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But, you paid a seven year old to make the parts for that saw. Correct?
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
What is the recommendation for ring gap, on the piston rings??? One ring is .004" and the other is .003"
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William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I've put the Cabers on all of mine and never checked them. My opinion is that gap is almost perfect. Maybe just a tiny bit tight, but I don't see any reason to go filing off 1 thou or so to get them around .005.... Especially on a double ring offset...
.006
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
All mine were around .006-8.
In the .003 range I would take a little off.
In the .003 range I would take a little off.
But, you paid a seven year old to make the parts for that saw. Correct?
You betcha!
And, if I ***** enuff, they will replace bad product.
Setting ring end gap is not that adnominal. I have had to do it on other brand rings. In the motorcycle world I do it every time I rebuild an engine. I restore a lot of McCullochs and have to do it every time.
Brian
Brian
ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
With everyones responses thus far, I will probably take a bit off, so that I don't possibly snag a ring on first start and break in because it is to tight. I want to build this thing, but using as much of the parts that came with it, but build it to last. That is exactly why I am taking my time on this. I really want to get it running, but want it to be right. The old saying, slow and steady wins the race.
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
I had a MS261 that I just redid with cabers. Everything else is OEM. My end gap was .003-.004. From the factory they are .007 new with Stihl components. That is on a 44.7mm cylinder. It was recommended .004" per inch of bore.
Ms660 has 54mm or 2.126" bore. I would highly recommend that you file them to at least .008" -.010".
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I was always taught 2.5 -3 thou per inch of bore, but we are splitting hairs here. I would say that "assuming" he got an "accurate" measurement, pushed in with the piston nice and square, above the exhaust port, he is a couple thou tight. We are talking a really fine line. I would say 6-8 would be perfect and he is at 3-4... Just gotta make sure to not compromise the indents and he only needs a couple light swipes off each side. I'd bet he is ok, because I really haven't seen anyone talking about hanging a ring...
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
I agree with you, its really hard to accurately measure the difference of .001"-.002"
The clone ms660s are really varied in sizes. Squish is all over the place. I've built 3, 2 needed base gasket removed, with one having to have the cylinder base shaved to get some decent compression. I can imagine that cylinder bores will be slightly variable. One needed the transfer tunnel ground to keep from hitting the case. I had a seal fail and sieze a crank. All the chain tensioners were junk.
Kudos to ssm1699 for actually checking and noticing they are tight.
Its after the fact, but after building 3x ms660, 1x ms440bb, and 1x ms360, it would be better money spent picking up an oem saw and rebuilding it. Like a ms441 or ms460. After the cost of switching kit parts for more reliable oem parts, plus time and issues, one comes close to the price of an oem saw that you rebuilt. And you get the reliability/longevity of an oem saw. I know this is a thread about building these kit saws, but I've had problem after problem with the kits. In the end after fixing all the issues, I still had a saw that wasn't worth much.
homervirden
ArboristSite Lurker
Has anyone got the new blue kit? Wondering if any other changes have been made...
Hey Bedford, how is your finger doing? I haven't heard from you in a while. Hope it's healing well.
