Yep Tim has got it right.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Yep Tim has got it right.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Since I have never done the advance timing thing , will it make the engine run temp higher advancing it? What is the thumb rule on how much is to much? Im trying to sponge all this good info up .
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Steve
Steve
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got something I’ve never seen before, it’s a red craftsman 3.7 that is thin ring and came with powersharp. I have another 3.7 that is a thin ring but not with power sharp. The cylinder and piston look good but it probably could use rings. I assume the rings from parts tree are fine.
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Just remember that too much advance will result i starter kick back and those starter pulleys are getting hard to find.
I did advance one 3400 a wee bit and it started kicking back hard. I put it back to stock.
It shouldn't unless it's far enough advanced to cause detonation. I for one can't hear if it is so be careful. I think some saws benefit greatly from some advance and others do not. I pushed it some on a Stihl 036 nd it perked it up as did the muffler mod. I don't see much if any difference in muffler mods on a 3400. The older saws really don't have very restricted mufflers. The 036 did. When noise regs came it, many of the mufflers were choked quite a bit.
Thee only way to check is to time the cuts with video. Same saw, bar, chain, wood and day. I would say if you did a muffler mod and didn't have to retune richer, it didn't add anything. Others may disagree.
Like most of you, I like to fiddle as well.
I've had 3 versions of that saw.I got something I’ve never seen before, it’s a red craftsman 3.7 that is thin ring and came with powersharp. I have another 3.7 that is a thin ring but not with power sharp. The cylinder and piston look good but it probably could use rings. I assume the rings from parts tree are fine.
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First is the thin ring 3.7 w/o powersharp (kept), then found a thick ring 3.7 with power sharp (gave to cousin), finally a gray/black saw thick ring no powersharp.
A lot of the red black 3.7 saws are 3700s (without the slotted cover and hd starter pawl) which are more desirable, generally have better compression and noticeable performance over the 3800 based saws with thick rings and chrome cylinders. That said I've had a lot of 3400 and3800 saws and I can honestly say I have never seen one with a blown piston. And they've all run pretty good too. The powersharp is easy to remove at least.
Like Tim said if you start getting kick back then it probably is to far.
If you have a degree wheel then use that to advance it by 2 or 3 degrees.
I do have a couple of saws that have a little kick back and have left them that way. Where it really pays off is at the top end of the RPM range.
When it comes to performance it is not just one thing that you modify that will make a big difference it is the culmination of a lot of different things.
Like eliminating the base gasket. Modifying the muffler. Advance the timing. Matching the muffler port to the cylinder port.
Then there is porting the cylinder itself if you are so inclined and then you can add finger ports.
Then if you are a machinist and you have a lathe and skills you can cut the squish band the widen it and cut the base of the cylinder to bump up the compression.
But if I had to pick on thing that makes the biggest difference on most saws I would say it is the Muffler Mod.
Like eliminating the base gasket. Modifying the muffler. Advance the timing. Matching the muffler port to the cylinder port.
Then there is porting the cylinder itself if you are so inclined and then you can add finger ports.
Then if you are a machinist and you have a lathe and skills you can cut the squish band the widen it and cut the base of the cylinder to bump up the compression.
But if I had to pick on thing that makes the biggest difference on most saws I would say it is the Muffler Mod.
Just to keep you confused, not all saw motors run CCW. Lot of gear drives run the other way. I'll let you guess why.
I for one don't see a stock PP365 out cutting a good 3700. Maybe cutting little punky cookies but not in larger tough stuff..
Cookie cutting to decide a saws worth is not really playing in reality.
My 3.7 is low hour. Pretty good baseline to test from. I've ran that saw with a 28" bar cause the husky originally wearing decided to take the day off and we had a big old maple to cut. It pulled it no problem. I had the pics up here prob 8 years ago. Point being I agree.
Here you go a thread showing poulan weights. Lot of thanks go to Roger for this one. https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain-saw-weights/poulan-pho-weights/
No chain brakes on neither.
No chain brakes on neither.
Last 375 I took in look like new right down to recoil rope. I think someone had robbed the air filter cover at one time from it.
I sold it for $150 or $200 cant recall in less then 24hrs of taken in.
Pics after new owner cleaned the dust off.
I sold it for $150 or $200 cant recall in less then 24hrs of taken in.
Pics after new owner cleaned the dust off.
You guys are just getting old, there I said it!! All of the saws in the 56 cc to 65 cc are great firewood saws, I sometimes like a little more weight, saw is built with more metal/ magnesium etc. It’s funny that you guys talk so much about weight etc when we are dealing with heavy wood, you still have to pick it up etc to get the job done, I do like all of my saws, and when going for the big boys you can throw out all the weight concerns because you than are dealing with super heavy weight, all of those saws cut faster than any of you guys could ever keep up with anymore anyway, full tanks , sharp chains and let her rip
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Last time this 365 cut with 20" buried in ash. Tore it down for crankcase for someone here shortly afterwords.
365 is lighter and better handling for the limbing etc I do. Why I like it so much. Like a 3ci saw weight and handling but cuts like a 60cc when needed.
365 made every cut on this tree with with 20" buried several times, except last 2 cuts on butt log I let the 24" 6800 make them.
365 is lighter and better handling for the limbing etc I do. Why I like it so much. Like a 3ci saw weight and handling but cuts like a 60cc when needed.
365 made every cut on this tree with with 20" buried several times, except last 2 cuts on butt log I let the 24" 6800 make them.
So freaking true for me. Weight has become a issue for me big time.
Sold all my big saws. Dont like hauling around anything in the 16lb plus range PHO not counting the long bars and chains anymore.
Everytime I work on locals 3120 395's 394's 2100 2101 066's etc etc my back aches for a few days.
Weight was the big reason I sold the full wrap 385 and kept the half wrap 505. The 505 ran close enough to the 385 without the extra weight of it. Talking with 28" and 32" cutting.
Well, I guess having gears, guessing two, engine gear turning cw, the other, bar side, ccw for the correct direction for the chain. I don't know any thing about gear driven saws. If it has four gears, cw, ccw, cw, ccw.
Steve
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