I hang out mostly in the chainsaw forum, but drop in here to read from time to time. I could use everyone's help on this one. I plan on building a splitter to suit my needs. This will be a winter project, but I am in the planning and design stage now. It will be a horizontal splitter with a log-lift. I would like to know what you all feel is a good, ergonomic height for the splitting bed (top of the I-beam). I was thinking 22" - 26" would be about right. I will only be using the log lift for the BIG stuff. I will probably be lifting 8 out of 10 pieces on by hand. What are your thoughts?
Ergonomic splitter dimensions
- Thread starter Four Paws
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Sprig
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The less you bend your back the better imo, I'd hazzard an opinion that the best height would be about where your arms hang when holdin' a piece of wood
& good luck on the project!
My splitter is about 20 years old. A couple years ago I raised the work height from 26" to 29.5". It allows me to work not being bent over, minimizing back strains.
Waist high or a bit lower. You will be manipulating the blocks continually. Bending over gets real tiring, real fast. BTDT and still doing it. Every winter I say I am going to chop the running gear off my homebuilt and have it raised 9". Been sayint it for the past 10 years. (Don't have a torch or welder).
Harry K
Harry K
For ergonomic designs take a look at TimberDevil and SuperAxe
[URL="http://http://www.superaxe.com.au/superaxe.html"]http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html[/URL]
[URL="http://http://www.superaxe.com.au/superaxe.html"]http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html[/URL]
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lift kit
Grab your saw and cut a pair of "car ramps" out of blocks. Then stick the post on a short block. I have done this if the splitter is too low.
Then there are the guys who LOVE the vertical style. Yea, you don't pick the block up. Instead you are bent the entire time! :taped:
-Pat
Grab your saw and cut a pair of "car ramps" out of blocks. Then stick the post on a short block. I have done this if the splitter is too low.
Then there are the guys who LOVE
the vertical style. Yea, you don't pick the block up. Instead you are bent the entire time! :taped: -Pat
As to the blocks to lift it. Been there but it takes two people to get it up there and I am only one. Needs to be moved everytime I mow also. Wife too disabled anymore to lend a hand.Grab your saw and cut a pair of "car ramps" out of blocks. Then stick the post on a short block. I have done this if the splitter is too low.
Then there are the guys who LOVE
-Pat
Amen to that! I can't see it either. They claim it is good for the big blocks. I work big blocks all the time and either break 'em down to size with wedges or saw the crotches first. I would a whole lot sooner put a few seconds in with a sledge/wedge than be bent way over trying to horse a big round into position.
Harry K
Correction to my "waist high" for a good height...No, that's too high. You want it like someone else said. About where your hands dangle would be right.
Harry K
Harry K
A lot of good input here guys. So dang hot that I just might spend a portion of today at the computer drawing some stuff on AutoCAD. This is something I will build and keep with me for the rest of my life...so I plan on putting some quality equipment into it, as well as planning for versatility. Keep posting, I like hearing your comments and the links you all have posted as well.
Josh
Josh
jags
ArboristSite Guru
With arms extended down, you should be able to touch the tips of your fingers to the I-beams without bending. Anywhere close to the 28" range should work well.
One thing I made sure of on my homebuilt was to get the "works' (motor, pump, tank) out of my way. Wound up with a very tongue heavy unit though. I always wondered about the commercials, especially the tip-ups. Seems that there is an intrusion on all of them right where the place to stand while operating it.
Harry K
Harry K
my 35ton speeco goes horizontal or vertical. so I get my choice of positions.
I'd say vertical has been used almost the entire time. main reason is no lifting. energy required to roll say a 2ft x 2ft round into vertical position vs lifting same log into horizontal position to split.
naturally if I had a power lift, it would be different. but I don't so vertical is the preferred mode.
I'd say vertical has been used almost the entire time. main reason is no lifting. energy required to roll say a 2ft x 2ft round into vertical position vs lifting same log into horizontal position to split.
naturally if I had a power lift, it would be different. but I don't so vertical is the preferred mode.
Patrick62; said:Then there are the guys who LOVE
-Pat
jags
ArboristSite Guru
Harry - I agree with this 100%. The last thing I want when I have a round in my hands is to bump around the tires and hydraulics. I have noticed that most models of the vert/horiz types have a very small "comfort" zone when in horizontal mode. Get the stuff out of the way, and give me room to work.
The vertical splitters are not for me. I can lift alot better than I can kneel on the ground all day. Knees just won't take it. Hence....the log lifter.totally true! I've tried both and without a life. vertical with it's bending over is much better than bending over, lifting 200+ lb logs up to horizontal position.
don't think I could operate in horizontal mode without a lift. for larger rounds anyways...
don't think I could operate in horizontal mode without a lift. for larger rounds anyways...
turnkey4099; said:
