MS391 scored piston while milling

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I would say 75% of saws I see with a roached piston are from gas related issues (strait or thin mix) or a dull chain.
The less than sharp chain "gets" alot of people because the concept can be confusing, but a dull chain will smoke the most professional and expensive saw.
You should be afraid that if your hand accidentally slips and hits a stationary chain you might require stitches.
yeah, mine was dull

whats your favorite way of gettin them sharp? I either freehand file or use a clamp on file jig (The one that clamps to the file), had better results from the jig, but a pain to get the chain super sharp (Probably took an hour)

I guess keep it sharp, touch it up every slab/tank of fuel would be best
 
yeah, mine was dull

whats your favorite way of gettin them sharp? I either freehand file or use a clamp on file jig (The one that clamps to the file), had better results from the jig, but a pain to get the chain super sharp (Probably took an hour)

I guess keep it sharp, touch it up every slab/tank of fuel would be best
Depends on what your cutting but yeah, going over the chain frequently is needed.
 
been doing poplar, ive got a big oak to mill up, new piston gets here tomorrow, gonna sand the cylinder (it isnt too bad)

had a good excuse to polish the exhaust port, and probably gonna do a muffler mod (drill a hole and add a tube opposite the stock one so while we are milling the exhaust goes up and away, instead of crowding on the ground)
 
Go easy on her in the oak, I mill with my 394xp pushing a 36" bar, (normally average 32" or less of cut width) it works well but does need an easy steady hand wile feeding it not to over work the saw. I'll normally make 3 passes if making 8' or 10' board and go over the chain. Give the saw a bit of idle time in between cuts to help cool her down some.
 
Yes ,I used a 395xp for white oak and chestnut oak , about every 3 passes sharpen the chain ,for me.
I free hand file but whatever gets you results will do , filing is time consuming and hard work when your hot, saws hot, and your swinging around boards ,but you'll save your saw in the long run.
 
anyone know if a muffler mod is a good/bad idea for milling? I imagine the saw will need a turn, but should run cooler (Can dump the hot air from the exhaust faster)
 
I would say 75% of saws I see with a roached piston are from gas related issues (strait or thin mix) or a dull chain.
The less than sharp chain "gets" alot of people because the concept can be confusing, but a dull chain will smoke the most professional and expensive saw.
You should be afraid that if your hand accidentally slips and hits a stationary chain you might require stitches.
Always wear gloves when filing, your knuckles will thank you.
 
dang, this blew up

we want to build a bandsaw, but money and property wont allow for one right now (We are moving in the near ish future, and we have nowhere to put a bandsaw mill)
im gonna see about updating out mix to 32:1, and a re tune
 
Guys you do realize 30wt oil was the standard 2 stroke oil before dedicated mix oil came about, right?
Yes...when the saws were not built as tight, and didn't run as fast or as hot

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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