MS391 scored piston while milling

[mountainlake]

Yes you want to richen it until it falls off, 4 strokes, then a touch leaner, it should smooth out in the cut. If you go leaner you make great power but it burns up

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Chainsaws make the most power with enough fuel and run at the right RPM, too lean you'll get more RPM but they bog easy. Steve

 

[GeorgiaVol]

I learned to tune using a couple cheap saws.
Hard to explain, but if you listen, you can hear it "4 stroke" then get smoother when it is under a load.

 

[sean donato]

Not to poke fun or anything, but this was inevitable with the saw your using in the mill. It's not a super durable saw for demanding use to begin with. Running more oil will only help so much. I'd personally highly think about bumping up to a larger pro model saw, when money allows.

 

[ZinTrees]

thats what I told my dad when he got the mill

we are getting a 661 for it at some point, im probably gonna get myself a 462 soon ish but he isnt gonna be milling with any of my saws lol

 

[GeorgiaVol]

I want a mill to help make a poll barn.
Gathering the equipment needed now even though I don't need it until I find that perfect next homestead.

 

[ZinTrees]

I want a mill to help make a poll barn.
Gathering the equipment needed now even though I don't need it until I find that perfect next homestead.

is it gonna be just the posts your milling or siding?

if its just the posts, an alaskan mill is the way to go, if your doing siding or anything extra, id say find a cheap used bandsaw mill on craigslist or facebook marketplace, and sell it when your done

mill some slabs, walnut or oak, 2" thick, atleast 20" wide if you can, and 12ft long, they go for a few thousand each

 

[GeorgiaVol]

is it gonna be just the posts your milling or siding?

if its just the posts, an alaskan mill is the way to go, if your doing siding or anything extra, id say find a cheap used bandsaw mill on craigslist or facebook marketplace, and sell it when your done

mill some slabs, walnut or oak, 2" thick, atleast 20" wide if you can, and 12ft long, they go for a few thousand each

Mostly just post.
The Alaskan mill is what I was looking at. Nothing too fancy.
Trees aren't too big around here. I doubt I mill one over 20" in diam.

 

[ZinTrees]

then yeah, get a 36" alaskan mill, and put your biggest saw on it

should work out well for you, there are a few companies that make some cheaper mills, although the granberg one is the nicest I know of

 

[HumBurner]

OK, Here is my opinion. Milling and cutting wood is similar, but a bit different. Milling is generally at full throttle for minutes at a time. This generates a lot of heat. Especially with modern saws, already set lean. Normal wood cutting is usually full throttle but not for extended lengths of times. As mentioned with milling the heat generated literally saturates the entire cylinder. The heat is your enemy. How do we get rid of the heat? Richen the mixture and add more lubrication. As mentioned with my 041, the saw was used with 30 weight oil for years at what ratio I have no idea but the dealer mentioned 16/20 -1.Yes this is a lot of oil buy todays standards. The 041 cylinder fins were caked with saw dust, but the saw showed no signs of any over heating issues. What I am trying to say is richen it up and run say 32/1. I would make a bet that your saw will thank you for this. In my personal opinion 50/1 is the very bare minimum. The EPA doesn't care about your equipment. In all my saws I run 32/1 Amsoil. Never had a overheating or oil related issue

Please clarify. Are you saying they ran 30 weight as engine oil or as bar oil?

I'm intrigued that a saw would even run if used as engine oil.

If bar oil, I'm confused as to how it relates to the debris you are referring to.

 

[ZinTrees]

Please clarify. Are you saying they ran 30 weight as engine oil or as bar oil?

I'm intrigued that a saw would even run if used as engine oil.

If bar oil, I'm confused as to how it relates to the debris you are referring to.

I can see engine oil working, although oil and gas dont go well together, 2 stroke oil is different

I would still run normal 30 weight oil in an old saw, it would work alright I think (Try at your own risk, im not responsible for anyone following my advice)

 

[HumBurner]

Yea, it seems like they would separate out in the tank.

Considering it's designed to circulate longer and break down slower (or, combust at a higher temperature.)

But I don't know much about the older saws.....

Like I said, I'm intrigued.

 

[ZinTrees]

I use gas to clean grease off stuff, I imagine it would dissolve normal oil, but then again, I dont really know


maybe we can get Project Farm on youtube to do a test, im sure he would if he had the time

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Oh goodie! An oil thread!

 

[sean donato]

Guys you do realize 30wt oil was the standard 2 stroke oil before dedicated mix oil came about, right?

 

[Gord404]

Not to poke fun or anything, but this was inevitable with the saw your using in the mill. It's not a super durable saw for demanding use to begin with. Running more oil will only help so much. I'd personally highly think about bumping up to a larger pro model saw, when money allows.

Thinking the same thing.

 

[ZinTrees]

Guys you do realize 30wt oil was the standard 2 stroke oil before dedicated mix oil came about, right?

 

[Mad Professor]

Unless your only milling pecker poles and squaring them up/making 2 X 4"s that's asking too much of a 391.

 

[blsnelling]

For milling, I would be running 32:1 and rich enough that it 4-strokes with the slightest lightening of load.

 

[ZinTrees]

Unless your only milling pecker poles and squaring them up/making 2 X 4"s that's asking too much of a 391.

well, we are milling with what we got, gonna get a 661 soon

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I would say 75% of saws I see with a roached piston are from gas related issues (strait or thin mix) or a dull chain.
The less than sharp chain "gets" alot of people because the concept can be confusing, but a dull chain will smoke the most professional and expensive saw.
You should be afraid that if your hand accidentally slips and hits a stationary chain you might require stitches.