Could it be rev limited for mowers?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I should try 1 but just haven't had the need yet.
The rev limit question is an interesting 1 and it may well be limited. The mower is ofcourse governed but a limit would be a good idea if the hose came off
The rev limit question is an interesting 1 and it may well be limited. The mower is ofcourse governed but a limit would be a good idea if the hose came off
Rather than wait till the last min.when you really need it,why not try one now when you get a little spare time as an experiment?
I may be uploading it in correctly. But I had to download it to watch it after posting it in the thread myself
I wasn't able to see it either,just a black screen.I was able to see the video however on FB McCulloch N.A.
Well I finally got the Mac 3816 running after witing 1 1/2 yrs.(almost).I had trouble with getting a fuel line in & called it quits.While doing fuel lines on a 3216 I had the same issue,but I figured out what was going on.Today I hooked the fuel lines up & put a new primer bulb in it & it fired right up.I had to make a couple of carb adjustments & it throttles up good & idles good too.Tomorrow if I have time I'll finish putting it back together.
I've been on a .404 kick lately but the limited bar selection is dismal for McCulloch, unless I want it in .58/.63 gauge or 3 feet long and a husky mount.
Luckily I had a member on here contact me who had a roll of .404 in .050 square chisel and another member got me 2 loops in. 050 chipper.
Most 24/25" bars take 80DL in .404 but a loop of 74DL puts my adjustment hole on a D176 bar almost in the middle, if anyone else is considering doing this.
Here's a cut.
Any particular reason you wanted .050”?
I use a converted 25” 77dl Stihl bar. 78dl fits it better, due to my separate adjuster hole.
Ron
I use a converted 25” 77dl Stihl bar. 78dl fits it better, due to my separate adjuster hole.
Ron
Do you recall approximately where your carb adjustments are? Around 1 turn out?
I'll be doing the same job sooner or later.
If it has the Zama carb on it,it'll need an RB39 kit,it should have a Zama C1Q carb.Yeah,I started at 1 turn out & had to open it up a bit more on both lo & hi about 1/4-1/2 turns..Funny thing I forgot to mention,when I went to shut it off it wouldn't.I had to choke it to stop it.Now I have to split the saw again to put a wire back on that must've come off.Lol
I already have so many bars in .050 and the opportunity to to get some chain at a very good price . Basically convenience and timing like anything else.
It is noticeably lighter than. 063 guage.
Thanks, just curious as I didn’t know .050” .404 existed a so I figured a .050 sprocket nose bar would be rare as well. Do you have many or are your bars hard nose and roller nose?
Ron
Ron
Well I have the 81 torn down. Things don't look too bad. Not sure how/why seals spun when saw was together, I can't move them independent of the bearing now. It also doesn't appear the bearings were moving in the case. What do you guys think. There is a bit of wear around retaining pin on clutch side. Is the pin usually this flat?
Also, how on earth do you get the seal out of the mag side bearing? Any tricks?
Also, how on earth do you get the seal out of the mag side bearing? Any tricks?
Funny enough all the Oregon bar tips are basically 1 guage, when you buy a replacement tip even in 3/8ths its listed as all 3 gauges.
Some of the old bars are just 1 guage or 2.
I'm not really a big fan of the hard nose bars ,so the ones I have are display only.
On the hard nose bars: I am the same. I get a hard tip in good shape on a saw I want to run I take it off and hang it up in case I ever sell the saw, which to date I have never sold a mac. I was at my uncles today and decided to do a saw count. 44 Macs between us mostly 82cc saws about seven 10-10 and a few of the 700 7-10 and 55s. I think we are addicts! lol.
I like the 55 and 10-10s saws they're the saw that surprise everyone, the 70cc and 80cc saws are great but they cut like a 70 or 80cc saw and the performance is kind of expected.
But those 57cc macs really feel like they'd whip up on a modern saw , and they don't have to be babied through the cut . If you get the chance definitely try any good running pro mac 55 .
I've got a nice homelite hardnose if anyone is interested.
What's the mount pattern on the Homelite hardnose bar?
Big c-body, open slot.
Id say the pin is fine. It serves 2 purposes, stop it from spinning and setting it in the right spot on the crankshaft. Ive seen them that flat with no issues.
To replace fw seal....pry that thing out. Ive heard of guys drilling and using a screw. I used a pair of fine needle nose pliers too. Stick the nose in by the crank shaft and pry it up. Or a small screwdriver. Whatever you use pry it out. Set the new one to the same depth with a socket or whatever works. Looks like a fun project.
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