Jonsered Chainsaws

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Spotted a couple saws in a bunch of saws, trimmers, mower for sale.

Got some rough saws. Bonus is the metal clutch cover which is pretty hard to find. Sold a NOS cover like it.

Probably just going to part them after checking out if not suitable for rebuilds.

j2077e8000.jpgj2077e80000.jpgj2077metalcc.jpg
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Real1shepherd said:
Notice the cracks between the bar stud holes???
Yeah, let em call my 'banker' and get back to ya on this one......has it been underwater?

Kevin
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Oh yeah......more broke junk at NOS prices!!!! I guess if you needed one badly enough you could get it welded for another $50.......then it would be "fixed" junk....
 
Cantdog said:
Very Nice Work!!!
Click to expand...

I'm talking with Aaron about fixing my old Granberg square file chisel chain jig. Another AS member who was a machinist did one.....but he doesn't want to do another one.

Aaron said when he got time, he'd maybe do it.

I think it's possible to take a modern Granberg and make it a square chisel sharpener if anyone might be interested. And not that guy on YouTube who made a triangle file work. That was just cobbled up crap. This would be the real deal that takes a double bevel Pfred chisel chain file.
https://www.baileysonline.com/pferd-double-bevel-square-chisel-bit-chainsaw-files-15070p.html

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
I'm talking with Aaron about fixing my old Granberg square file chisel chain jig. Another AS member who was a machinist did one.....but he doesn't want to do another one.

Aaron said when he got time, he'd maybe do it.

I think it's possible to take a modern Granberg and make it a square chisel sharpener if anyone might be interested. And not that guy on YouTube who made a triangle file work. That was just cobbled up crap. This would be the real deal that takes a double bevel Pfred chisel chain file.
https://www.baileysonline.com/pferd-double-bevel-square-chisel-bit-chainsaw-files-15070p.html

Kevin
Click to expand...
Well...I hope he can help you out. Over on this side we don' have a clue about square filing or even grinding for that matter. Our wood is much smaller and generally on flatter terrain. Full comp chisel chain is about as exotic as we get. That said.....I am going to change the bar studs on my 910E so I can run a 32" Cannon 3/8" Large Husky mount bar on it. A friend down south said he would send me a square ground chain to try as soon as I can get an accurate drive link count for him. Can't wait!!
 
Cantdog said:
I would very carefully check for any up and down play on either end of the crankshaft......if none discovered I would pop the seals and wash the bearings out with mix and an acid brush, rotating the crank and flushing frequently. Keep at it until the flush mix is clean....then check the bearing play again.....main bearings should be tight and the crank spin smoothly. If so so I wouldn't split the cases. The Husky tool works great on the larger saws as it leaves the bearings in the case half which can can then be easily tapped out. Other methods work but if the bearing comes out with the crank it's somewhat of a pain to get them off the crankshaft later. Not undoable but a few more steps with a bearing separator and a bar type puller...the PTO side can be a bit more difficult as you also have to pull the oil pump drive gear from the crank.

My puller will be here today!!! Thanks in advance!!
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Real1shepherd said:
I agree with Robin....up & down movement of the con rod while the crank is secured and up & down play of the crank ends is what you look for.....if neither, wash out those bearings and go with new seals.

That saw doesn't look like it's had enough hrs on it to show wear with the crank/bearings. Jonsered(s) cranks and bearings were top flight tuff stuff back in the day. :cheers:I wouldn't hesitate to keep going with what ya got if there's no play.

Looks like a lot of coke & carbon....too much oil in the mix. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.......I get real tired of these 16:1 guys using modern, ported saws.:omg:
Or maybe he just ran it hella fat.....I dunno.

Kevin
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Thanks guys. The bearings are tighter than a nuns dirty so I won’t mess with splitting the case. Also I’m working on a few other bits that I can copy like the bar adjuster and parts of the oiler.
 
Yeah....I'm speculating here on how to make a square file jig from a present Granberg. I know it can be done....just not sure of the effort and cost. Mainly, I want to get my old G-107 back to working like it was when new. Over the long yrs as it fell into disrepair, I've had to do my own, non machine shop repairs. It works fine, just uber fiddly.

The thing about square file jigs and grinders is that you've got about five things going on at once you have to be conscious of. The grinders are better to set up, but they still require a lengthy learning curve. However, once you master square file sharpening and see the cutting results, you'll likely never go back to round filing. Now they've got square file chain in 3/8" ....so there's something for everyone.

I need to find the original instructions for the G-107. I filed them yrs ago and so far are MIA. They are crazy confusing when first starting....but after awhile if you reread them, they make sense. I could make a video too I suppose, for a newbie to it.

Also with these progressive raker gauges and keeping your gullet filed down, it's no longer necessary to file down the cutter teeth to exactly the same length. You can take old chain with uneven cutters and make them cut perfectly.
 
Goinwheelin said:
Thanks guys. The bearings are tighter than a nuns dirty so I won’t mess with splitting the case. Also I’m working on a few other bits that I can copy like the bar adjuster and parts of the oiler.
Click to expand...

Yeah, a 70E that shows minimal hrs is going to have crank bearings with no play. Con rod too should be fine. The only benefit to running too fat or like 16:1 is that plenty of oil is lubricating everything....lol.

Man, anything you can make to duplicate factory parts is fantastic. If I get some money ahead, I'm buying a 70E later this summer/fall. Unfortunately, it's the model with the SEM's module under the flywheel.:confused:.

Kevin
 
I think I mentioned this before but....there's an AS member who has access to a commercial 3D printer that's making the plastic flywheel fans for the 70E for about $40. I've heard they are first rate with no issues so far.....been out some yrs now. The OE fans have a propensity to 'let go' and can mess up the inside of the recoil cover. I'll probably buy one and start off that way.

Kevin
 

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