272XP on the bench.

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Runs good, starts on 2 pulls cold and the decomp makes it feel as easy as an ms171 with a scored cylinder. Only thing im really watching is if i set it down for like 20 minutes and come back...switch on, rip the rope, it fires right off but idles high for a few seconds. I may hit the carb screws again just to be sure. I idled it for 10 minutes, came back and ripped it wide open and it took right off no hesitation.

New chain and a bit more of a sprocket tipped bar coming for it..but it runs great. I wasn't sure where to set the metering lever on the tilly so i left it alone...seemed low, flush with the little depression its in.

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Had this acct for many years and this was the first video ive ever uploaded...

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She's a bit lean. Both lo and hi.

in my world anyway.
Im going to raise the metering lever a hair. It burbles out rich then feels lean but the plug reads medium cocoa brown. Im also learning about hard nose bars, i don't like them and in 16 years of working on saws ive seen 3 and this is the first one ive owned.

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Got the dual port (dual 5/8") muffler in late this evening and bolted on. Going to raise the metering lever and retune tomorrow if the weather allows it...but initial reaction is holy hell the muffler really woke it up alot.
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sometimes noise is mistaken for power
I turn my hearing aids nearly off when i run a saw that im not tuning so it sounds pretty quiet to me. The difference is in the low to mid range response...and i think it will be easier to tune in now even though it is louder.

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"sometimes noise is mistaken for power"

+2. Without timed cuts and controlled testing before and after opening up a muffler there is no way to know if it helped or not?

It's the same thing as making "seat of the pants" assessments of bolt on engine modifications to a vehicle. I've been at that game for over 40 years and in not one single instance have a found an improvement bolting on an intake, carburetor, loud mufflers, bug-zapping distributor or anything else and saw an improvement at the track back to back testing.

Case in point, although not chainsaw related, but how this deal really works. On several private drag strip rentals I've carried every intake that will fit under the hood of my car and tested them back to back, logged all the results and made comparisons. I did the same testing with spacers under the carb.

The intakes tested were Edebrock Performer, RPM, Torker 1, Torker II, Holley Street Dominator and Tomahawk. The spacers tested were 4 hole, fully open, fully divided and semi-open (between the secondaries only).

After making as many runs as I could get in and changing intakes when the smoke cleared and dust settled the factory cast iron intake was the quickest in ET, so it made the most power in the loaded RPM range. The Tomahawk ran the highest MPH but down considerably in 60' and short times, so it left "soft" and made a little more top end charge but LESS average power.

With spacers ALL of them ran SLOWER in ET than no spacer at all. The 4 hole and open spacers were complete "turds", but the semi-divided ran more MPH than the others so did make more top end power. Even so no spacer at all ran the quickest in ET so made the most average power in the loaded RPM range.

No comes the real kicker to a long and boring story. IF anyone were to drive my car with any of the single plane intakes on them and do a "seat of the pants" assessment of power improvements you would lay down you next 3 pay checks betting that they would run much quicker at the track than the stock iron intake. Those single plane intakes produce a very strong and noticeable "rush" of power in the upper mid-range and top end that we evaluate as a major improvement in power. In contrast the strong/smooth "locomotive" power curve produced by the factory intake is lackluster and boring. It just pulls hard everyplace, but no "rush" of power anyplace. So essentially the "butt-meter" is highly inaccurate for making assessments when it comes to power production.

So, when we are cutting massive holes in chainsaw mufflers, or MIG welding on multiple exhaust pipes, porting the piss out of them, and just about everything else to improve power, more times than not you aren't helping them anyplace, and if you are the only way to know is to do some controlled and accurate testing to find out one way or the other. The exceptions to this will be recent production saws with CAT's or very restrictive mufflers designed to help them meet EPA requirements. For the older pre-emission stuff most have adequate exhaust flow and opening them typically just makes double hearing protection required more than anything else........FWIW......Cliff
 
Those 272's were a hellofasaw in their day. One of the very best. Stock. That thing must be freakin' loud now!

looks cool tho.

that bar is way too long for that little saw. Looks cool tho.

whatever.
 
Those 272's were a hellofasaw in their day. One of the very best. Stock. That thing must be freakin' loud now!

looks cool tho.

that bar is way too long for that little saw. Looks cool tho.

whatever.
Its not alot louder, there is a noticeable "crack" to the exhaust note but i went with dual 5/8 vs the more common dual 3/4 which would have been a bit excessive and probably past the point of diminishing returns.

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