McCulloch Chain Saws

[edju1958]

Big c-body, open slot.

F014 mount?Did it come off your 1050?What's the length of the bar?

 

[mogulmasher]

Id say the pin is fine. It serves 2 purposes, stop it from spinning and setting it in the right spot on the crankshaft. Ive seen them that flat with no issues.
To replace fw seal....pry that thing out. Ive heard of guys drilling and using a screw. I used a pair of fine needle nose pliers too. Stick the nose in by the crank shaft and pry it up. Or a small screwdriver. Whatever you use pry it out. Set the new one to the same depth with a socket or whatever works. Looks like a fun project.

Ok I will try that. I just didn't know how much of a fight the seal would be seems pretty solid in there.

Yes should be a fun project. Can't wait to clean it up and run it. Honestly though for as inconsistent as it ran I thought the air leak or leaks would have been more obvious. Oh well, I'll put new seals in, clean it up and button it up right and hope for the best. Unfortunately this saw was suppose to be a low use saw in need of nothing when I bought it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

F014 mount?Did it come off your 1050?What's the length of the bar?

Yup 1050A ,pm me and I'll respond to any questions Ed.

 

[heimannm]

I normally drill a small hole in the flywheel side seal and use a slide hammer with a tapered screw to pull them out.



On the PTO side, sometimes the assembler was not careful to get the dowel in the hole of the insert and that can leave a spot on the insert as well.

Mark

 

[mogulmasher]

Yes Mark when I look close at the pin there's a flat on one edge of it. I was thinking it wasn't quite centered in bearing at some point when the case halves were tightened.

 

[mogulmasher]

Easy peezy, seals out. I'll order seals tomorrow.....I'm assuming my local bearing supply house should have them.

 

[heimannm]

PTO side is SKF6119, I think the flywheel side is Dichtomatik TB056132 but take the seal and the shaft measurement along to be absolutely sure.

Mark

 

[mogulmasher]

I was told pto side skf 6120 and flywheel side skf 5756. What's the difference between skf 6119 and 6120?

 

[mogulmasher]

Already answered my own question, 6119 is double lip and 6120 is single....guess I'll go with the 6119.

 

[2broke2ride]

Hi guys, havent been around much lately, saws have taken a back burner to home improvement projects. I did get out a bit today running the 5-10. I used it noodling some oak rounds down to manageable pieces. It still seems to have some bugs to work out. It loses spark intermittently. Seems to only happen at an idle, sometimes it will start right back up, sometimes it will take 10+ pulls. It caught it acting up long enough to verify it with an inline spark tester so I know its spark. I'm on my second (used) coil with this saw already, does this sound like a points issue to you guys? Or possibly kill switch? I'm not opposed to putting a chip in it either.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[vinnywv]

I would go with points but because ive seen that before with a set. The points on this saw wouldnt close all the time.

 

[knightmax]

Guys,

I need your thoughts. A couple weeks back I scarfed up another 10-10s in real good cosmetic shape. Good compression, everything look good. the gas left in it looked iffy when i dumped otherwise all was well. I fueled it and it popped and ran. I adjusted the carb and she ran really good. I left her sit overnight in the shop and when i walked in the next morning I smelled gas bad. The saw had leaked gas, but not from the fuel cap. I opened the carb cab and there was fuel all inside it. I said ok leaking tank seal. I separated it, replaced gasket, put some permatex moto sealer on it and screwed it back together. after letting it sit for a day I fueled it, ran it, then let it sit. No leaking I could find so all was good or so I thought. The next day I smell gas again in the shop. Opened the carb cab, again there was gas in it. So I tore the tank apart and resealed it all again left it sit 3 days before fueling and running. no apparent leaks, i watched it close for several hours off and on. I thought, that fixed her and sat her on the bench with an absorbent pad under it.That was two maybe three days ago. I checked it yesterday no fuel leaks all good, then ran it a few minutes and set her back on bench. This morning once again I smelled fuel when I walked into the shop and guess what? Yeap fuel in carb cab, pad soaked in fuel. I have looked carefully at the fuel line and I can't see any issues with it or where it comes through the tank.But my next step is to replace it and seal tank line hole when I do. I am also thinking maybe the carb itself is weeping and needs rebuilt or replaced. This leak is small and for the life of me I cant find the cause. I just wanted opinions before i start throwing parts at the problem.Unless the tank is cracked and I missed it when I checked it over, I cant see how the tank is still leaking. Thoughts?

 

[Syncop8r]

Could it be siphoning back from the fuel tank because the vent is blocked?

 

[knightmax]

Could it be siphoning back from the fuel tank because the vent is blocked?

Fuel Cap vent? I pulled the vent out of the cap to check that. No visible signs of it leaking via cap with or without the vent assembly in fuel cap. Like I said, sorta scratching my head on this one LOL. my gut keeps thinking some sort of hairline crack in the carburetor. But it runs good, adjusts good. I need to just replace the fuel line before I pull the carb. Never has one act this way, and I am sure when I figure it out I will slap my forehead.

Max

 

[mogulmasher]

Definitely start with the fuel line. Is the saw stored with the fuel level at/above fuel line leaving tank? My 10-10a will do this if I store with a full tank, when I make sure it's below the line it never leaks.

 

[mogulmasher]

Also after running it try opening cap to see if there is a vacuum in there, you'll hear a poof of air. If so cap vent is plugged. When duckbill valve out squirt carb cleaner in the little hole and see if it squirts out the hole on the side.

 

[knightmax]

Definitely start with the fuel line. Is the saw stored with the fuel level at/above fuel line leaving tank? My 10-10a will do this if I store with a full tank, when I make sure it's below the line it never leaks.

On the tank fill level. 3/4 full each/every time. drop varied from half the first time to empty basically this morning

 

[mogulmasher]

Does the level drop stop once it goes below where fuel line exits tank? My 10-10a has a crappy am fuel line that shrunk the second fuel hit it, so it seeps fuel.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Test the fuel line and tank with air pressure and the tank vent with vac. Pinch the fuel line at the filter with forceps or use a golf tee or other means of blocking the line and apply pressure at the carb end to test the line. And check the carb end of the line very carefully for any holes/perforations. Remove whatever is blocking the line and pressurize the tank to see if it holds. It may leak down slightly through the vent. If you have a way (MityVac) to draw vacuum through the fuel line to test the tank vent, dump your fuel first!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Rebuild the carb, replace the fuel line. If your positive the tank is sealed then don't waste your time, the new rubber gasket is a win on these.