McCulloch Chain Saws

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So today began my firewood season...it went better than expected. My firewood tractor is a massey ferguson 471 4x4. All tires loaded, loader frame on also. Its heavy so it has great traction. I started small with 2 trees that were down last fall. A black walnut and a shagbark hickory both similiar in diameter (17" or so). Both nearly 40ft long. Not huge but lots of wood. The awesome part was using a mcculloch saw! So a few weeks ago i asked help identifying what turned out to be a 6-10a. Well, it came back to me. The guy didnt like it and bought a stihl 170 on sale. To each their own. Stihl makes great stuff, so i was offered the 6-10. No hesitation on my part. I was the one who got it going in the first place so i know it runs. I was very pleased. Man that saw will cut. It has a 18" .325 bar and chain. That thing really eats. Winds out tight and does not slow down. Louder than heck but we have ear plugs for that...ha ha. Light weight, easy to handle. I was impressed to say the least. Tomorrow i have more dragging in to do before i buck and split. Ill try to get some photos. I cant say enough...70cc is awesome and fast!!!

Yaaaaayyyy you got it waaaahooo!!!

Good job I hoped he wouldn't like it lol

I reckon in smaller wood my best 70cc mac is the same if not faster than the 800 in below 20 inch with the same bar n chain. Much lighter and more nimble to boot.

Ron and Brian you guys have got a good setup going now. The big wood looks far easier with that handy dandy tractor

Jerry good to see your still into that old 7-10
 
I think we need to borrow Vinny's tractor for those big ones.

All this talk about 70cc saws makes me want to break out my PM700. I haven't run it in years. I can't find any anti-vibe gloves that look like they would hold up to firewood duty - maybe I should just wrap the handle with some foam. I purchased the PM700 new in January 1982. Cost me $400 and change. I could have bought a PM800 for a little more but the dealer talked me out of it.

Our season officially begins next Saturday. Sure hope the weather remembers that Fall is supposed to be cool - not 88 degrees.

Ron
 
I think we need to borrow Vinny's tractor for those big ones.

All this talk about 70cc saws makes me want to break out my PM700. I haven't run it in years. I can't find any anti-vibe gloves that look like they would hold up to firewood duty - maybe I should just wrap the handle with some foam. I purchased the PM700 new in January 1982. Cost me $400 and change. I could have bought a PM800 for a little more but the dealer talked me out of it.

Our season officially begins next Saturday. Sure hope the weather remembers that Fall is supposed to be cool - not 88 degrees.

Ron

I'm sure it would bring a smile again for ya Ron. Question does your 700 have any rubber on the handle?
 
Yaaaaayyyy you got it waaaahooo!!!

Jerry good to see your still into that old 7-10

Unfortunately life / work gets in the way sometimes...I powdercoated most of it but had some grounding problems so may need to redo so switching over to assembling the engine. I ordered a nice replica 7-10A sticker for the top, put it on the other day while not 100% and I realised I put it on upside down lol.
 
Unfortunately life / work gets in the way sometimes...I powdercoated most of it but had some grounding problems so may need to redo so switching over to assembling the engine. I ordered a nice replica 7-10A sticker for the top, put it on the other day while not 100% and I realised I put it on upside down lol.

Yes it certainly does sometimes. And I shouldn't laugh but it is rather funny about the decal lol.



Yes, all there. My hands just can’t take the vibes anymore - left hand goes numb in about a tank of cutting. A/V of the 82cc MACs really helps.

Ron

Yeah I suppose they do rattle quite a lot compared the 82cc and realy notice it after when swapping from 1 to the other. I haven't ran a saw with the factory rubber for ages lately its been the 7-10 plastic type or the straight alloy 10-10 or...... the milk line tube on the 700 and wow it's nice but don't remember it vs the factory but it's very nice compared to alloy.

Vinny how you finding that milk line?
 
Hey Jethro

Do you know if most of the parts off a pro mac 60 would fit the 7-10A? I'm thinking clutch cover / muffler are the primary parts I need - they look the same from what I can tell...there is a parts one locally that I can get for cheap (relative to sourcing the parts from the USA).
 
Hey Jethro

Do you know if most of the parts off a pro mac 60 would fit the 7-10A? I'm thinking clutch cover / muffler are the primary parts I need - they look the same from what I can tell...there is a parts one locally that I can get for cheap (relative to sourcing the parts from the USA).

Yeah mate go grab it who knows it mite be worth fixing too.
 
Jethro, that milk line tubing is fantastic!! It seems extremely durable and is a tad thicker than any factory rubber grip so its great to hold onto. I actually put that handle onto the 6-10 i used. I really like it. Highly recommend it to anyone!:numberone:
 
Jethro, that milk line tubing is fantastic!! It seems extremely durable and is a tad thicker than any factory rubber grip so its great to hold onto. I actually put that handle onto the 6-10 i used. I really like it. Highly recommend it to anyone!:numberone:

Milk line tubing? Where do you source it?
 
If the rings are good, bad seals won't have much effect on top end compression. You mean you don't have that thing torn down yet? LOL

And wasn't someone just looking for an SP 40 manual? The post seems to have disappeared. Here's an IPL. The service manual I have is barely legible.

That was me. I was looking for the Shop Manual though. I have the IPL already.
 