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ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I made some major head way on my build last night. I have had little things holding me back, that were my fault. I had to do oil seals twice, as I ruined the first set that I put in because I was rushing things. Then in the process of installing the piston, my second circlip decided to go flying on me and went bye bye. Got my new circlips yesterday and the seals last week. The seals went in beautifully and the circlip is in too. Got the cylinder mounted and should be sealed as I put 1184 on both sides of the gasket to make sure it sealed. I made sure everything moved beautifully with the crank, every time I made a change that would affect it (i.e. install seals, install p & c, etc). Got the handle/fuel tank mounted. Brake, oil pump, clutch and drum. Hell, entire right side of the saw is put together. The only portion of a part not on the right side is the handle bar. That will be one of the last things I put on. My chain adjuster even feels pretty good. I lathered it with lubri-plate during assembly and ran it after I got it put together. It was a tad rough at very first, but has smoothed out just within running it forward and back, about 3 or 4 times. At first, I was a little intimidated by putting the brake parts together, but after watching Matt's video several times, I got it. One issue I had was there was still some flashing in the slot of the handle where the one piece slides through, so it wouldn't slide through completely. Got that cleaned out and everything together. I obviously don't have the muffler on yet, so I don't know about clearance between the handle and it, but the brake snaps on and off beautifully. Got the fly wheel on as well. I realize that I am possibly putting the cart before the horse by doing all of that before doing a pressure/vac test. But I feel pretty confident in how everything has went. Also, I am waiting on a new pressure/vac pump as I got mine from the garage and it has gone belly up. Lets just put it this way, between brake fluid eating at the aluminum head and the gauge some how getting damaged inside, it is dead. It does pump and pull a vacuum, but I don't trust it as I kind of got the gauge fixed and it reads, but it drops off quickly on both sides. I don't trust it to be accurate. Hell, I have had my kit for a month now and am finally this far. Hasn't helped that I have had a particular vehicle giving me troubles. That is hopefully taken care of and done. I know that there is a lot of debate on the carbs and whether or not to re-jet them. Who is running the carb that came with, as is and how is it doing? My kit came with the HLic WJ-67 clone, so I can get the oversized jet for it. I just figure that if it will run just fine with that jet, I may just leave it. Another question I have is how does the foil heat shield lay on the case? But so far, everything has been there. Sorry for the story guys.
Congrats on the progress so far. It can be frustrating at times.
I used the supplied carb. It runs pretty well although I have not really cut with it yet, just a few test cuts. I will test it out on the mill I bought for it when the weather cools down. I don't know about the foil. Mine didn't have it.
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I used the supplied carb. It runs pretty well although I have not really cut with it yet, just a few test cuts. I will test it out on the mill I bought for it when the weather cools down. I don't know about the foil. Mine didn't have it.
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William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I have two running on mills. Both are 56mm. One has the kit carb and runs perfect, the second one I couldn't get to tune right and I put a Walbro wj76 on it. Both saws are absolutely perfect. I did replace several parts with better parts, but nothing too crazy. OEM Bar studs, one has OEM chain adjuster and second has the kit adjuster but both are shimmed, caber rings, OEM decomp, one has OEM recoil drum and the other has a Highway Assembly, both kits have aftermarket seals in them, neither one has the trigger or control rod upgrade and both start fine.
The fast idle doesn't work on mine either. After ruining the kit chain adjuster, I bought another after market one and shimmed it with the brass tubing. It works so far but only tried it once. The only OEM part on mine is the Husqvarna decomp.
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ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
Did either of you rejet your kit carbs? I will hopefully know how my build is tomorrow, as my new vacuum/pressure kit comes tomorrow, supposedly. I may just leave mine as is and see what I get out of it. I will say that I am not running a big bore. If mine will tune and idle with the kit carb, but I have to adjust the screws out quite a bit, I may put the bigger jet in. Or maybe this coulb be my excuse to get a set of drill bits that have numbered and lettered bits in it. I am really looking forward to getting this saw running. I am going to try it without a decomp, since I am running about .035" of squish. I realize that this is a totally different ball of wax, compared to a plugged 039/MS390. But that is nothing for me to pull and I know it is blowing about 150 psi on the comp. It got a good hard breakin, bucking about 34"-42" diameter ash. I am hoping to get some good use on this, this fall at my in-laws farm, doing field perimeter maintenance.
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William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
My first kit carb tuned and works perfect, no need to rejet it. The second one wasn't tuning right so I just bought the big Walbro and it tuned perfect... Both saws run great and the plugs are golden brown tuned for milling between 12,500 and 12,800 with 36" bars on them...
Kit carb as is. .035 squish here too with no gasket. 150 lbs compression
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