McCulloch Chain Saws

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Is there gas coming out the muffler? I've had saws fill up with gas in the carb box and the cylinder/exhaust due to the fuel needle and/or a loose welch plug. It basically siphons out the entire tank if you let it sit long enough. Once you clear out the excess the saw will still run, but usually has idle issues in these instances.
 
Is there gas coming out the muffler? I've had saws fill up with gas in the carb box and the cylinder/exhaust due to the fuel needle and/or a loose welch plug. It basically siphons out the entire tank if you let it sit long enough. Once you clear out the excess the saw will still run, but usually has idle issues in these instances.
I have been looking for that. But no signs it thus far. I replaced the line and filter, sealed the line coming through the tank. I will try it tomorrow, wanted it to cure good. I am waiting on several new plastic value inserts for the fuel cap to replace this one and a couple others. I will keep ya'll posted on the 10-10. On a good note I got the carb kit in the zama and a new fuel line and filter on the 805, it seems to be running good. The 805 had set about 7 years before I got ahold of it. the test block cuts showed it to be torquey. its as strong as my SP81. I love fooling with these old Macs. I hate bothering you guys with this 10-10 issue but its got me scratching my head, but I guess that's how ya learn.

Max
 
Talking about lines that leak years ago I had a old 69 bronco and it was using brake fluid but no sign of where. Well my brother and I were hunting and I had to stop on a steep hill so we could use the winch. My brother is hooking up the winch cable to the battery and I'm holding the brakes on. He hollered do you know you have a hole in your brake line. So we trade places and the hose from the master cylinder has this fine and I mean fine mist coming from it when you really put the pressure to it. Anyway they can leak at the strangest places.
 
Talking about lines that leak years ago I had a old 69 bronco and it was using brake fluid but no sign of where. Well my brother and I were hunting and I had to stop on a steep hill so we could use the winch. My brother is hooking up the winch cable to the battery and I'm holding the brakes on. He hollered do you know you have a hole in your brake line. So we trade places and the hose from the master cylinder has this fine and I mean fine mist coming from it when you really put the pressure to it. Anyway they can leak at the strangest places.
I had one that blew straight on to the tube header in my 73 dodge so it burned off and I never saw it till my brakes went out.
 
I have been looking for that. But no signs it thus far. I replaced the line and filter, sealed the line coming through the tank. I will try it tomorrow, wanted it to cure good. I am waiting on several new plastic value inserts for the fuel cap to replace this one and a couple others. I will keep ya'll posted on the 10-10. On a good note I got the carb kit in the zama and a new fuel line and filter on the 805, it seems to be running good. The 805 had set about 7 years before I got ahold of it. the test block cuts showed it to be torquey. its as strong as my SP81. I love fooling with these old Macs. I hate bothering you guys with this 10-10 issue but its got me scratching my head, but I guess that's how ya learn.

Max
Alot of times I'll put a tank seal in and button everything up, then set the saw out in the blazing sun with the air cleaner cover off , that'll make it build pressure to the whole system and a mystery leak will show up pretty quickly, obviously it works better in the summer.
I did have a 10-10a that the cap vent was too tight and it would build pressure and push the needle off the seat and flood the saw ,but only in weather above 70° , it would even flood the saw while it was running in really hot weather.
 
Looks like that is the Mac number for the small clutch side seal. I'm kinda impatient and hoping to find seals from local bearing supply house instead of waiting on nos Mac seals from eBay. Of course I'll go that route if I gotta.
 
Looks like that is the Mac number for the small clutch side seal. I'm kinda impatient and hoping to find seals from local bearing supply house instead of waiting on nos Mac seals from eBay. Of course I'll go that route if I gotta.
There's a big bearing and seal place up the next town from me and if you take the old seals they can match them up for you. If they are like the one near me.
 
I had one that blew straight on to the tube header in my 73 dodge so it burned off and I never saw it till my brakes went out.
Luckily I had just rebuilt the rear brake drum set in the back and drove home holding the handle out and pumping the emergency brake pedal, I was in the city and wasn't exactly thrilled about leaving my truck in the ghetto overnight.
 
On vacation watching reruns of Home Improvement when I see what appeared to be a PM8200 labeled as a Binford. I’ve always liked the Tool Man.
Ron

PS Keep posting, guys. I am getting bored - had about enough of sitting in a recliner.

If you were a green saw man you could have your very own Tim Allen signature poulan saw. Or you could sticker up a spare 800:)
 
So I was going through my parts boxes tonight and decided to see what differences I can see in sp80 and sp81 cylinders. First off the 81 has bridged open transfers and 80 doesn't.
20200608_222300.jpg20200608_222321.jpg

Next the fin count is higher on the 80 and they seem to be a bit thinner. 80 is on left
20200608_222410.jpg

Next thing I noticed is that the intake on the 80 seems a little bit smoother. This 81 cylinder will definitely get this transition smoothed out before reassembly.
20200608_222522.jpg20200608_222618.jpg
 
So I was going through my parts boxes tonight and decided to see what differences I can see in sp80 and sp81 cylinders. First off the 81 has bridged open transfers and 80 doesn't.
View attachment 834506View attachment 834507

Next the fin count is higher on the 80 and they seem to be a bit thinner. 80 is on left
View attachment 834508

Next thing I noticed is that the intake on the 80 seems a little bit smoother. This 81 cylinder will definitely get this transition smoothed out before reassembly.
View attachment 834509View attachment 834510
Some early sp81 also had the open transfers. Ive seen intakes also that were rough. I smoothed them out as well and the saw idled better.
 
20200609_034414.jpg
I believe i found the reason for low compression and the nasty grinding sound as i slowly turned the saw over. Backstory...i found a great looking pm805 and bought it. Yes ebay and seller said it had lots of compression. I made an offer and it shows up. 50/50 chance of a good engine from ebay. Again the rest of it looked very good. So i tried turning it over gently and it sounds like sand in the engine. So i take it apart and to my dismay i find this. The exhaust side has very little chrome left on it. Intake side is ok. The saw looks like it was barely used. Very little saw dust on it. But very little chrome. Ive got few options at this point, find a cylinder or rechrome this one. Piston is garbage also. Anyone have a good spare theyd be willing to sell? Its a q port exhaust, 82cc, drilled for decomp valve.
 
View attachment 834525
I believe i found the reason for low compression and the nasty grinding sound as i slowly turned the saw over. Backstory...i found a great looking pm805 and bought it. Yes ebay and seller said it had lots of compression. I made an offer and it shows up. 50/50 chance of a good engine from ebay. Again the rest of it looked very good. So i tried turning it over gently and it sounds like sand in the engine. So i take it apart and to my dismay i find this. The exhaust side has very little chrome left on it. Intake side is ok. The saw looks like it was barely used. Very little saw dust on it. But very little chrome. Ive got few options at this point, find a cylinder or rechrome this one. Piston is garbage also. Anyone have a good spare theyd be willing to sell? Its a q port exhaust, 82cc, drilled for decomp valve.
I feel ya... Good blocks are getting harder and harder to find. IF you know of someone who can re- chrome it I would have it done. Bob in NY said he has a shop that can re work them and re-chrome for $300. Thats a lot of money but then I have paid $200 for an 850 with a (unknown to me at the time) scored cylinder. I would also try and find an extra good block. One can't have to many. But if you find you do, let me know I will buy a few lol. On the piston... A, B , or C?
Hope you get her straight and running soon.

Max
 
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