....good to go.......installed a half tank of gas....picked the saw up and drizzled gas all over the floor????? Ok puled the air filter cover.....fuel line rotted completely off the nipple......hauled the line up enough so that it was from inside the tank and not real beat ...cut it off and slipped it on the barb...took it outside and yanked on it 4 times.....running....idling smooth...accelerating to WOT perfect...four stroking.....return to idle fine...Woot Woot!!! Has a few minor needs but just what my gut told me on this one......gotta luck out once in a while!!!

NICE!!! You have a good eye for finding the diamonds in the ruff. Interesting piece to add to your herd.

 

[Cantdog]

Wow! Purdy saw! I wouldn't want to use it!

Apparently no one else has either........

 

[beavis331]

Apparently no one else has either........

Meant to say that it's so nice I would be afraid to ding it all up if I used it.

 

[Cantdog]

Meant to say that it's so nice I would be afraid to ding it all up if I used it.

That's what I meant too......

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks Kev, ballpark is exactly what I'm trying to determine to eliminate any issues. My other method involved a piece of solder stuck inside the hole, I think this is an improvement and gets me closer to the factory setting. Actually I took some readings while experimenting with my method. Turns out theres a big difference in timing as you rotate the points plate from one extreme to the other.

Update: Just stuck a 20" bar on it with a new 3/8 chain and cut up the tops of an oak that was down behind the house. WOW! Made a couple carb adjustments along the way and it runs great.

View attachment 493987

View attachment 493988

That's why we freak when some jackass PO moves the points plate outa kilter on the J'reds with no index marks....and then sells the saw.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

That's why we freak when some jackass PO moves the points plate outa kilter on the J'reds with no index marks....and then sells the saw.

Kevin

Funny thing is...(and a good thing) on the 49sp they simply time to full advance....no voodoo....measuring or anything.....just crank the points plate clockwise to the stop and tighten the screws.....

Having the points gap set properly has as much to do with actual timing as anything.......I always set mine at 0.016" as the cam follower on the points will wear in and the gap will slowly become less over time....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well, got the $29, 52. Kinda cute little squirt....he wasn't kidding the crank bearing are "rough". Rough as in, let-me-pour-sand-in-there-while-you-pull-on-the-recoil, rough....lol. No compression to speak of. Although if it's the original clutch cover, the chain never jumped off the bar. Lots of good parts here...plastic hand guard if you yearn for those kinda things, is 100% intact. Might even have a good crank. Will pull the slug & jug at some point. Not sure of all the crossover parts yet.

Kevin

 

[johnnylabguy]

Hi guys. Boy am I sad. Went for a quick firewood hit with my 9 year old today and took one saw and one only. My trusty Jred 630. It's been top dog of my arsenal this year. Big enough or small enough for whatever I'm cutting with only a 16" bar to boot! So I'm 30 minutes into filling up my gator with some 15" red oak rounds when I notice this:

My bar oil cap is long gone! I promised the boy a $5 bill if we could find it but I was cutting in swampy oak top bramble
and a needle in the proverbial haystack would have been easier. So I ask my Jred friends here...where do I find this cap for a 1983 jonsereds 630? I need my old trusty back! Thanks for any help! And eBay was a bust earlier btw

 

[Cantdog]

52 is a nice saw.....built just like a mini 621 or 80....heavy duty all the way. Closed port, double ring, high crown piston....points ign and coil is the same as the 621 & 80/90 and the 111s.....the 521E uses the same P&C/carb/muffler......if it isn't scored it might be worth throwing a set of seals and bearings and new rings and get 'er going...will run an 18-20" bar in .325 pretty good....

Man....I went looking for a new recoil cover sticker for the 490 tonight at the shop.....knew I had one but it wasn't in orderly my "Jonsereds" boxes with the rest of the NOS stickers......I went through 4 fairly large boxes of misc. NOS Jonsereds parts......bought in lots....have some really off the wall stuff.....some of it I don't even know what it is....found like six 910E intake elbows.....eight 621 air filter covers....a handfuls of throttle linkages another handful of triggers ....piles of recoil pulleys that fit god knows what.......did finally find the sticker I wanted in the bottom of box #4....all by itself.....sometimes I amaze myself with the **** I acquire.....I ain't right....