3/8LP vs 325 follow-up questions

[lamby66]

Hello Everyone,
our homeowners association has a 20" Stihl 271 that is used for general maintenance but primarily to cut down shrubs around our lake. It is currently running 325 26RS81 chains and the chain gets trashed quickly due to bouncing off of rocks dirt etc.

I am wondering if it would be advantageous to get a 3/8" bar and sprocket and start running 3/8LP chain. There has been posts on here that state the 3/8 and 3/8LP can not be interchanged (see i used the search button ;-) ). That does not make sense to me as the drive links are the same, or slightly shallower for the LP chain. Since the current bar and sprocket are trashed now would be the time to convert it if need be.

The reasons I am thinking this would be beneficial are:
1) chains are cheaper
2) the saw is maxed out with the 20" bar and I figured the smaller chain would cut faster.

what do you guys think

 

[Franny K]

per cutter often .325 is often less expense.

Can you get into the Stihl mini spline drive on a ms 271?

 

[lamby66]

per cutter often .325 is often less expense.

Can you get into the Stihl mini spline drive on a ms 271?

I think so, it has a spur on it now, but there is a 3/8 rim sprocket drive option I have seen.

I guess on a followup, would a 325 narrow kerf be an even better option? again, this is mostly for shrubs and bushes.

 

[Mad Professor]

Hello Everyone,
our homeowners association has a 20" Stihl 271 that is used for general maintenance but primarily to cut down shrubs around our lake. It is currently running 325 26RS81 chains and the chain gets trashed quickly due to bouncing off of rocks dirt etc.

I am wondering if it would be advantageous to get a 3/8" bar and sprocket and start running 3/8LP chain. There has been posts on here that state the 3/8 and 3/8LP can not be interchanged (see i used the search button ;-) ). That does not make sense to me as the drive links are the same, or slightly shallower for the LP chain. Since the current bar and sprocket are trashed now would be the time to convert it if need be.

The reasons I am thinking this would be beneficial are:
1) chains are cheaper
2) the saw is maxed out with the 20" bar and I figured the smaller chain would cut faster.

what do you guys think

Try to run 3/8 lp on 3/8 bars and sprockets has been beaten to death on the milling forum . IT DON'T WORK!!!!

 

[lamby66]

Try to run 3/8 lp on 3/8 bars and sprockets has been beaten to death on the milling forum . IT DON'T WORK!!!!

Well, I dont want to reinvent a failure so I guess I will let this idea die

 

[cookies]

put a much shorter bar on that saw, like a 16" to help reduce grounding the chain and they are cheaper... A pole saw would be even better for hedges and bush removal to keep you out of them LOL!

 

[Franny K]

I guess on a followup, would a 325 narrow kerf be an even better option? again, this is mostly for shrubs and bushes.

I would say the .325 Nk would be a better choice, not sure what drive link count would be but Stihl has some very nice 3690 code .325 nk. And Upstart .325 seems to be a copy of the normal kerf .325 for cheap and wider kerf when binding is encountered.

If you have a bar code starting with 3003 an 3/8 lp set up is probably not a stock item. You need the mini spline for picco rim sprockets, at least the ones commonly available.

 

[Mad Professor]

put a much shorter bar on that saw, like a 16" to help reduce grounding the chain and they are cheaper... A pole saw would be even better for hedges and bush removal to keep you out of them LOL!

Just learn not to turf the chain, then expecting it to keep cutting. I've used longer bar bars just for reach, it's nice not to be bending over all day, but turfing them is the same result.

 

[PV Hiker]

Hello Everyone,
our homeowners association has a 20" Stihl 271 that is used for general maintenance but primarily to cut down shrubs around our lake. It is currently running 325 26RS81 chains and the chain gets trashed quickly due to bouncing off of rocks dirt etc.

Any chain is going to suffer with this kind of abuse. Maybe some training and education, or even the user that caused it should file the chain. I'm sure they might be more careful not cutting rocks and soil after bringing a chain back to life. Could save you money in the long run down the road.

 

[Mad Professor]

Just learn not to turf the chain, then expecting it to keep cutting. I've used longer bar bars just for reach, it's nice not to be bending over all day, but turfing them is the same result.

Addendum, Save your crap: chains, sprockets, bars......for "stumpinig"!

 

[lamby66]

I am well aware of the fact that the rocks and dirt are causing the chain wear. Never disputed that, just looking for the cheapest option for replacing said distroyed chains.. Also the time associated with filling chains does not justify the time associated with it when you are paying help by the hour (just use cheap disposable chains)

I am also not the one doing this work, I was just asked by a member of the environmental committee to look at the saw.

I do like the idea of the pole saw and maybe a brush cutter straight shaft trimmer with the replacement heads would be worth the money (I know Ryobi makes one and I am sure others do as well.. I will recommend that to the committee.

I did suggest a try of some 26RM style chains over the RS chains they are using now. The damaged Stihl chains we do have would be worth fixing and saving for trees but the 8ten Chinese ones... Nope



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[82F100SWB]

A) Keep your chain out of the dirt.
B) Your application will be much better served by RM than RS
C) Your saw will pull full-size 3/8 on a decent sized bar. LP has even smaller cutters than .325, and will dull even easier.

 

[Philbert]

If they trash the current chains, they will trash any replacement chains, so stick with the standard ones, which are usually easier to find.

For ‘disposable’ chains, you ought to find cheap ones on line for under $10 a piece, if you buy several at a time, which it sounds like you may need.

Many places will sharpen a chain for $7, which is even less.

Philbert

 

[holeycow]

IDK, but it seems to me that I can sharpen a short chain in about the same time as changing it. Unless it is "rocked", that is.

PS, keep your chain out of the dirt. Did someone mention that already? Lol.

 

[lamby66]

Again, this is not me, bit after looking at the dull chains, they are beyond rocked.. some are chipped where 1/2 would need to cut away..

I am not talking dirt I am talking rip rap sized rocks here [emoji1787] chains don't cut so good after attempting to cut granite.

I think I convinced the environmental committee to get a echo pas system brush cutter pole saw unit.

The brush cutter would fare better in this environment.

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[holeycow]

the blade will still get destroyed if the operators have no skill, or don't give a rat's ass

 

[Clyde85]

In my honest opinion education of the operators would likely be the most beneficial.

 

[Mad Professor]

I think the main problem lies in your hired help carelessly trashing things.

Everybody hits a rock now and then but cutting on a rock is moronic.

 

[Philbert]

I have volunteered with several disaster response volunteer groups for many years. The words ‘disaster’, and ‘volunteer’, are key, along with shared equipment, which always gets treated worse than personally old equipment of any kind.

As not-for-profit groups, with limited resources, and my personal distaste for waste, I learned how to salvage many chains that others would routinely throw out.

A lot of that is detailed in this thread, where I offered a challenge that 'most' damaged or messed up chains could be salvaged with some knowledge, the right tools, and a bit of effort:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
An occasional missing tooth is not a deal killer; there are lots of skip tooth chains out there, and odd numbered loops with extra spaces. Or, 2 damaged chains can be combined to make one, good chain, for a couple of bucks in small parts.

As you are unlikely to be motivated to get a grinder, and to learn how to use it, you might still find someone who will save those chains for you, for a reasonable cost.

Philbert

 

[SawTrash]

For cutting down smallish shrubs at ground level with rocks close by I use a battery powered reciprocating saw. Carbide tipped blades are available too.