If the rings are good, bad seals won't have much effect on top end compression. You mean you don't have that thing torn down yet? LOL

And wasn't someone just looking for an SP 40 manual? The post seems to have disappeared. Here's an IPL. The service manual I have is barely legible.
When I do get it apart I'll post pictures.

Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 
I've been a little busy folks.I bought 2 nice big old Macs from a fellow member here.I got a 1-46 that I'm still working on & I just got a 250 going,it didn't take much to get it going - a new fuel tank gasket,new fuel filter,& a new fuel cap.I had to play around with the flatback carb a bit to get it going.I put a new fuel line on it too,that I found hanging in my garage from God only knows when.Lol Anyway I got it running fairly well today & made a test cut with it on the wood pile.Man can that saw cut! It has a .404 on it.
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Ed
I love 404 and the saws that pull it. I just got a loop of 1/2 inch made for the Poulan Super 68 gear drive, but, I'm half afraid to try it out. I figure every time I use it I'm going to pick the logs up on giant bucks, peel all the bark off, then cut. Every time I sharpen it, it's one sharpening closer to having to try and find another loop.
 
Jethro, that milk line tubing is fantastic!! It seems extremely durable and is a tad thicker than any factory rubber grip so its great to hold onto. I actually put that handle onto the 6-10 i used. I really like it. Highly recommend it to anyone!:numberone:

Awww good glad ya like it and found a great way to get it on too. I have had mine on the 700 for well over a year now and yeah your right its stupidly durable it laughs at gas and scuffing on things. I will try and shape up a bit of it for the rear handle next although Mark's 3d printed ones look good.

Milk line tubing? Where do you source it?

If ya want some I can send some up. It's not exactly cheap around 25nz at ya door Vinny had a good hunt around and it appears to be very hard to get up there well the right size is anyway. It comes in 500 mm lengths and that's bang on for a 10 series handle its actually auto drain hose so it's a bit thinner wall than regular milk line and kind of a pain as I have an endless supply of actual milk line. It's the same rubber though. It goes on the bottom of the milk cans and other low points and is squeezed by a vacuum cylinder and after the plant is turned off the vacuum is gone and then it drains away. It deals with very nasty acid and hot water and also the milk line "same rubber" deals with being rubbed on concrete for hours on end ,stood on by cows, jammed, stretched, and abused in every way you can think of for around 12 hours everyday 300 days a year lol.

Sorry for the novel it is dam good stuff though and looks like OEM
 
Well I've had this 790 on the shelf for several weeks now awaiting replacement of a starter pawl. Well, managed to get clutch apart and replaced pawl, pin, and spring. Last night I fought trying to get clutch back together for over an hour to no avail. Please somebody has got to have some tips, that spring is crazy strong.20190930_203122.jpg
 
Never done one, but what I would try is, get a friend and 4 good screw drivers. Hook the spring together, stick the screw drivers in the square holes and try to stretch it up into the groove. Or, make some kind of clamp/jig that would work like 2 extra hands.
 
Awww good glad ya like it and found a great way to get it on too. I have had mine on the 700 for well over a year now and yeah your right its stupidly durable it laughs at gas and scuffing on things. I will try and shape up a bit of it for the rear handle next although Mark's 3d printed ones look good.



If ya want some I can send some up. It's not exactly cheap around 25nz at ya door Vinny had a good hunt around and it appears to be very hard to get up there well the right size is anyway. It comes in 500 mm lengths and that's bang on for a 10 series handle its actually auto drain hose so it's a bit thinner wall than regular milk line and kind of a pain as I have an endless supply of actual milk line. It's the same rubber though. It goes on the bottom of the milk cans and other low points and is squeezed by a vacuum cylinder and after the plant is turned off the vacuum is gone and then it drains away. It deals with very nasty acid and hot water and also the milk line "same rubber" deals with being rubbed on concrete for hours on end ,stood on by cows, jammed, stretched, and abused in every way you can think of for around 12 hours everyday 300 days a year lol.

Sorry for the novel it is dam good stuff though and looks like OEM
That stuff looks good. I was thinking it looked real close to the rubber on my Super 1050's. Went out yesterday and the 2 on the shelf have near mint rubber on them. I had one that had the grip torn right in the middle of where my hand gripped it. Made it hard to grip, wound up using my pinky and ring finger to hold the saw, and my thumb and other 2 fingers just hanging in space. After a long session I'd get serious cramps in that hand. The saw with the half grip may be in the basement, or I got rid of it.
 
Yes, all there. My hands just can’t take the vibes anymore - left hand goes numb in about a tank of cutting. A/V of the 82cc MACs really helps.

Ron

Ron,

I was getting white finger so I went to some anti vibe gloves which are very good but don't stand up to swinging an axe. I use cuffed insulated work gloves now which are pretty economical and stand up very well. I can't feel the vibration through them.
The pic attached is the typical cheap type but not the ones I use.
firm-grip-work-gloves-5187-06-64_1000.jpg

You should be able to pick some up at a hardware store or if they don't sell that stuff in your climate zone I think Home Depot does ship to store.

The link is a pair of goat skin gloves. Waterproof and insulated. Goat skin is very tough.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HANDS-O...Palm-Glove-100-Waterproof-LP2210-XL/311189277
 

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